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Ok, miket. That is certainly doable in place - I mean trying to do valve stem seals. Those aren't expensive. I will try to dig out the campaign paper later. But if during that job you'll feel any horizontal play in any of valves - seal won't help. Guide tolerances are super tight.
I'm trying to get a parts list together for the valve seals. Is there anything special involved when removing the cams? Cam seals perhaps?
So far I already have
- Valve cover gaskets
- Hpfp kits o-rings, gaskets, crush gaskets, ect.
- Spark plug tube seals
The only spring compressors I have are for use with the head removed. I planned on ordering this kit from amazon. Is there something you guys recommend instead? I can see this amazon kit fitting on the 460. I'm not sure about the 600, heads are closer to the fenders.
I plan on ordering the valve guide seals today. I ordered a few extra incase I damage one. ( 10 percent off megazip today)
09201-41020 is a toyota
VALVE STEM OIL SEAL REPLACER https://toyota.service-solutions.com...KU=09201-41020 1 time use intake cam bolt Lexus 90110-12012
Last edited by miket000; Sep 14, 2022 at 09:05 AM.
Anybody have any ideas where I might borrow or buy the Supplemental v8 sst kit in the pictures below?
I have the complete valve spring replacement instructions, plus the video above. I have most of the required parts on order. Unfortunately my manual doesn't list the tooling sst numbers.
There are still 2 tools I'd like to procure.
1. ( first picture, yellow highlighter) Tool for the exhaust vvt gear bolt. Boykie is this really required or will a crows foot or something similar work? I assume you didn't have this exact tool when swapping your heads.
2. The spring compressor, plus valve keeper tool. I know keepers can be a royal pain sometimes. The spring loaded tool they created to hold the keepers in place while installing looks very handy. I want it lol. ( last picture, step 6 )
I started disassembly to replace the valve stem seals a few days ago. I give it a 50/50 chance of running again only because I may screw something up. There are so many jiggly bits!
I started by checking for a bad head gasket. Fluid stayed blue, no exhaust gasses in the coolant. Thanks for suggesting this Anfanger. Test was free as I rented this setup at Oreillys.
In earlier posts I questioned if it was possible to remove the valve cover. As pictured the bolts are not accessible. It turns out that black plastic cover is removable.
Close up of black cover.
Once removed there is just enough room to access the valve cover bolts next to the fender wall.
I plan on removing the hpfp mounting studs when I reinstall the valve cover. I was able to sneak the cover off with them installed but it was tight.
Let the fun begin! With front piston at TDC, crank at 0 degrees. I used a white pen to mark the cams and sprockets.
Instructions suggest using 2 different marking pens. I used 3. Red and yellow are at 110 degrees before tdc. This is the position cams and gears get removed / installed . I make multiple marks to eliminate some of the guesswork upon reassembly.
Removing the Intake gear allen bolt was uneventful. With the intake camshaft timing control motor removed there is ample access.
I struggled while removing the exhaust cam bolt. Without the special exhaust bolt tool I wasn't able to break the bolt free. My 12 point offset wrench fit nicely. Unfortunately the exhaust cam bolt was so tight I started to round the 6 point bolt off . So I made this redneck wrench.
Big round opening made the intake cam bolt easy to remove. The exhaust cam bolt has the timing chain cover blocking access. It looks like you can sneak a socket and extension on there but it's not possible. The bolt is further down than it appears.
This gap is about .7" Not even a shallow socket will slide in without modification. Bolt takes a 17mm socket.
My initial plan was to weld a shallow socket to a 1/4" thick piece of steel to use as a handle. While purchasing the socket I realized welding it to a wrench would save some time.
I only cleaned this up to prevent slag from falling off into the engine. 15/16" wrench with a 17mm socket
In order to make the thickness less than .7" I had to grind the back of the wrench and front of the socket. Grinder and paint makes me the welder i ain't.
Success. Cam's and gears removed!
Last edited by miket000; Oct 16, 2022 at 06:47 PM.
This is how I setup the amazon tool to remove the exhaust springs and keepers.
This is the angle at which it removes the intake springs and keepers.
With the piston at tdc ( top dead center) the spring can be compressed to remove the keepers. The valve makes contact with the piston about 1/4" down as the spring is compressed. Because of this I didn't need to use my air compressor to fill the cylinder with air. I was able to compress the springs just enough to remove the keepers. I will use air when I reinstall the keepers as it's helpful to have the valve stem as high as possible. I'm doubtful I can pull this off but so far so good.
While removing the valves a keeper decided it wanted a new home ( shot out of the spring). I pulled the tire off in an attempt to find the keeper. With the tire off I found it in about 30 seconds. I'm very lucky it didn't fall down into the chain cavity. I still can't believe I found it. Trying to keep the parts in order. You can see how small the keepers are. There is one keeper in the yellow box all the way on the left side of screen with the white E. It's next to the round thing.
As the valve stem seals are removed the lower part of the seal is cracking on each one. They are not flexible anymore.
Valve stem seals. New on left. Old on right. The new one is much more pliable. There is also a considerable difference in diameter. I'm trying not to get excited but the old one does seem to be in poor shape.
There is something rattling around inside the wheel I removed. I plan on having discount tire inspect it before I continue. Always something with this car.
Last edited by miket000; Oct 16, 2022 at 07:25 PM.
Did you follow the cam removal sequence? I got a little nervous seeing how you decided to do this lol! I would have removed the front cover and cam carrier assembly but if it works it works
Did you follow the cam removal sequence? I got a little nervous seeing how you decided to do this lol! I would have removed the front cover and cam carrier assembly but if it works it works
Yes, I'm following the instructions for the valve spring recall. They go into more detail than the video. I'm nervous too lol !
In the instructional video at minute 2:30 the cam chain tensioner gets pinned. That has got to be the hokiest setup ever. In the video it appears the pin goes in 1/2". It's more like 1/8" which is barely enough to support the weight of the tiny allen wrench I used. They suggest using a paper towel to secure the pin, or in my case allen wrench. Come on really, a paper towel? Then give a warning not to let it fall out while you rotate the crank. Having the chain tensioner tapped so a small bolt would thread in seems more appropriate.
Both front and back cylinders are supposed to be pressurized with 70psi at the same time while removing the springs. I assume this is so the engine doesn't rotate ( plus hold the valves up). I ordered another spring compressor kit from amazon. I plan on using the spark plug air hoses from both kits into a Y fitting for my air compressor. I don't plan on removing any more springs until I have the air setup to hold the valves in place. Hopefully I didn't bent any of the 4 valves yesterday by using the piston as a backstop.
Yesterday before removing the springs I had a brain fart. I couldn't figure out how to compress the intake springs with the provided wrench. I ordered the second spring compressor kit with the intention of cutting the handle off and welding it on at a different angle. About an hour after ordering the second kit I was able to figure it out. The 2 pictures above with the red handle of the spring compressor show what I couldn't figure out.
Today I was able to modify ( bend) one of the kits valve seal removal pliers. I now can remove the exhaust valve seals too. I'm surprised the exhaust seals are in better shape than the intakes. The one I removed didn't crack upon removal. The top doesn't appear heat damaged like the intake either.
exhaust seal
Exhaust seal pliers. It almost takes 2 hands to pull the pliers with enough force to break the seals free.
The 4 valve stem seals on the first cylinder were fairly easy to remove and replace. However, I'm pulling what's left of my hair out trying to get the springs secured in place.
I managed to get 2 of the intake valves secured. One took 2 hours, the other 15 minutes. I used a combo of grease plus small screw drivers with and without magnets. Compressing the spring while delicately placing the keepers in their home requires a lot of patience. I think this would go a lot faster with a second helper compressing the spring. Except with an extra body in the way I'd have even less access, argh.
Exhaust valve keeper installation difficulty level = 10 . I haven't got any in yet.
I ordered this tool. It's likely too long for the exhaust valves ( will hit the fender wall). Perhaps I can cut it in half then use my spring compressor? I sure wish I had access to the factory compressor kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/302025042440
If I can't figure a better method out in a week I'll probably weld something up.
It would be nice if the huge spark plug tube would unscrew. The exhaust valves have limited access.
Trying to avoid losing another keeper. She currently has no pulse.
I'm using air going into the front and back cylinders to hold the valves up. I'd really like to finish up these 2 exhaust springs and move onto the next cylinder. Maybe tomorrow the keepers will magically fall into place.
