We bought an '19 NX last year with about 30k miles on it. It lived most of its life in south Ohio.

I took it to get 2 new tires and they mentioned that the existing tires were not wearing properly. So I took it to the dealer for an alignment. The dealer told me the passenger rear tire could not be adjusted because the bolt was frozen. I asked them if they tried heating it up and they said they did, but it would not budge. Told me I needed to replace the whole part at a cost of $1k.

Left there and a week later I took it to an independent shop for a 2nd opinion. They showed me that the front driver tire was out of alignment and they too could not break the bolt loose for the passenger rear wheel. They mentioned that they could not heat the bolt because there is a rubber bushing that would obviously melt and be ruined if they did that.

So, my question is, can I just drill out the bolt instead of replacing everything? Enclosing a picture to help out.

For this setting

 

You could spray the offending bolt/nut combo with a penetrating oil like Aerokroil or Tryflo. Be generous and do it often. This might help dissolve the corrosion enough that it you are able to loosen the bolt.

 

I thought about that later and ordered a can last night! I figure if salt and water can get in there, so can some penetrating oil. So I am going to do exactly what you suggested.

I appreciate your input!

 

I have similar situation - 2020 NX 55,000 miles - dealer says cannot do rear alignment due to corrosion - bolt frozen - must replace - $1,800 est. I saw a response saying to repeatedly apply penetrating oil - Does anyone know if this works? Or any other ideas? Seems ridiculous - What happens when these cars get older?? Thanks

 

I don't get it. The bolt seems to have a clean/complete head on it. Why wouldn't you be able to put an EXTRA LONG breaker bar with a socket on it to unscrew it? I mean, even if it is stubborn, so what, I would assume with enough force (using an EXTRA LONG breaker bar) that the head would just break off and then problem solved - install NEW bolt.

Otherwise, I don't see why you couldn't drill it out, as the OP suggested. Or, use a small grinding/cutting wheel to cut the head off.

Of course, I completely agree with what others have said. Try the penetrating oil, liberally, several times.

 

Wow, I'm having the same issue. Both BJs Tires and the dealer couldn't fix it.

 

I recently had alignment done on my NX and shop, while doing it, discovered exactly same issue – frozen bolt, rusted in. They cannot heat it due to rubber bushing, so they snapped the head of it, hammered the bolt out, and replaced with auto-market kit like that one below (example, see link). Done.
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co...gaAhg3EALw_wcB

 

Same problem happened to me when I did the alignment for my 2016 NX 200t last November. The mechanic could not adjust the front passanger side tire. I live in north california and the car is rust-free.

 

Something is odd about this thread. These suspension cam bolts have been used for decades and the cam washer typically fuses to the bracket within a year unless liberally coated with anti-seize compound before installation. You cannot hope to turn the bolt head because it is either welded or splined to the cam washer, which is tightly clamped to the bracket. It is like trying to rotate a brake rotor while the caliper is squeezing the pads against it.

Any decent alignment technician should understand how these work, and how to deal with them.
The first step is to loosen the nut on the other end of the bolt. Some penetrating oil may be necessary is there is visible rust on the threads. Once the nut is backed off until flush with the end of the bolt, I usually place a shallow socket on the bolt head, and a C-clamp between the socket and nut. Once the C-clamp is tight, use a hammer to whack the end of the C-clamp pressing on the nut until the bolt slides into the socket cavity. If stubborn, spray some penetrating oil where the cam washer meets the bracket, and wait for it to do its job. The cam washer on the nut side of the bracket may remain fused to the bracket after the bolt has been removed Some penetrating oil and a small blunt chisel will usually knock it off.

 

When I worked at an import auto repair shop in the snow zone, we would often get vehicles with frozen bolts. Normally, we would douse the fasteners with a heavy coat of Aerokroil, let it sit. Then douse a second heavier coat until the part dripped. Then, while the component was still wet to the touch, we would hit the bolts/nuts with a 1/2 impact gun. After a lot of noise and rattling, the fasteners usually came off. the only time we really needed to use the torch was on muffler parts. Often those components were so corroded, we simply cut the parts off or chiseled the bolt heads off. We did whatever was faster since we were paid by the job (Flat Rate), not by the hour.