For those that did this already...how much did you pay for the install and where was the shop? Thanks

 

Most people that paid someone to installed their headers paid around $500 and up. I read someone even paid close to a Grand for install
It's not that hard to do, I did mine my self with a little help from my Dad. I guess I should tell you we did it on a lift at his shop I guess my post didn't help you out much ether

Shop around, like I said there not that hard to install and $500 is a fair price, but if you find someone that will do it cheaper, jump on it.

 

Assuming it takes about 4 hours with a labor rate of ~$60/hr for most shop, it should be around 240 for the install.

 

Yeah, but most shops go by mitchell

 

ah i forgot about on-demand. I guess most shop use it to increase revenue

Most of the mechanics I know will do it judging by how long it really takes, and not by the book.

 

Very helpful guys...I have contacted a lot of shops and I'm getting CRAZY quotes! When they look into it on their computer the first words out of their mouth are..."WOW, they (the book) show over 12 hrs+ of labor to replace these!?" Now, 12 hrs at a $70/hr rate is a minimum of $840! JESUS, if I can find a shop that will definitely install these damn things for $500 I will get these things done like yesterday! But for almost another $500 on top of that makes me cringe.

Anyone else with header install experience on the GS400?

 

yeah....me! $300 for the first install and then $700 to remove from my 98 and put on my 99 and reinstall stock on 98! still a good deal! Everyone thinks you have to pull the motor out! NOT TRUE! you can do them from underneath! a few more tips!

1. buy new manifold gaskets from the dealer for the install. The ones they send are not the best and stock is much better!

2. check your driver's side motor mount before you go. they have to remove this anyway so if you need one just go ahead and get it too!

3. Get new donut gaskets for the top and bottom of your converters. These also have to be removed and are most likely not any good!

4. let the shop that does the install know that they will need to sand down the top of your converters a slight bit so there won't be any exhaust leaks!

5. You will need new nuts and bolts for the top of the converters where they connect to the headers. when you get the stock ones off you will see what i'm talking about!

6. after they do the install let them know you will be back in a week or so just to check the bolts to the heads. sometimes these need to be tightened after the car gets hot and cools a few times!

7. order headers beacuse they take like 4-5 weeks to get!

 

Thanks for the tip...and I will.lol

 

wow, labor rate is pretty cheap out there. here, it's about $95/hr. when these first came out, avg labor were about 10hrs for shop that have never done it. if you find an experience shop it should be approx. 5hrs. i shall attempt to do my own to fix my leak.

 

I guess the reason why labor is so cheap out in socal is that you literally have thousands of shops to choose from. Competition is fierce so the only way to compete is to offer low labor rate.

 

If you currently have S&S headers, they are easy to remove. The hard part is taking the stock ones off.

 

I paid about $375 for my install but the shop said that if they did them again they would charge more because they were a pain. Before the install I had them look at the headers and my car so that they know what they were getting into.

It took them almost six hours and that was mostly because they had trouble getting the O2 sensor out of the driver side stock header. They said that it was cross threaded.

Did you pick up a RMM S/C

 

God damn Gill. You always get the great deals!

 

7. order headers from ME! [/QUOTE]



-u sell SS headers? i was looking to purchase these after i buy new rims but im kinda sketchy on buying them cuz it seems like they always crack . .
why do u guys run ss headers when they break all the time ? but im still interested .. .. but wanted more info . ..

 

What a bizarre post.

Most of the 1st design headers eventually crack and need to be re-welded. At this point S&S has honored every legitimate warranty request I am aware of. The 2nd design headers have thicker tubing and more welding and AFAIK have not had cracking issues.

The reason people use these headers is because they make POWER. If you want a bone stock reliable car you should never modify your car. Your "rims" could cause suspension problems but that doesnt stop people from running larger than factory engineered wheel and tire combinations.

Back on topic, as pointed out most shops that do NOT know how to do this work simply check the flat rate book which dictates removing the engine for manifold replacement. This is NOT needed or desired. Find a capable person with a lift and good wrenching skills. I would think $500 would be the common charge. As pointed out above the HARDEST part is removing the stock manifolds due to the heat shields blocking fastener access. Once the S&S parts are installed any future removal if necessary is much easier than the stock parts.