Need help! Code P1127
05-09-15, 02:45 PM
#1
Need help! Code P1127
I'm getting code P1127- ECTS Actuator Power Source Circuit Malfunction. 1998 SC300
Can anyone tell me if this is because of a bad Throttle Position Sensor?
Or could this be something else electronic in the throttle body that controls the throttle? I didn't see any switch or electronics connected to the gas pedal at all.
The car now has no throttle until I push the pedal down about half way, then it engages and hesitates and goes up and down. Before this happened, the throttle stopped working once when I was on the highway and coasted to almost a stop. Just stayed at idle with no reaction when I put the pedal to the floor. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back in. Ran normal back to my house about a half mile, then the next time I started it, it started the no reaction/hesitation problem.
This is what I found on a Google search:
- Faulty Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Actuator
- Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Actuator harness is open or shorted
- Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Actuator circuit poor electrical connection
Battery positive voltage is supplied to terminal +BM of the Engine Control Module (ECM) even once when the ignition switch is OFF for the electric Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) control system.
If the P1127 code is stored, the ECM shuts down the power for the ETCS motor and the magnetic clutch, and the ETCS valve is fully closed by the return spring.
However, the opening angle of the ETCS valve can be controlled by the accelerator pedal through the ETCS cable.
This is all I could find on a search of the site:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ease-help.html
This post says throttle sensor. Is that the TPS/Throttle Position Sensor?????
Can anyone tell me if this is because of a bad Throttle Position Sensor?
Or could this be something else electronic in the throttle body that controls the throttle? I didn't see any switch or electronics connected to the gas pedal at all.
The car now has no throttle until I push the pedal down about half way, then it engages and hesitates and goes up and down. Before this happened, the throttle stopped working once when I was on the highway and coasted to almost a stop. Just stayed at idle with no reaction when I put the pedal to the floor. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back in. Ran normal back to my house about a half mile, then the next time I started it, it started the no reaction/hesitation problem.
This is what I found on a Google search:
- Faulty Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Actuator
- Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Actuator harness is open or shorted
- Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Actuator circuit poor electrical connection
Battery positive voltage is supplied to terminal +BM of the Engine Control Module (ECM) even once when the ignition switch is OFF for the electric Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) control system.
If the P1127 code is stored, the ECM shuts down the power for the ETCS motor and the magnetic clutch, and the ETCS valve is fully closed by the return spring.
However, the opening angle of the ETCS valve can be controlled by the accelerator pedal through the ETCS cable.
This is all I could find on a search of the site:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ease-help.html
This post says throttle sensor. Is that the TPS/Throttle Position Sensor?????
Last edited by SpadedOne; 07-19-15 at 07:35 AM.
09-28-16, 04:30 AM
#4
My son hit a pot hole, my 1998 SC300 engine light and the Trac off light turned ON. The accelerator pedal does not respond. I plugged in an ODBII, it shows a P2117 code too. I already checked the ECTS fuse (15amp), it looks good.
Were you able to fix the issue? Please share resolution.
Thanks in advance.
Were you able to fix the issue? Please share resolution.
Thanks in advance.
09-28-16, 08:42 AM
#5
My son hit a pot hole, my 1998 SC300 engine light and the Trac off light turned ON. The accelerator pedal does not respond. I plugged in an ODBII, it shows a P2117 code too. I already checked the ECTS fuse (15amp), it looks good.
Were you able to fix the issue? Please share resolution.
Thanks in advance.
Were you able to fix the issue? Please share resolution.
Thanks in advance.
There are 3 parts that could potentially be bad when the accelerator stops responding on a vvt-i engine. The throttle lever assembly (APPS sensor) (most common), the throttle motor, or throttle position sensor (rarely goes bad).
On my car, I had code P1121, and replacing the throttle lever fixed my problems. As these cars age and the amount of heat it is exposed to in the engine bay will cause the sensor to be out of spec and malfunction without warning. Sometimes if you shut off the car it'll run for a little longer once the circuit cools down. The sensor was about $300 + tax from a local dealer, and it is a straight forward install once you remove the y-pipe from the intake manifold. You should be able to find the sensor cheaper online if you have time to wait for it to ship. You could also try finding a 2nd gen GS300 or IS300 at the junkyard and pull the entire assembly.
09-30-16, 08:49 AM
#6
P2117 or P1127?
There are 3 parts that could potentially be bad when the accelerator stops responding on a vvt-i engine. The throttle lever assembly (APPS sensor) (most common), the throttle motor, or throttle position sensor (rarely goes bad).
On my car, I had code P1121, and replacing the throttle lever fixed my problems. As these cars age and the amount of heat it is exposed to in the engine bay will cause the sensor to be out of spec and malfunction without warning. Sometimes if you shut off the car it'll run for a little longer once the circuit cools down. The sensor was about $300 + tax from a local dealer, and it is a straight forward install once you remove the y-pipe from the intake manifold. You should be able to find the sensor cheaper online if you have time to wait for it to ship. You could also try finding a 2nd gen GS300 or IS300 at the junkyard and pull the entire assembly.
There are 3 parts that could potentially be bad when the accelerator stops responding on a vvt-i engine. The throttle lever assembly (APPS sensor) (most common), the throttle motor, or throttle position sensor (rarely goes bad).
On my car, I had code P1121, and replacing the throttle lever fixed my problems. As these cars age and the amount of heat it is exposed to in the engine bay will cause the sensor to be out of spec and malfunction without warning. Sometimes if you shut off the car it'll run for a little longer once the circuit cools down. The sensor was about $300 + tax from a local dealer, and it is a straight forward install once you remove the y-pipe from the intake manifold. You should be able to find the sensor cheaper online if you have time to wait for it to ship. You could also try finding a 2nd gen GS300 or IS300 at the junkyard and pull the entire assembly.
10-12-16, 09:41 AM
#7
For the P1127 code, I found below but need help
- check ETCS fuse if GOOD (which i already did),
- check the voltage between the +BM of ECM and body ground. can somebody further elaborate this step or if you have done this.
Thanks in advance.
- check ETCS fuse if GOOD (which i already did),
- check the voltage between the +BM of ECM and body ground. can somebody further elaborate this step or if you have done this.
Thanks in advance.
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03-06-18, 05:40 AM
#10
New parts.
Yes, it is lowered.
I will try to eyeball the wiring in the fender and let you know.
07-30-21, 09:57 AM
#11
08-02-21, 12:01 PM
#12
After 4 yrs, I finally had the chance to check on it.thank you @Blkexcoupe . See the pics of damage. I temporary put a bridge wire to test. The check engine is gone. Any suggestion how to repair it - solder and electrical tape etc...?
08-03-21, 06:48 AM
#13
There is a very detailed thread on how to reroute these harnesses to get them out of the wheel well. Considering the amount of damage you may want to find a donor car and just rob the two or three individual harnesses making this up. But, otherwise yeah just splice with solder, heat shrink, etc.
Do you happen to know if I can re-use the stock springs with the Bilstein instead of going with the TT Supra springs?
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