Bags herer is the photo I mentioned.

The car really kicks at 3K the only thinkg is with the way the boost comes on I would hate to have boost kick in while in a curve, that would definiely equal a trip sideways.

Lex I am hopeful that it is plummed correctly, a compression test was done and #5 was low, they squirted some oil in that cyllinder and low and behold it got better. So it sounds like rings to me too. its just bad timing though financially speaking.

I am thinking of either buying a used engine or rebuildingn this one with a headgasket like y0ou up it to 15psi and call it a day.

 

jWhat do you mean do something with the TB to block air from going to the crank?

 

Thanks and if you want ANY pics hosted, let me know. I can handle up to 300mb pics and up to 30 of them .. just email them to me

You should not have positive pressure going to your crankcase.

Is that what your talking about lextreme?

 

Morris.... if oil helps the compression.. then u know its the rings. Its time for some forged pistons and Total Seal Rings. Get an extra engine and build that up first and once its ready you can just swap it out. That way there will be no down time.

TB:
Step 7 Throttle Body: Since your car was originally intend for natural aspirated, you will need to modified your throttle body (TB) just a little. You will need to uninstall you TB. I have taken out my TB about four times now and I think I know how to do it right. Please follow the following steps.

1. Disconnect all the Intake accessories

2. Disconnect the throttle body cables.

3. Disconnect the radiator hose that goes to the TB (around 3/8")

4. Loosen the top two screws (12 mm) and loose the bottom two screws. You will need a socket extension on the bottom screws. BE CAREFUL DO NOT DROP THE BOTTOM SCREWS. IF YOU DROP IT, THEN YOU ARE REALLY SCREWED.

5. There is a (tube) outlet from the left side of the TB to the right head about 3/8" to 1/2". You need to plug up the tube on the TB by using an end cap with a clamp. That tube is going to the oil compartment. If you do not plug it up, you will get a lot of blow by and loose power too.

6. Reinstall the TB after you have done the above steps. Remember, DO NOT DROP THE BOTTOMS SCREWS.

 

I'm thinking more that the smoke is due to restriction in the oil return line from the turbo. Usually, a turbo(s) is mounted high enough that gravity will take control and help evacuate the oil back into the pan sufficently. Morris, it looks like the oil return line from your turbo is almost horizontal and rather small. When I first saw the initial pictures you posted I was hoping that there was a sump pump for the return oil plumbed in there somewhere. May want to have the guys at the shop check into that for you.

 

1UZFE tend to have high oil pressure and the smoke can cause by the small oil return. I think 10 -AN is too small and u should upgrade it to 14 -AN. Only Earl's have 14 -AN. I also installed a turbo oil cooler and that will also restriction some oil pressure. However, lost of compression and blow by is bad news.....

 

Thanks guys there have been lots of good informationo while I have been gone. I will start checking things out as soon as I finish eating breakfast.

 

I'm pretty convinced that the rings are the problem but Lex out of curiosity, is this the tube you are talking about, it is on my right side while in front of the car. What is it, a vacume from the oil pan or what?

 

All of the return lines are -10 and that is the way it has been. BTW, the inline lines supposed to be a -3. Never heard anyone using a -14.

 

use a restrictor... atpturbo.com sells them, then no more worries about a huge drain line

 

JPI check your PM

 

JPI,

LOL>>>>>. U know what i mean. Oil restrictor will limit the oil going in the turbo and might starve your turbo. Just get a huge return line with minimum sharp turns.

 

Well I didnt want to leave this thread hanging. The car went into the shop this week, the engine has already been pulled stripped down and sent out to the machine shop. For those of you that have been looking at the low compression ross pistons that have been discussed. You should know that they may be for the earlier 1uz which has a different head and hence different valve placement, which of course means that valve relief on the piston dome is incorrect. So before you go and purchase a set make sure they are for your car with the proper dome area for our heads. I almost found out the hard way but thanks to an honest Clublexus vendor I didnt make that mistake. If everything goes right I should have the car back no later than July 6th but we all know how often every goes right

 

Wow Morris, thanks for the update - sounds like major work happening on your GS - looking forward to hearing how your studly GS performs when it's all buttoned up again!

Did you see that fully race built GS400 transmission on the classifieds? I saw that it's sold and was wondering if you'd bought it.

 

Nope it wasnt me, I got mine rebuilt a few months back.