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As mentioned check the fuel rail recall… don’t know if you had it done prior owners etc now the issue is depending on when it was done and by whom the injectors are very difficult to remove as they age plastic becomes brittle. more specifically the wire connectors on the injectors, if you are not careful it plastic part on injector will break. Connector Joins onto the metal body in a not so sturdy sort of way…pull too hard you may cause a crack and fuel will leak from there.
also have someone check the fuel return line that’s behind the engine under the windshield cowl area. If that’s loose it will cause the issue with gas smell
Last edited by jdanielca; Oct 19, 2021 at 07:52 AM.
Why not just reseal the pump? There is zero guarantee that a used pump was removed in the correct fashion.......it may leak at the same place. Salvage yard guys range from master tech skilled to guy with hammer and sawzall
When the pump is damaged in the location where his dealer suggested, the pump cannot be fixed / resealed. If I remember correctly there are warnings in the manual not to rotate that nut. It is not meant to move. The fitting in that location can be very tight. Even while using a backup wrench on the stationary nut it is difficult not to put torque on it while you break free the fitting.
Your absolutely right...
The replacement pump may leak too, hence the 30 day return window. It's worth the risk imo.
When the pump is damaged in the location where his dealer suggested, the pump cannot be fixed / resealed. If I remember correctly there are warnings in the manual not to rotate that nut. It is not meant to move. The fitting in that location can be very tight. Even while using a backup wrench on the stationary nut it is difficult not to put torque on it while you break free the fitting.
Your absolutely right...
The replacement pump may leak too, hence the 30 day return window. It's worth the risk imo.
From what I understand this is where the ops pump is leaking. ( red arrow)
Oh, I thought they moved the 19 a bit. Yeah it's best not to play with the lower one if you can avoid it, test it out and see if the new one is good. If not send it back until get one that was removed without disturbing the lower one
As mentioned check the fuel rail recall… don’t know if you had it done prior owners etc now the issue is depending on when it was done and by whom the injectors are very difficult to remove as they age plastic becomes brittle. more specifically the wire connectors on the injectors, if you are not careful it plastic part on injector will break. Connector Joins onto the metal body in a not so sturdy sort of way…pull too hard you may cause a crack and fuel will leak from there.
also have someone check the fuel return line that’s behind the engine under the windshield cowl area. If that’s loose it will cause the issue with gas smell
The dealership checked and all recall repairs had already been performed on the vehicle. This is good information to know as well. Thanks.
When the pump is damaged in the location where his dealer suggested, the pump cannot be fixed / resealed. If I remember correctly there are warnings in the manual not to rotate that nut. It is not meant to move. The fitting in that location can be very tight. Even while using a backup wrench on the stationary nut it is difficult not to put torque on it while you break free the fitting.
Your absolutely right...
The replacement pump may leak too, hence the 30 day return window. It's worth the risk imo.
From what I understand this is where the ops pump is leaking. ( red arrow)
Definitely. This is where I pulled the picture I posted earlier in the tread. Great information and I am passing this along to the mechanic whether he knows or not.
I still have a strong sense that it will be the crush washers. Those probably cost the dealer pennies, and the fix is relatively quick. It's in their interest to charge you for new fuel pumps and complete replacement, although I suppose there's a chance they're honest.
The yellow arrows indicate where the crush washers go on the fuel pumps. It would probably take you ten minutes to test that theory:
I still have a strong sense that it will be the crush washers. Those probably cost the dealer pennies, and the fix is relatively quick. It's in their interest to charge you for new fuel pumps and complete replacement, although I suppose there's a chance they're honest.
The yellow arrows indicate where the crush washers go on the fuel pumps. It would probably take you ten minutes to test that theory:
You make a good point. I hadn't considered them being dishonest. I'm curious to find out if it's the washers or the pump. Hopefully his mechanic does a visual leak check, while it's running, before replacing the pump.
You make a good point. I hadn't considered them being dishonest. I'm curious to find out if it's the washers or the pump. Hopefully his mechanic does a visual leak check, while it's running, before replacing the pump.
I wouldn't think that there'd be much of a physical leak. It doesn't take much for there to be a smell of gas. You can see at this very specific point in this video where the crush washers are: