Tools and equipment needed:
1. Toyota OEM (2) engine bushings
2. Toyota OEM (1) transmission bushings
3. Floor jack
4. Jack stands
5. 2x4 wood blocks
6. Adjustable wrench, and metric sockets (mm):10, 12, 14, 17, 18, and 22.

Raised the car using the floor jack and place all four corners in jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Make sure the car is even on all corners on jack stands. I decided to work on changing the engine mounts first.

With the 2x4 wood block on the jack's lifting point. Place them under the oil pan and lift the engine slowly until it is raised ~0.5in...


Using a 10mm socket wrench remove the bolts that holds the wire harness...


When planning on how to remove the engine bushings, I decided to remove or lower the cross member because the steering column is on the way and there is not enough space on the driver side to access the engine mount.

On the lower control arm, there is a camber adjustment bolt. Get a marker or Sharpie to mark the relationship of the bolt to the cross member so that you will not miss align the wheels when you intall everything back...

Using a 22mm socket, loosen the nut and camber bolt.

Using a 17mm socket wrench, remove one sway bar end link nut and the lower nut/bolt that holds the strut. Remove all the nuts/bolts that holds the cross member, lower engine bushings nut, and power steering rack. You are now ready to pry the cross member down through the lower control arms and you should have something like this...


Using a 17mm open/close wrench, you need to access the upper engine bushing nut. This is difficult so be patient and use your creativity without breaking other parts...



Engine bushings removed...



Common factor in abnormal vibrations, damaged engine bushings...






Install the new engine bushings...



Once the engine bushings are in place and the top bolt are tightened, you may install everything in this order: push cross member upward and hand tight the nuts, lower engine bushings nuts, power steering nuts/bolts, lower strut nut/bolts, sway bar end link nuts. Now, start tightening all the nuts/bolts.

Now, find the mark that you made on the canber bolt and align them and tighten the nuts.

Here are the engine bushings with everything installed...

 

Here are pictures of the original transmission bushing on the car squashed...



Using the 12 and 14mm sockets, remove the bolts in the middle first then the outer bolts that holds the transmission cross member...


The transmission cross member removed. Using the 12mm socket, remove the middle bolts...


Transmission bushing removed...


Old versus new transmission bushings...




Install the new transmission bushing with the protruding metal tab pointing towards the front of the car. Here is the new bushing installed...


You are now finished. Please double check everything and make sure everything is tight. Test drive the car and feel the difference.

You did a good job!

 

Very nice write-up with good pictures. You did a good job too!

//Björn

 

Hey that's some nice work! Pictures > words, great write up. Clear, clean, and easy, no mystery.

 

Garage7RP,

How many miles are on your 93LS? Those old mounts sure look pitiful!

 

Thank you!

Thank you very much! I have been following your thread too and you have done great work yourself.

 

I have about 157,XXX miles.

 

Thank you Garage7RP for making this thread!

Done.

 

great thread man!

 

told ya this would get stickied

good stuff

 

I paid $283+tax for the three mounts.

 

Wow, that's not bad. I hope I can find as low an estimate, I am not so good at this stuff.

 

wow nice man!
i think i might need to change mine soon

 

I found the OEM parts by calling http://www.oemlexusparts.com
$104 for the front (each) and $37 for the rear. Not bad. I found someone locally that will install them for $150.

Is there a way to tell if it is Tranny only or also engine? Tranny looks so easy

 

thats not a bad price...yeah the trans looks easiest lol and the engine looks like a ***** haha

what's the level of this maintenance work?