it would be awesome if you had instagram or perhaps FB messenger simply bc we could share this info a lot faster.
but yes I’m the morning I’ll post a vid here. But would rather communicate some other means to be more direct- up to u, all the while I appreciate ur insight

 

Yeah I’ll get a video of it shortly. So we have fuel pressure check, perhaps coils n plugs?
What about crank/cam positioning sensors? Could those be at fault for this?

 

Also worth noting is that I just went to the junkyard and I noticed that every 3.0 I looked at the throttle body cables have about a full 120 degrees if not more turn in them. Mine only has about 70 degrees

 

So hard to phantom that a simple t-belt job is giving you this much grief.
Did it run fine before the tbelt job?
Lets go back to basics.
AIR, FUEL and SPARK is what makes any gas vehicle run.
Air is a given
Fuel i thought i saw you state you have w/ pressure on one of your posts.
Cant find it now. (what actual psi are you reading?)
Spark is all that's left, if you haven't checked fuel pressure.

Not sure what you mean on the throttle cable issue.
Even w/ the throttle cable out, it still should start and idle normally.

 

Here’s the video of me trying to start it.
It wont even start, it turns over but it doesn’t catch to actually start running.

 

Here’s what cylinder #2plug looks like

also no I have not checked fuel pressure, I just simply suggest that I should.
also yes it did before I did the timing belt job. Once I got done with the t-belt I could atleast get it to idle before sputtering out, and then we adjust the belt to be perfect and it idled for the first crank over, but now it won’t even catch to idle as shown in the video.

 

Just for kicks,
Gas pedal to the floor
Crank engine 8-10 sec with gas pedal still on the floor.
If it still doesnt start, time to check for Fuel and Spark.

 

Well, looks like you need new plugs, but I don't see how that would cause such an immediate change in starting. I had a similar issue a few years ago after a routine scheduled maintenance at the dealership. Went through all of the usual "diagnostic" routines (on my dime)! In the end, after several trips back to the dealer (and several hundred dollars of wasted parts), I threw a sh_t fit in the showroom and the gave me a loaner and kept the car for a week. Eventually traced it to the Throttle Position Sensor. Replaced that (on their dime) and no problems since.

 

here was the “lay on the gas and start” which jumped the RPMS and then made a nasty noise at the end.

 

Thats just backfiring.
Please check for fuel delivery and spark.

Or another quick check if its a fuel problem.
Spray throttle/carb cleaner through the intake/intake plenum while someone is cranking and see if it stays running.
Play with the throttle plate to give some extra air intake while spraying carb/throttle cleaner.
Dont spray too much for you might flood your plugs.

 

yes, I’ll give that try.

but also, Let me ask you this;
The guy who’s car it is, gave me the spare key/valet key I believe- from disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery and once even setting off the alarm, is it plausible that the immobilizer got tricked on?
ive read of other people having this issue and then using their main key with the programming on it and it turned right over and worked.

 

As long as the immobilizer light is NOT ON when the key is in the ignotion, it should be fine.

 

so your saying to, disconnect the “Y” piping which is also the MAF sensor & air box from the throttle body, leave that open, and then spray throttle body cleaner directly into the butterfly, or you mean the valve located just outside of the butterfly? All the while someone is cranking it over?

also worth noting is when I thought the battery was the culprit, I hooked up my battery charger directly to the battery in the car with the cables on, and my Battery charger has a “jump”feature at 12 Volts/200 AMP at engine crank, could I have blown a fuse? Before I did that I was getting idling and since then it’s just been turning over and not catching.

 

Leave all the intake hoses intact.
If you split the Y pipe, MAF wont be able to read airflow.
Remember, Air, Fuel, Spark.
You can disconnect the breather hose thats on the Y pipe and spray it thru there.
Be carefull as it may backfire thru the intake side.
Wear safety glasses.
Unless you jumped it backwards then i wouldnt worry about what you did.
Lets keep this simple and not over think it.

 

Carb/TB cleaner and not starter fluid? or it doesn’t matter?

for what it’s worth, I unbolted the fuel banjo bolt from the fuel rail and fuel was definitely under high pressure bc as I loosen it- it sprayed right into my face.
But I will have to do that check in the AM.