DIY Engine and Transmission Bushings Replacement
#31
Driver
iTrader: (3)
it took me 5 hours to change engine mounts. I didnt have a lift, I used jacks. It was the first time doing it. It takes time because its not easy to take off the upper nut on the drivers side. Passengers side is 100 time easier. Once I took the nut off, the mount split into 2 pieces (because it old), it was easy to take them out of there, but putting a new mount was hard, there´s no space, so you just need to figgur it out what side to squeeze it there. it was physically and mentaly hard job.
Changing rotos is easier; never dealt with distributer caps.
Changing rotos is easier; never dealt with distributer caps.
#32
Pole Position
This looks like a big job too. So you dont need to remove the power steering rack? I changed the distributer caps and rotors, spark plugs, wires....That took me a long time and i had to remove alot of components via lexls tutorial. Im just not sure if i have the skill for the mounts, how hard are they to replace compared to the distributer caps and rotors?
#33
it took me 5 hours to change engine mounts. I didnt have a lift, I used jacks. It was the first time doing it. It takes time because its not easy to take off the upper nut on the drivers side. Passengers side is 100 time easier. Once I took the nut off, the mount split into 2 pieces (because it old), it was easy to take them out of there, but putting a new mount was hard, there´s no space, so you just need to figgur it out what side to squeeze it there. it was physically and mentaly hard job.
Changing rotos is easier; never dealt with distributer caps.
Changing rotos is easier; never dealt with distributer caps.
Last edited by kuziwk; 03-20-11 at 11:43 AM.
#36
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
no not the rotors on the brakes, the distributer rotors. And if you have never done it i suggest you look into it, mine were the original as were the plug wires. I was screwing around with the car for 6 hours too changing the dist stuff... because you have to drain the coolant. this is known as a major tune up and i heard it cost's $1000 to be done. Plus i had bought new bolts to fix the engine undercover with huge washers. So did you have to remove the power steering rack from the lines, or just unbolt?
#37
huh?? than what does it use to spark the plugs, lol. Ok so i dont need to remove the power steering rack on my 92 and you guys are saying about 5 hours for the engine mounts. I did the tranny one and it took me half an hour by the time i jacked up the car. LOn a random note, oving the muffler delete, easy and free , still deciding if it makes the car less classy though.
Last edited by kuziwk; 03-20-11 at 09:35 PM.
#38
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
huh?? than what does it use to spark the plugs, lol. Ok so i dont need to remove the power steering rack on my 92 and you guys are saying about 5 hours for the engine mounts. I did the tranny one and it took me half an hour by the time i jacked up the car. LOn a random note, oving the muffler delete, easy and free , still deciding if it makes the car less classy though.
fully computer controlled, uses a coil-on-plug system with a camshaft position sensor. (and crank sensor)
#39
so after contemplating, i'm leaning towards oem mounts rather than aftermarket. i read puredrifter is steadfastly set against aftermarket when it comes to these. spoke with a few mechanics as well and they said the same. for those who used aftermarket mounts, can u prove it wrong?
#40
so after contemplating, i'm leaning towards oem mounts rather than aftermarket. i read puredrifter is steadfastly set against aftermarket when it comes to these. spoke with a few mechanics as well and they said the same. for those who used aftermarket mounts, can u prove it wrong?
#41
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus...Q5fAccessories
OEM quality, with hydralic....seems ligit to me...im buying them when i can get the money, tax return anyone??
OEM quality, with hydralic....seems ligit to me...im buying them when i can get the money, tax return anyone??
#42
Wouldn't those Ebay ones also require the metal piece, I believe they are called the engine torque damper mounts, or something like that. I know if you buy from the dealer they come with it but a lot of other places just come with the rubber mount, not the metal piece. Can you re-use the metal piece from the old mounts?
#43
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 3
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AC/heater valve
Great thread. Thanks for posting.
I have been looking through diagrams to find the AC heater valve. Can anyone describe where it is, or better yet post a pic? I'm planning on changing all three mounts this weekend and would rather not break something if it is avoidable.
Thanks - Gary
I have been looking through diagrams to find the AC heater valve. Can anyone describe where it is, or better yet post a pic? I'm planning on changing all three mounts this weekend and would rather not break something if it is avoidable.
Thanks - Gary
#44
Pole Position
Great thread. Thanks for posting.
I have been looking through diagrams to find the AC heater valve. Can anyone describe where it is, or better yet post a pic? I'm planning on changing all three mounts this weekend and would rather not break something if it is avoidable.
Thanks - Gary
I have been looking through diagrams to find the AC heater valve. Can anyone describe where it is, or better yet post a pic? I'm planning on changing all three mounts this weekend and would rather not break something if it is avoidable.
Thanks - Gary
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/cooling/coolant.html