ADAMGAMZ! JEFFTSAI! this one's for you guys...
10-03-08, 10:21 AM
#16
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i was always told by a friend who lived in japan for awhile, that back during the war, to drive their economy, the government imposed a tax on vehicles, that basically increased every year. i forget if he said it was just a yearly thing, or if it also went by mileage. but essentially, after x number of years/miles, the tax is so high, its actually cheaper to buy a new car, rather than keep the old one.
i too have seen quite a few sludged JDM motors in my time. apparently if your not gonna have it for very long, no sense in changing the oil. i mean for me, ever since i could drive, ive taken car of my cars, even if they were POS's, i cant imagine not doing it on a new car.
i too have seen quite a few sludged JDM motors in my time. apparently if your not gonna have it for very long, no sense in changing the oil. i mean for me, ever since i could drive, ive taken car of my cars, even if they were POS's, i cant imagine not doing it on a new car.
10-03-08, 10:30 AM
#17
Interesting...lol. I guess it was just an urban myth spawned so all the engine pullers could sell the engine and have a reason why it came with 40k miles. Or is there a year limit on how long you can have that car before the tax rasies higher? Also if you think of it, how long does it take to get a car to 40k miles in Japan? It's not a very big place so I imagine that would take a bit of time. Then again, do people in Japan not take care of their engines? I have seen so many heavily sludged up "JDM" engines it's not even funny.
The owners of Japan...I dunno. Some over insanely **** about their car to the point its unbelievable. some just dont care.
i was always told by a friend who lived in japan for awhile, that back during the war, to drive their economy, the government imposed a tax on vehicles, that basically increased every year. i forget if he said it was just a yearly thing, or if it also went by mileage. but essentially, after x number of years/miles, the tax is so high, its actually cheaper to buy a new car, rather than keep the old one.
i too have seen quite a few sludged JDM motors in my time. apparently if your not gonna have it for very long, no sense in changing the oil. i mean for me, ever since i could drive, ive taken car of my cars, even if they were POS's, i cant imagine not doing it on a new car.
i too have seen quite a few sludged JDM motors in my time. apparently if your not gonna have it for very long, no sense in changing the oil. i mean for me, ever since i could drive, ive taken car of my cars, even if they were POS's, i cant imagine not doing it on a new car.
10-22-08, 01:01 PM
#20
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It's not as straight forward as Jeff puts it for a 2JZ-GTE VVT-I. It's a lot easier than a non-VVT-I though. Also if you do the swap run the JDM ecu, as the USDM GE one will cause your car to run extremely rich, even more so than the JDM one which is pretty bad already. If you do a full swap just make sure you run a compression test before you put the motor in. Save you a lot of headache if the motor is bad. I warn you there is a lot of fabrication into this swap and that cost money because of the labor. I could of bought my GS300 over for the price the swap costed me.
My motor is from Japan and my compression test turned out Superb.
My motor is from Japan and my compression test turned out Superb.
10-23-08, 08:26 AM
#21
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compression test is one thing, but i strongly urge everyone to pull the oil pan off and inspect the main and rod bearings also. my motor tested perfectly fine on compression, however all 7 main bearings were spun. my motor was sludged pretty bad, and not checking it basically ruined a ton of other stuff. it doesnt take much to do other than some basic tools. also check the ECU's you get with the swap, mine was a big pile of corrosion on the inside. case looked fine, inside was not. luckily i wasnt planning on using it though.
11-22-08, 06:31 AM
#23
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It's not as straight forward as Jeff puts it for a 2JZ-GTE VVT-I. It's a lot easier than a non-VVT-I though. Also if you do the swap run the JDM ecu, as the USDM GE one will cause your car to run extremely rich, even more so than the JDM one which is pretty bad already. If you do a full swap just make sure you run a compression test before you put the motor in. Save you a lot of headache if the motor is bad. I warn you there is a lot of fabrication into this swap and that cost money because of the labor. I could of bought my GS300 over for the price the swap costed me.
My motor is from Japan and my compression test turned out Superb.
My motor is from Japan and my compression test turned out Superb.
11-22-08, 08:40 AM
#24
Yes.....you are. Great, informative threads and a sweet build. Good luck!! (are you using Titan for parts?)
Did anyone respond regarding placing a USDM 2JZGTE opposed to the JDM? Wouldn't the USDM cause less headaches and be pass emissions easier?
Did anyone respond regarding placing a USDM 2JZGTE opposed to the JDM? Wouldn't the USDM cause less headaches and be pass emissions easier?
12-01-08, 06:56 AM
#26
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I did my swap in under 8 hours. There is little to no fabrication involved if you get the correct parts. Get a Front Clip not just a motor, trany and harness. Get the aristo drive shaft as you will need part of it and you are on your way. All the parts from the front clip will bolt right in. I fabricated a return line and modified the fuel pump housing to accept it and the car was running.
You will no longer have traction controle but I always turned that off any way. You will have to make one modification to the harnes to get the tach to work and that is it.
This is not Rocket Science and anyone with a good understanding of motor swaps should be able to pull it off in two to three days.
Ben
You will no longer have traction controle but I always turned that off any way. You will have to make one modification to the harnes to get the tach to work and that is it.
This is not Rocket Science and anyone with a good understanding of motor swaps should be able to pull it off in two to three days.
Ben
12-05-08, 07:51 PM
#28
They have just been sandblasted,I had mine done before I did my swap and they look brand new. You have to be careful about the electronics on the throttle though, make sure everything is taped off very well.
Who's everybody? Lol...
Who's everybody? Lol...
Last edited by macd7919; 12-05-08 at 07:58 PM.
12-06-08, 08:17 AM
#29
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nobody said that was their goal, we're just discussing the pros and cons of which swap (vvti or non vvti).
i said personally i'd probably just swap it in and leave it alone because i dont have a ton of money to build it out, but others may be using it as a base and build from there.
i dont even think i'm going the swap route anymore haha looks like it's gonna be NA-T for me.
i said personally i'd probably just swap it in and leave it alone because i dont have a ton of money to build it out, but others may be using it as a base and build from there.
i dont even think i'm going the swap route anymore haha looks like it's gonna be NA-T for me.
01-05-09, 02:23 PM
#30
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compression test is one thing, but i strongly urge everyone to pull the oil pan off and inspect the main and rod bearings also. my motor tested perfectly fine on compression, however all 7 main bearings were spun. my motor was sludged pretty bad, and not checking it basically ruined a ton of other stuff. it doesnt take much to do other than some basic tools. also check the ECU's you get with the swap, mine was a big pile of corrosion on the inside. case looked fine, inside was not. luckily i wasnt planning on using it though.
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