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Maybe what you hear is not the Blow off valve. It may be compressor surge and your BOV isn't working properly. That would make your RPM jump.
Can you explain a little more? It definitly sounds like my BOV. Another thing i might add, i'm not getting any black smoke from my exhaust, so i guess thats a good sign.
I edited right away, i didnt change anything in the post, i just added.
Quick update:
I removed the supercharger belt and removed one of the intercooler pipes and the car runs perfect. I own a mechanic shop, and the injectors are fine. What do you guys have your e-manage set at?
You changed tuned to untuned.
Every car is different so we cant just tell you the settings. First of all, get a wideband so you can start tuning it. No point in pushing buttons around if you dont know the a/f ratio.
Stay out of 100% duty cycle. We dont want the injectors to stick open now do we?
Do you know how to use the imanage?
the first button you set is for when the FMU kicks in.
All the other buttons will have a calculated boost table depending on your setting for the first button.
This is where you need a wideband.
Press the second button. It will show you the duty cycle it was set at for the boost pressure on the screen to the right of that. Make it a bit rich first. Drive your car to hit that boost number and watch your a/f gauge. Just raise/lower the duty cycle to correct the A/F. Do the same for the rest of the buttons.
Another thing,
Since we're all thinking that i'm running too rich, why would i be pre-detonating?
You might set the 8lbs to 100% But what about the rest of the settings?
You say you hear the sound at around 5lbs right? So what % did you set at around the 5lbs area?
Setting 100% at 8lbs will not automatically scale the duty cycle for you.. You need to set it individually for each button.
You might set the 8lbs to 100% But what about the rest of the settings?
You say you hear the sound at around 5lbs right? So what % did you set at around the 5lbs area?
Setting 100% at 8lbs will not automatically scale the duty cycle for you.. You need to set it individually for each button.
yea, i did that. Actually when you put in the 100% duty cycle, my unit automatically sets the rest of the duty cycle's accordingly, mathematically breaking down every duty cycle from 1-8lb's
Every car is different so we cant just tell you the settings. First of all, get a wideband so you can start tuning it. No point in pushing buttons around if you dont know the a/f ratio.
Stay out of 100% duty cycle. We dont want the injectors to stick open now do we?
Do you know how to use the imanage?
the first button you set is for when the FMU kicks in.
All the other buttons will have a calculated boost table depending on your setting for the first button.
This is where you need a wideband.
Press the second button. It will show you the duty cycle it was set at for the boost pressure on the screen to the right of that. Make it a bit rich first. Drive your car to hit that boost number and watch your a/f gauge. Just raise/lower the duty cycle to correct the A/F. Do the same for the rest of the buttons.
understood....thanks for the clearer, simpler explanation. Thanks alot. I'll find out tomorrow, a local tuner shop I do alot of favors for is going to put it on the dyno and on his wideband tomorrow and we'll tune it accordingly, but i really dont think this is the problem.
Just let us know what happens after you get it tuned. 11.5 a/f is what you should be after.
K, i will, tomorrow afternoon, but honestly, i don't think this is the problem, it has to be something else. The car was running perfect until yesterday, my alternator went. I replaced the alternator and left to the meet in long island yesterday, and thats when this all started. I honestly thought it was compression issues until i bypassed the supercharger today. This is driving me nuts, seriously. I dont think i'm predetonating since i am running rich. Here's what i'm sure of so far...
1. car runs perfect w/o supercharger
2. engine is fine
3. no CEL(which is what's bugging me out)
K, i will, tomorrow afternoon, but honestly, i don't think this is the problem, it has to be something else. The car was running perfect until yesterday, my alternator went. I replaced the alternator and left to the meet in long island yesterday, and thats when this all started. I honestly thought it was compression issues until i bypassed the supercharger today. This is driving me nuts, seriously. I dont think i'm predetonating since i am running rich. Here's what i'm sure of so far...
1. car runs perfect w/o supercharger
2. engine is fine
3. no CEL(which is what's bugging me out)
I would look at what Rising-Sun said about your BOV. Check and see on the dial screw how it is set. You can loosen/tighten it with the screw. This could very well be your problem.
When you put it on the dyno tomorrow, remove your front bumper. Slip a balloon or condom over the BOV opening. Drive it to those rpm range. If your bov is leaking, it'll blow up the balloon.
Johnny, the newer HKS ssqv bov doesnt have adjustment nut.
When you put it on the dyno tomorrow, remove your front bumper. Slip a balloon or condom over the BOV opening. Drive it to those rpm range. If your bov is leaking, it'll blow up the balloon.
Johnny, the newer HKS ssqv bov doesnt have adjustment nut.
This my man is why you are installing my next FI kit
When you put it on the dyno tomorrow, remove your front bumper. Slip a balloon or condom over the BOV opening. Drive it to those rpm range. If your bov is leaking, it'll blow up the balloon.
Johnny, the newer HKS ssqv bov doesnt have adjustment nut.
When you put it on the dyno tomorrow, remove your front bumper. Slip a balloon or condom over the BOV opening. Drive it to those rpm range. If your bov is leaking, it'll blow up the balloon.
Johnny, the newer HKS ssqv bov doesnt have adjustment nut.
hmm, possibly, but again it feels like my car is bouncing off of a rev limiter at 4800 rpm's. I'm going to pull my battery also and reset my ecu too. Another thing i realized today, the "putt-ing" starts at like 3000 rpm's and takes a mild break until about 4200 rpm's which is where it starts to get bad. Then at 4800 rpms i lose power as if i'm bouncing off the limiter. It seems almost as if the longer i hold the car at 4800rpm's, the more the rpm's jump when i let go of the gas. e.g today after i put my supercharger belt back on i was riding the car a little longer than usualy at 4800 rpms +-- 5.9lbs of boost and when i let go of the gas, it jumped to about 5100 rpms.
Thanks for everyone's help thus far guys, i really appreciate you guys going out of your ways. Really gives the family feeling, seriously
happened in my turbo prelude, and gave similar symptons, where it felt like i'd hit a rev limiter and lost power, turned out to be a torn vaccum hose. plugged it up and problem solved.
hmm, possibly, but again it feels like my car is bouncing off of a rev limiter at 4800 rpm's. I'm going to pull my battery also and reset my ecu too. Another thing i realized today, the "putt-ing" starts at like 3000 rpm's and takes a mild break until about 4200 rpm's which is where it starts to get bad. Then at 4800 rpms i lose power as if i'm bouncing off the limiter. It seems almost as if the longer i hold the car at 4800rpm's, the more the rpm's jump when i let go of the gas. e.g today after i put my supercharger belt back on i was riding the car a little longer than usualy at 4800 rpms +-- 5.9lbs of boost and when i let go of the gas, it jumped to about 5100 rpms.
Thanks for everyone's help thus far guys, i really appreciate you guys going out of your ways. Really gives the family feeling, seriously
Just curious, what is your long fuel trim? Sorry if I missed all the details, what is the set up again? Injectors? pump? etc?
JPI
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