Thats not right at all,
There should be tons of slack once the tensioner is off.

Try putting back your old belt and see if it runs fine.
You can leave all the covers off but install the dampener and washer.
Dont worry, the belt wont walk off.

And no worries man, we'll get it.

 

Okay so I got everything off and I got everything aligned perfect with the belt back on and the tensioner in place ready to draw the grenade pin, my only issue now or concern is simply that the slack is in between the right cam, WP, & crank as oppose to the side with the tensioner, when I pull the pin and go to rotate the crank will it mess with alignment?

 

If there is slack, it shouldnt be much that i would worry.
Just pull the pin.
Then rotate the crank clockwise till no slack on the right can to wp.
Then fire her up.

 

Well Nad, I got the timing dead on perfect, and I’m still stalling after idling. The only differnce was, while I was doing the timing belt adjustments, I put the battery on the battery charger- knowing it was probably weak after all the cranking, and the first start up was really good, idle smooth and I actually shut her down however with each following start up it seemed to get worst. I’m convinced it’s this battery somehow. I don’t understand why it would affect it after starting, but it seems that way.

 

Awesome that you finally got the timing corrected.
That rules out that issue now.

So if im understanding this correctly, cold start high idle — it idles fine.
But when it gets closer to operating temps, idle just falls flat on its face and eventually dies out.

Now you suspect the battery.
Might as well have that tested too just for peace of mind.
I actually ran into that into that similar problem.
Would barely idle so i hooked up a jumper pack on the battery and drove it home fine.
Replaced the battery afterwards.

 

So, even on cold starts- like just now when I turned it over- it’ll idle smoothly for a minute or so and then soon as I put it into gear or rev it up a lil- it’ll stutter out.
Thats why I can’t imagine it being the battery? I mean I had it on the charger all night for 12+ hrs, and it started great and idle great but died out after trying to put it into gear, and with each start after the first the idling gets a lil shorter before dying out again.
Once started, & idling would that in itself rule out battery?

 

I know you mentioned cleaning the IAC valve.
Its possible its failing to the point cleaning it does free it up.

IAC is what controls idle.
Thats the only thing i can think of that would make it sputter out during idle.

 

Just got home from local oriellys n they tested battery, said it was good. I guess now I’m going to re do the idle air control valve and clean out the throttle body a lil bit more.
I noticed that the cruise control wire for the TB is a lot tighter than the accelerator wire is, should I try tightening that a bit?

 

So this is the IAC valve with the sensor removed. I noticed that I can turn it left and right about 90 degrees, but it doesn’t have any retention or spring to return itself back. So when I turn it completely 90 degrees left it stays there, I turn it by hand completely right- it stays their. Shouldn’t this part/magnet have retention to return itself?

 

Thats the way it should work.
No tension springs here.
Turning left will open the valve.
Turning right will close it.
The center pin is voltage power.
#3 wire is Ground (white wire/black tracer)
#2 is where the ECU controls it.

I suggest to leave the IAC motor off the valve.
Turn the valve left all the way (open)
Run the vehicle and see if it still sputters out.
You might have high idle since its open all the way.
If you can manually turn the valve to a desired rpm at idle, leave it there.

 

I can’t get the car to even idle now... SMH it won’t stay started after turning the key, it’ll catch but just die down right after.

However here err are my new marks.





im getting so frustrated. Those marks are freaking perfect- dead on!

im thinking about renting a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. I have no idea what the hell is wrong. No CEl- nothing else to off of.

However now it sound as if im missing a ground wire or something. Is there any that I should check?

 

Those marks are dead nuts...!

i feel you man...
That would just be crazy coincidence of you are loosing fuel pressure after a tbelt job.

Only grounds i remember are the 2 clip on ones by the mount.

 

yea I just sanded those to make better contact.
Im at a lost!

The only other thing thing I can think of is check the fuel pressure and also perhaps do new plugs and coils?
But right now I can’t even get the car to stay started, it just turns over and dies out right away! It won’t even idle anymore.
How about the throttle accelerator cable? Should I try tightening that?
almost like the motor is hydro locked.
I donno

 

UPDATE; I rechecked the timing belt and it is dead on perfect! Defiantly not the issue even tho that was the job I did before it started with issues since finishing it.
new symptoms are:
1) the car will start, turn over and catch but at a real low RPM of 400 or so before just dying out in the matter of 3 seconds. It won’t even reach idling before dying. Starter sounds strong.
2) battery has been tested and is good.
I cleaned the TB & IAC valve


Also let me ask you this, since I had to re do the belt bc of that one tooth being off, do you think that perhaps a crankshaft or camshaft positioning sensor could have went? As if they were trying to read correct positioning and couldn’t?

 

Have you pulled a plug out?
All that cranking couldve flooded the engine preventing the spark plugs to fire.
Hoping its as simple as this.
Cam/Crank sensors being bad would trip some kind of code.
These sensors are pretty robust.
FWIW, when i had my fuel pump fail, i didnt exhibit a check engine light.

Can you post a video when trying to start the vehicle?