quote:"Redlining your engine should not be done regularly, nor should it ever be done while an engine is still cold, but doing it occasionally helps get the engine beyond the normal operating temperature. This will burn off a lot of the unwanted carbon living inside the engine, effectively cleaning it out."

 

ahh my ls was babied from new to 54k miles when I got it. On other engines I have worked on i changed the oil to a partial synthetic to reseat rings. Wonder if that would work with a ls 460 motor?

 

Throughout the 90's and early 2000's I did alot of engine work mainly on the 3L in 4runners and trucks mainly due to the campaign for head gaskets/deck resurfacing and short block replacement. Most of those engines even at high mileage had crosshatch very similar to the short blocks they were replaced with. I don't think it would hurt to burn them in like a set of brake pads.

 

That has a lot more to do with the final hone grit. Modern bike engines use 600 grit stones for final finish and the cylinders look like a mirror, but the rings are designed to work with this finish and it makes more power. I haven't seen this in automobiles for street service, but I'm pretty confident the F1 guys have been doing this for a long time. There are lots of things unique to racing applications that have no place in a daily driver.

I get break-in done very quickly. It's over in 30 minutes or less, and it's been shown to ensure the rings are seated and the engine is making very good power. As I said, I used the Toyota method on the Celica and regretted it. I ended up trading that car for my first MkIV Supra in 1994 because I couldn't stand how much oil it burned.

 

100% agree, I actually had minor oil useage when I first got my 460 but a week of hard driving fixed it. You really do need to do a hard break in as early as possible when you get a new car and it's gamble when used.

 

The port guys are supposed to do that.

 

Yeah.....in theory. I always made sure on new cars to really drive them hard on the test drive if I was sure that particular car is the one I wanted, used I just pull plugs, soak the hell out of the rings in seafoam and turn it by hand 90* and resoak 4 times, then drive the HELL out of it. Has worked for me very consistently for my own cars and customer cars (mainly euro cars, BMW is the worst offender) to return oil use to near zero where it's supposed to be. I would buy a true performance car new if it's something I truly love to make sure I am the only person to ever touch it.

 

IS F and GS F were both purchased new. Both were going over 140 mph at WOT within 10 minutes of getting the keys. None of my cars have oil burning issues, not even the Supra. The key is heat cycling and progressive loading.

 

I did similar with my new cars, my used 460 and A8 were at 130 mph 5 min away from the lots lol! All engines I've rebuilt I've also broken in the same way

 

There’s an oil site that, well discusses oil, and it gets pretty technical at times. There’s a sponsor HPL (high performance lubricants), everyone is going Gaga over there for them because of their formulas and base stocks. One thing I found interesting is their appreciation for Mobil1 products...when testing oils they found that even the lowest quality Mobil1 oils blew their minds in their ability to perform very well in testing - they attribute that to be because of the size of the company and how they are able to make base stocks that usually need to be purchased from other companies. Mobil is THAT company, the company that sells their base stocks to others, and therefore is able to place higher quality base stocks into their own oils. Yet, the funny part is that Shell has now seemed to have corned the market in the GTL (gas to liquid group lll) segment, and supposedly Mobil is purchasing GTL from them in order to keep their costs down??

Who really knows what goes on with these oils, these companies and their decisions. A lot of changes take place every year, and now seemingly even more frequently than that. They all have to meet standards and approvals. But I must say I am a little intrigued by Mobil’s buying power and advantages they hold over others. As a consumer that usually is a good thing, having said that...if I’m doing 5,000 mile intervals I’m buying whatever is a name brand on sale.

 

There's that Canadian humor again! Ha.

 

Oil thread=get popcorn and watch the show 🧐😂

 

The Toyota/Exxon TGMO “says” was designed to go 10k miles. Reduces environmental damage. Versus 5k COI intervals is the $8 a quart not the same cost as cheaper oil?

 

That line of "reduce environmental damage" should be your warning, it's what I was talking about in terms of why they extended the interval. The OE is on the hook for that so the less they have to pay for the better

 

So near as I can see here no one has anything other than anecdotal information on whether any wear differences were noted at 5k or 10k intervals regardless of brand or whether TGMO is being used.

does anyone have any info of lexus service advisors advising customers to do 5k OCI? Where the cars manual says 10k?

how about an Blackstone basic test of 5 or 10k removed oil just to see how the oil was holding up?