Youre kidding me, you changed a chain on a 460? That’s a big job. Was it oil related? High mileage?

 

asking one more time. This is not a LS460 unicorn spotting chain stretch thread.

 

When people use wrong oil and/or change it at extended intervals chain stretch is just one of funny side effects. And yes, comparing suspected chain stretch case (I had at least 3 LS cases in last year alone) using oscilloscope to known good waveform (fsm or just fresh cared for LS as a source) shows pretty glaringly. Just please, use correct, light oil and replace it at sensible intervals and horrors of dealing with resealing front plate will remain just a vague internet rumor. clue - correct oil weight is indicated on your oil cap (if not - it's 0w-20, duh).

 

He is going to remove your post like he did mine. Claims it's not relevant

 

Clearly OP asked about oil brand for high mileage. Relevant or not, you went off on a tangent regarding chain stretch. Both of you are professional mechanics, so why not start a thread on chain stretch and share your experiences with the rest of us instead of having private conversations and randomly referencing them here and leaving us to guess what's going on? I'm pretty sure some of us would appreciate your knowledge and insight, no?

 

Good idea.

We've got a number of threads being taken off topic into random chain stretch discussions by the same folks and I'm trying to keep things sensible and focused on the topics being asked about.

As I've asked, let's keep this (and others) on the question being discussed, if anyone wants to chat about chain stretch start a specific thread about it and keep it there instead of the random offshoots.

 

Change it at 20k with whatever synthetic and matching filter claims it will protect that long. Lifetime of the car is 100k miles anyway so I'm sure it will function till then.

 

We all know you're just being a facetious but 20k OCI will probably still allow the car to run relatively flawlessly at 100k miles. Not sure why you're being so combative, everyone here is just asking for proof of why a 10k OCI is bad (there is no definitive proof its bad).

 

YouTube channel "car care nut" posted a video showing that its better to change oil at 5k miles interval, to avoid burning engine oil.

 

It's impossible to avoid burning engine oil. It's fundamental to oil lubricated combustion engine operation. The question is, how much, and does the rate increase with mileage as the oil breaks down into lighter hydrocarbons?

I always have a caveat for any of these oil discussions - if you don't plan to keep the car (lease, or you change cars ever 3 - 5 years), then the oil you use is inconsequential. Change it at whatever interval the dealer suggests with whatever brand they offer and be happy. The differences only show up for those of us who keep their cars 10+ years and expect to retain something close to the original performance the engine provided.

 

https://www.carscoops.com/2022/08/to...-teardown/amp/

 

it’s interesting because the video you mention has been reposted all over the internet in the last week. I like him, I like his videos, but he is also consistently trying to prove a point against people that doubt his expertise...and usually that’s a good thing because the guy is a good tech, but in this case he is taking an engine that has a service bulletin on piston ring issues. There is, I believe, a revised position for that particular engine which has larger oil ring drain ports.

Will a 5,000 mile interval prevent the oil consumption that those engines are known for?? Maybe, maybe not. We don’t know.

I do know that on my 2007 LS460 it had only 2-3 extended drain intervals performed on it by me...one to 8,000 miles (once) using Mobil 1 EP, and the others 7,000 miles using TGMO. Other than that it was ALWAYS 5,000 mile intervals using either Mobil1, NAPA synthetic. Castrol synthetic, or TGMO. Oil and filter changed every 5,000 miles...sometimes every 4,000 miles. By 110,000 miles it was consuming maybe a half quart. At 115,000 I changed my spark plugs, four or five of them were oil soaked. By 130,000 miles I had oil tracking into the intake through the air snorkel, and pooling in the intake. By 150,000 miles I was burning 1-2 quarts in 5,000 miles. By 170,000 miles I was using around a quart every 1,000 miles. And by the time I traded it in I was using sometimes a quart every 700 miles. I think my rings were stuck. Blue smoke would come out the tailpipe upon acceleration.

5,000 mile intervals didn’t save my engine from stuck rings, oil consumption or anything else. And that car was absolutely BABIED. All highway easy commuting miles, every single day. Five days a week. 500 miles per week, every single week on the dot. No CITY driving EVER. LOVED THIS CAR THOUGH!! Oh my god, such an amazing vehicle...and the oil consumption didn’t effect oerfamrice at all. In all honesty I probably could have went another 100,000 miles with it. I did try heavier weight oil at one point, it did ZERO to slow it down. I really think the rings were cooked. I probably could have tried some remedies for it but I have seen stuck rings before, and if they’re stuck, they’re stuck. You’re not freeing them, they physically have to be pullled out, as they are usually covered in carbon/soot. So, I’m not too sure 5,000 mile intervals are always the answer. I also owned a Honda that had 3,000 mile intervals it’s entire life. At 289,000 miles it was drinking a quart every 500 miles. Same thing, babied, highway miles. 3,000 mile intervals did nothing to prevent an engine from wearing out.

 

wow.. seems burning engine oil can not be avoided..
my 2009 LS460 with 117k miles burns maybe 1 quart per 5k miles now. oil change every 6k miles or less.

 

My GS F and IS F don't burn any noticeable amount of oil in their 5k oil change routines. One has 100k miles, and the other just short of 200k miles. Neither is babied. Both see WOT regularly. Failing to put a load on an engine glazes the rings and turns it into an oil burner. There is a whole lot of hammer the throttle that helps an engine's service life, not shorten it. Some engines never get broken in because the owners baby them and these engines will burn oil no matter what you do until you rebuild and break the glaze in the cylinders. I had a 1993 Celica GTS with this problem and it was the last time I ever considered using the factory break-in method.

 

Thanks for the tip.