Sup2jzgte

I searched but I could not find anything on here, but I might have missed it. Is there a DIY for changing the Front Main Seal and Cam seals? On Monday I will be replacing my Timing Belt, Tensioner, Pulley's, Water Pump and Thermostat. I would like to change the Front seals and Cam seals because they are leaking but I cant find info on how to.

I have Alldata but there is no helpful info on changing either gasket. Also I'm not sure if this is correct or not but from reading on other forums I keep reading that alot of people still have a leaking FMS even after changing it........is this something you guys have heard of?

My car is 97 SC300 with 175,000 miles on it with a 2JZGE

bomexlex

http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/95tsrm.rar

Here...now you can do anything!

bomexlex

once you get the crank pulley off(holding the timing belt) you will see the FMS. U can tape a screw driver end and pry it out from the middle(dont scratch anything) or cut off the lip. When u put on the new one grease the innerlip and dont put anything on the outside. It's an extremely tight fit and you're supposed to have a special tool to hammer it in until it's FLUSH with the oil pump. I didnt have the tool so i used a piece of wood and did each side slowly and evenly, going around the seal, hitting the end or the wood with a hammer.

same thing with the cam seals. I didnt have the tool to hold the timing pulleys in place to take them off so i took off the valve covers and held the hexagon portion of the cams while my friend loosened the pulley bolt. You can replace the valve cover gaskets at the same time if you want, don't forget the FIPG from toyota.

gl sir

Sup2jzgte

Thank you for the help...............honestly the only thing I fear is throwing my car out of timing.

Ok so let me make sure I have this right.

-Line up the crank pulley with the 0 mark on the case

-Line Up the cam gears with the marks on the case (straight up)

-Use a crank puller tool to hold the crank pulley steady, then beat the hell out of the crank bolt to get it off lol.

If that correct?

So if I remove the cam gears how do I make sure the timing stays?

bomexlex

I did my timing belt on the 2jzgte so it may be different, im not sure. most importantly is to get the crank pully to the 0 mark and when u do this your timing pulleys should be aligned to the very top. Do all your seals, water pump etc. You're gonna have to take off the tensioner and the idler pulley?(i think thats what its called) to get to the water pump. and then once thats all done make sure your crank is still at the highest position (TDC 0 )...theres a marker on the pulley holding the timing belt as well. Install the idler(?) pulley, put the timing belt on the bottom teeth, slide on the guard(curved side facing out), install the little timing belt holder on the bottom right. now the the mark is still aligned to TDC 0 i put on the timing belt cover, crank pulley and crank pulley bolt torqued to about 240ft.lbs. Now when i did mine i aligned the cam pulleys stright up at the marks but when i put the tensioner on it pulled the belt so tight that the pulleys slid back one notch. I had to take off the belt from timing pulleys and move the matching line one notch forward. I reinstalled the tensioner and it lined up perfect. now that the timing belt is in, turn the crank two full rotations and the timing marks should all match up. ... If they dont the repair manual says take everything apart and do it again.

Thats how i did mine, maybe someone else has an easier way.

also cam pulleys should be torqued to 59ft.lbs if i remember correctly.

motorheaddown

I suggest using the crank pulley bolt and a flanged piece of PVC piping that fits over the snout of the crankshaft to install the FMS. Then, you can screw the crank pulley bolt in which applies equal, continous pressure on the seal. It works great, and there's no risk of damaging the seal.

-scott

Sup2jzgte

AWESOME, thank you very much this a huge help. The thing that I'm thrilled about is the fact that this engine is a noninterference system so if the timing is wrong I will just have to correct it and not have to worry about bent valves. Why the 2 full rotations?

Thank you for the pointer, that is what I will be doing

bomexlex

2 rotations because after one rotation the timing pulley mark will be facing the ground. One more rotation and it should be back at the top.

It'll all make more sense once u start to tackle it


gl again

91dx

I'm bumping this thread because the car I just purchased from a forum member has developed a massive oil leak. The car has a 2jzgte swap into it, and after one day of ownership, I have oil leaking profusely leaking from what looks like the front main seal. Supposedly all the seals were replaced 15k miles ago. Either way, I have to go in and replace the front main seal. Has anyone pin pointed why it leaks? Should I go ahead and get a modified oil pump from boost logic to prevent future blow outs?