ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Hello,

Replaced my engine with a Chase/Aristo GE from Japan and my original US motor had this plug at the base of the block under the timing tensioner. It appears the connector for it is on the harness next to the alternator. It has two wires. The actual thing/plug that goes into the block is a cylindrical. The new engine doesn't even have the socket. Any ideas what it is? Not sure if this is what's causing the check engine light.

Also the last picture - any ideas what this is ? We think it came off the JDM engine and the same sockets on my engine had a different plug so we swapped them. Not 100% sure though.

Old block:


New block (Aristo/Chaser JDM?)


Unrelated unknown wire?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

moved to maintenance.
well the years would have been helpfull at least of your block.
that is the second crank sensor which is mounted on the oil pump for detecting misfires on 96+ 2jzge motors.
you can change the oil pumps while the motors are out of the car and install your old oil pump and crank sensor onto the new motor, as it looks like you probably got a 92-95 motor if it does not have the crank sensor, or it is possible none of the JDM 92-97 came with it as it was an emissions thing but I am not sure. I know all vvti will have the crank sensor on the oil pump.

you can possibly run your motor with it unplugged temporarily as the main ecu uses the crank sensor in the distributor to run the motor, but it will throw a Check engine light for it not being there/reading right. but you really want to fix it before it goes in the car you cant really do the oil pump in car unless you are special.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Wow what a b***.

We just got the motor in Monday and got it running yesterday. Can't believe I'm going to have to take it apart again for this. The problem is not being able to pass smog because of the check engine light. I have the old sensor plugged into the socket and the CE light is still on, but that could be a different issue, not sure yet.

Anyway to fool the sensor with a resistor or something? To swap the oil pump I'll have to take the newly sealed pan and the DS harmonic balancer omg
!!!!###*#*!!!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah just plugging in the sensor isn't going to work, there should be the 36 something tooth wheel on the crank and the oil pump that matches it. IF the sensor isn't reading the wheel spinning past it at the right times well then its going to trip the CEL. There is no way to fix this other than swapping out the oil pumps, sorry but it sounds like your easiest bet is to pull the motor, it is not a resistor sort of thing if I showed you how accurate the waveform from that sensor needs to be you would be suprised.

the stock crank sensors on TT's and in the dsitributor have 12/24 teeth or resolution, and the on in there is 36 teeth specifically missing some to be extra accurate just to detect a slight change in rpm, and triggering a misfire condition in the ecu. There is no way to fool it that I know of unless you want to create a custom external crank trigger setup, but that is not easy or recommended for this type of thing.

Yeah, you will have to remove the newly sealed pan and the harmonic balancer, and while you are at it you might as well get a new oil pump if the funds allow unless the old one was good to go.

you sure you checked behind the alternator for it because you can't really see the spot in the picture of the new motor.
On another note if you run a 96 or 97 2jzgte USDM ecu, you wouldn't need that extra sensor and it would be setup for turbo tune, are you na-t?

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Found this thread on the same topic (just didn't know what to look for).
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...nsor-ring.html

Man I'm in for some work.

Thanks Ali.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

got your PM, yeah I wish it was better news or you had noticed it before it went in but its not something everyone knows about. good news is that you can drive it like that just fine I think maybe get a little worse mpg, but bad news is the CEL will stay on. good luck let us know how it goes.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

There may be a way to do the oil pan and oil pump from underneath but I want to say it involves the subframe and lifting things and working in a tight area, everyone recommends pulling it but maybe something you can look into and decide.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Yeah man, not fun. Drop the subframe, etc. just replaced the oil pan on my 400. 2j won't be different

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Ok, strangest thing (sort of). I replaced the air filter and the CEL went away. The knock sensor is still plugged in just tied to the frame.

Maybe I'm good for now, just hope there's not an actual need for that knock sensor to work and do what it's supposed to. Maybe I'll still do it someday.

ugh. Thanks guys.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, I spoke too soon on my last post and I don't want to give anyone false info. Within an hour of the light going off it came back on again and has remained on. Ij just forgot to update this post. The CEL should remain on as long as the signal from the trigger isn't being detected.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

This morning I was driving and the CEL started flashing for about 3-4 minutes. Soon as I slowed down it stopped. The car was running fine, A/F ratios were normal and no apparent misfire / poor performance or smells.

Do you think it's the unplugged crank sensor acting up? Why start now?

Maybe there were multiple codes from the bad IACV valve I replaced and now the crankshaft sensor CEL was able to display itself.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

well if you had multiple codes before and now you just have the 1 it could have to do with that. I would pull the codes again to see if there are any temp ones stored, and if its just the sensor then its most likely that.
maybe it wont do it if you just unplug it completely, I wouldn't leave the second crank sensor hanging out in the bay it will just pick up erratic signals and noise on the ground line. the ecu would probably prefer to see no signal.

apsykes

first one looks like a spot for a crank sensor

that thing with the vac line look like it goes on the upper intake manifold section...

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

iirc the flashing means something about exh temps or cat temp, something along that line. wanna say egr, but honestly can't remember, but it's directly related. If you check the codes, you'll have a misfire code for every cylinder. I fixed a customer's car where the PO had done the timing belt and was unaware that there was a retainer for the trigger wheel, pulled the trigger wheel off to replace the crank seal, and snapped off one of the teeth. No matter what, the misfire codes were there, it would flash intermittently as you describe, park for awhile then just stay lit. After replacing the trigger wheel all was good. Car never showed any signs of running bad, but like Ali says, customer said he seemed to think it might be getting better fuel mileage. Which leads me to believe that it might be possible that the ecu is dumping a little extra fuel making the cats unhappy. My customer drover the car for at least a year like this, and after fixing, car passed inspection with no hiccups, so I assume there wasn't any long term damage.