Oil Bypass Filter?
So, with all the recent talk about oil filters, I actually learned quite a lot more than I expected. Things like there are times that your filter could be almost completely bypassed. Never new such a thing was possible.
Then I started looking at Diesels (I know, why? LOL). What I learned from them was 70% of wear of their engines come from contaminants 5 microns and larger.
The best Fram filter I can buy is rated at >20 microns. And thats at the filters peak efficiency which we agreed is NOT when the filter is new.
So that means that there is still a lot of damaging particals running around free as a bird.
What did the truckers do? They used a second high efficiency filter that filters down to 2 microns. The oil remains clean and is regularly tested. Most time, the only requirement is an annual filter change for them. The oil itself is still within specs.
So, thats what I'm thinking....
"Amsoil" seems to make a good, reliable well tested unit. But its large because of the 2 micron filter.
And I have to locate an available port for the bypass filter for oil supply and return since it is separate from the normal oil flow path. I can't believe that as many 3UZ engines are out there, that those ports haven't already been identified.
OR, I could build a portable unit with a 12v oil transfer pump. Insert a tube to suck it out the dipstick (i.e. down to the pan bottom) and send it back to the top of the engine after its filtered. I could even modify an oil cap with a tube. Running it once week for a half hour is probably all that would be needed. One 2 micron filter could last years. You could mount it to your garage wall. Roll up your lines when your done.
Anyone else looked into this?
Paul
Then I started looking at Diesels (I know, why? LOL). What I learned from them was 70% of wear of their engines come from contaminants 5 microns and larger.
The best Fram filter I can buy is rated at >20 microns. And thats at the filters peak efficiency which we agreed is NOT when the filter is new.
So that means that there is still a lot of damaging particals running around free as a bird.
What did the truckers do? They used a second high efficiency filter that filters down to 2 microns. The oil remains clean and is regularly tested. Most time, the only requirement is an annual filter change for them. The oil itself is still within specs.
So, thats what I'm thinking....
"Amsoil" seems to make a good, reliable well tested unit. But its large because of the 2 micron filter.
And I have to locate an available port for the bypass filter for oil supply and return since it is separate from the normal oil flow path. I can't believe that as many 3UZ engines are out there, that those ports haven't already been identified.
OR, I could build a portable unit with a 12v oil transfer pump. Insert a tube to suck it out the dipstick (i.e. down to the pan bottom) and send it back to the top of the engine after its filtered. I could even modify an oil cap with a tube. Running it once week for a half hour is probably all that would be needed. One 2 micron filter could last years. You could mount it to your garage wall. Roll up your lines when your done.
Anyone else looked into this?
Paul
There's another company called "Frantz". Filters oil down to 1 micron using essentially toilet paper. Wayyy old school. Racers in the 70's used a similar setup. Replacement filter is also wayyyy cheaper than the Amsoil.
External pump, suck out the old oil and send it back to the engine or to a clean container for reuse on your next oil change. Or in another vehicle that uses the same oil type. I bet with just a little planning, you could almost eliminate having to buy oil for years to come. Heck, with a little planning and a couple of quick disconnects, you could even make it invisible. Use it on any car or vehicle.. Use, recycle, replace. How come this isn't a bigger thing? I think Im going to start a company. 😁 Im calling it the "Oil Base". Patent and copyright pending.😎
Paul
External pump, suck out the old oil and send it back to the engine or to a clean container for reuse on your next oil change. Or in another vehicle that uses the same oil type. I bet with just a little planning, you could almost eliminate having to buy oil for years to come. Heck, with a little planning and a couple of quick disconnects, you could even make it invisible. Use it on any car or vehicle.. Use, recycle, replace. How come this isn't a bigger thing? I think Im going to start a company. 😁 Im calling it the "Oil Base". Patent and copyright pending.😎
Paul
Last edited by Raven01750; Feb 21, 2022 at 03:08 PM.
Unless you are driving an extraordinary amount of miles, or racing, a bypass filter seems like overkill. For ordinary use, our SC engines are known to last 350K+ without a bypass filter. The engine will likely outlive other components of the car, especially the electronics.
Unless you are driving an extraordinary amount of miles, or racing, a bypass filter seems like overkill. For ordinary use, our SC engines are known to last 350K+ without a bypass filter. The engine will likely outlive other components of the car, especially the electronics.
Paul
I don't think I would ever do what you are proposing, but I have to admit I've done things others might think me a bit off for doing, so....Just thinking out loud here:
Oil going into the filter should be like on the car at say 2000RPM - maybe 25PSI. Then in car it gets squeezed down at the crank journals where it might well rise to be over 100 PSI. After exiting the journals it's done it's job so the oil is free to fall back to the pan with essentially zero pressure.
In your system you will have to have a pump that can maintain 25PSI on the inlet and (maybe?) put a smaller outlet size pipe out of the filter housing to keep pressure up in the filter and get the whole filter engaged in the process.
Edit: and while I'm thinking about it, might want to research chemicals that go into toilet paper (if you went that route). What would things like fabric softener that they use to make paper soft do in oil?
Oil going into the filter should be like on the car at say 2000RPM - maybe 25PSI. Then in car it gets squeezed down at the crank journals where it might well rise to be over 100 PSI. After exiting the journals it's done it's job so the oil is free to fall back to the pan with essentially zero pressure.
In your system you will have to have a pump that can maintain 25PSI on the inlet and (maybe?) put a smaller outlet size pipe out of the filter housing to keep pressure up in the filter and get the whole filter engaged in the process.
Edit: and while I'm thinking about it, might want to research chemicals that go into toilet paper (if you went that route). What would things like fabric softener that they use to make paper soft do in oil?
All good points. The only problem with this setup is all of the oil bypass systems I have researched use a restrictor to greatly reduce flow. Both cellulose or synthetic fiber type filter media. I imagine it is due to the density of the filter medium. Too high of pressure would quickly destroy it. And hydrostatic pressure can build quickly.
I'm also looking at a sandwhich adapter or filter relocation setup on the car.
At this point, I'm ecstatic to have found the larger oil filter with the Fram XG3600. A lot more confident in its ability to protect the engine. But every time I change my oil, it is Indian Ink BLACK. Watching the number of videos in the last day mainly about the soot in diesel engjnes, and what a bypass filter can do for them, I would love to have the added protection on my car too.
But I fully acknowledge that diesel fuel is more likely to produce soot. Its a dirtier fuel. And more so if the vehicle needs maintenance.
So, we should experience much less of that type of contamination and my experiment is overkill. LOL. I have seen commercial setups for like auto garages etc. But I would never need that type of capacity.
Theres so many ways to do it though. Mount a filter on the wall, mount a catch container above it that can be pressurized. Pancake compressor. Pour dirty oil in. Come back the next day to clean oil in a container.
Paul
I'm also looking at a sandwhich adapter or filter relocation setup on the car.
At this point, I'm ecstatic to have found the larger oil filter with the Fram XG3600. A lot more confident in its ability to protect the engine. But every time I change my oil, it is Indian Ink BLACK. Watching the number of videos in the last day mainly about the soot in diesel engjnes, and what a bypass filter can do for them, I would love to have the added protection on my car too.
But I fully acknowledge that diesel fuel is more likely to produce soot. Its a dirtier fuel. And more so if the vehicle needs maintenance.
So, we should experience much less of that type of contamination and my experiment is overkill. LOL. I have seen commercial setups for like auto garages etc. But I would never need that type of capacity.
Theres so many ways to do it though. Mount a filter on the wall, mount a catch container above it that can be pressurized. Pancake compressor. Pour dirty oil in. Come back the next day to clean oil in a container.
Paul
Last edited by Raven01750; Feb 21, 2022 at 10:25 PM.
Trending Topics
Yes Sir. I saw that too. Supposedly great for removing water from oil. It would depend on conditions where you live of course.
Not having to much luck in the research department either. We have very little room to mount a full blown bypass system. AND it seems even the best filters are passing 5 micron plus size particles anyway.
so, a point was made by one of the companies that makes the bypass filter, that if you dont take care of the intake air first, it was a wasre of time.
So I switched to researching air filters. Pitiful is pretty discriptive. Keeps chunks out. Thats about it.
I'm looking at our airbox now. It has more than enough cfm in its stock form. Probably 400 cfm at 6000 rpm. Thats as far as I've gotten so far for anything "car" mounted.
Theres still the in house option that should be explored though. Oil cost and waste are a factor no matter how you look at it. The price we pay for an oil change is supply and demand as always. But, it also includes oil recycle programs instituted to keep people from dumping their oil down the street drains.
If demand went down because we had a cheap simple way to recycle our own oil would be major. They want to put in electrical charging stations all over but not attack a real problem. I get it. No preaching. But if I had a garage, I would tinker and who knows, with a little research and self education, I can get in on Web3.0 early. LOL.
Paul
Not having to much luck in the research department either. We have very little room to mount a full blown bypass system. AND it seems even the best filters are passing 5 micron plus size particles anyway.
so, a point was made by one of the companies that makes the bypass filter, that if you dont take care of the intake air first, it was a wasre of time.
So I switched to researching air filters. Pitiful is pretty discriptive. Keeps chunks out. Thats about it.
I'm looking at our airbox now. It has more than enough cfm in its stock form. Probably 400 cfm at 6000 rpm. Thats as far as I've gotten so far for anything "car" mounted.
Theres still the in house option that should be explored though. Oil cost and waste are a factor no matter how you look at it. The price we pay for an oil change is supply and demand as always. But, it also includes oil recycle programs instituted to keep people from dumping their oil down the street drains.
If demand went down because we had a cheap simple way to recycle our own oil would be major. They want to put in electrical charging stations all over but not attack a real problem. I get it. No preaching. But if I had a garage, I would tinker and who knows, with a little research and self education, I can get in on Web3.0 early. LOL.
Paul
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
YODAONE
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
16
Dec 6, 2021 03:42 PM









