I am looking into an oil cooler since it is one of the only things I haven't done for my high power build. There are so many options from 10 to 50 rows. One's with filter relocation or same with sandwich adapter. Line sizes, thermostatic operation etc. I don't want to overspend or oversize. I like the sound of thermostated for the winter and -10AN lines. I do have a high volume oil pump installed, so it should feed the system well. But what is overkill? Ideally I'd like to keep it simple. Thermostated sandwich adapter, filter in same location, -10AN lines to the cooler (thinking 15-20 row?) and mounted in the fender well where the windshield washer bottle use to be. I have always run pretty cheap stuff from Amazon/ebay for coolers with good results. But trusting a cheap thermostat unit is scary. I suppose one would have to buck of for a brand like Mishimoto to have peace of mind? Any suggestions on a affordable decent quality kit?

 

Also can anyone verify that the oil filter adapter thread size is 3/4" -16unf for the 2jz? I am considering a Mishimoto thermostat plate and customizing the rest of the setup.

 

Not really answering your questions but wanted to put this out there. In my opinion the first step in getting an oil cooler is actually diagnosing your oil is overheating. There's a good chance your temps will be fine, depending on how you use the car. So I'd say get an oil temp gauge (gonna want one anyways before installing an oil cooler), drive the car, and see what your temps are. Only then if it turns out you need lower temps, look into a cooler. There's many downsides to running an oil cooler: cost, complexity, weight, but most of all reliability. So many extra failure points that can cause you oil pressure loss or a fire, both can be catastrophic for your engine or even the entire car. So only run one if you really have to. Just my 2cts.

 

I am usually of that mindset as well, but in this case I was considering that the engine went from stock and naturally aspired to boosted, with bigger cams (thus rpm increase), and around a 350% increase in end goal power. Inherently there will be a great deal of heat generated with a full throttle pull. All I have have done is a slightly larger 2 core aluminum radiator for engine cooling. My gut tells my this should be done as well. If it will protect the engine internals, it's worth it right? I did spend a lot of money on a rebuild and forged rods/pistons, valve springs etc.

 

Well, you are not going to hurt anything if you keep an eye on temps and back off before it gets too hot. Then install a cooler if it turns out that you need it. Will also give you a better sense on how big to go, based on your observed rate of temperature increase/cooldown.

I have nothing useful to add to your original questions unfortunately. Except that you should definitely get one with a good thermostat. You do not want to overcool in any situation and end up with issues getting up to operating temp.

Also keep in mind that a cooler will lower your oil pressure, so it's very important to piece something together that minimizes pressure drop by having a free flowing oil cooler core, big enough lines etc. If you are not logging oil pressure you absolutely have to get this right.

 

Very true, I’ll have to an oil temp and pressure sensor in first and monitor it before making the decision then. Thanks for the insight. Sound suggestions

 

Oil temps should hover around 100c to burn off any condensation in the oil.
If your oil temp is not able to return to 100c quickly after a few pulls then you will need an oil cooler.
Oil will start to lose its effectiveness to lubricate at certain temps, oil temps too high will also affect oil pressure.
If it's too high for long periods of time then your bearings are at risk of failure as the oil is no longer able to support the load.
Higher quality full synthetic oils will handle more heat before it breaks down from the heat cycles.

Quality oil cooler and the lines used will also need to be considered as it could affect your oil pressure.
Rule of thumb is 10psi/1k RPM
Log and review your oil temp / pressure before and after the cooler mod to see it's effectiveness.

 

What you should do is run a heavier weight oil to protect everything since your power output has jumped substantially. I would run a 10w40 if you are fairly easy on it, and a 20w50 if your planning on running it hard. It doesn’t hurt anything for the oil to get hot. As long as the coolant doesn’t start steaming out the overflow or anything. If that happens you’ll want to get a better radiator, faster cooling fans etc. the best thing you can do with your vehicle is to keep combustion chamber temps down, so lower IAT’s, even with a FMIC you should look at adding a methanol kit, and also run E85 whenever you’re going to be pushing it. This will ensure that the engine has a long lifespan and performs its best when you want it to.

 

I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil in 10w40. I won't be tracking the car or anything like that, just spirited driving and hard pulls from time to time. I'm not seeing high temps yet, but I am still going easy on it. Engine is still freshly rebuilt, new twin clutch, new LSD in the rear. Lots to break in. I am mostly interested in an oil cooler because I like to be "overbuilt" wherever possible. I'd rather have the cooling capacity before I find myself in need of it. Who knows how hard it may be pushed in the near future. Mishimoto makes a 200* option for their thermostatic sandwich adapter which would allow the oil to heat up for regular street use.

 

You’re running VR1 in your car? Are you running cats? That oil can cause problems if it’s run in most modern engines, I don’t know enough about the 2JZ’s to be sure, but if your running the factory camshafts then you don’t want to run VR1. It’s got ZDDP or something like that in it that protects an old flat tapper cam but it can cause problems otherwise, I guess if your running E85 at all times you might want to, but I am just guessing. How come you decided to run this oil and not just some heavy duty Mobile1?

 

I'm mainly running the VR1 because the machinist who bored and built my block said to run it. That was good enough for me. Not sure what all his reasons are, but it is a good thick oil with additives for racing abuse. The 2jz is still a flat tappet cam and not really modern besides the VVT sprocket/solenoid, so the zinc package is supposed to be helpful. And I am catless of course. My engine has JE pistons w/ total seal rings, and bigger cams etc. Several changes from OEM. He said it is what to use for break in and continued use.