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Those plugs are all gone, both cars would be well served by new ones IMO.
That oil is a lot....I'm not sure if it's rings or PCV/separator but I would be inclined to try to free up rings first since it's less work. Pull all 8 plugs and fill each cyl with seafoam or a cargo cleaner of your choice. Let it sit for 2-4 hours and then turn the engine by hand 180 and suck out the old cleaner and refit for another soak. Usually that is enough, put it all back together and go drive it HARD. Let it warm up but keep revs over 2500 then once you have some heat in the oil get moving and keep load and rpm high.
Change the oil after this since it will be quite used up from the process, if it's already old then change it before doing this to avoid dilution risks. It will smoke to an insane degree btw, I'm talking people may think the car/building is on fire levels of smoke.
I'm surprised the 460 oem plugs are toast after only 20k miles.
Looking past the throttle plate I did see oil in the intake. It looked like puddles of oil but it was difficult to tell, definitely was wet. Once the parts get here I'll start dissecting it. The engine sounds totally normal. My 460 gets a rattle every now and again on start up, the 600 doesn't.
When I had the injector cleaner in it I was trying to drive it hard with the rpms elevated. Dumb move now knowing it has had so much oil possibly pouring into the cylinders. Being a hybrid the only way to keep the rpms over 1k is to put it into manual shift mode. In manual mode I was able to keep the rpm's around 4k on the freeway. When in drive this engine sits in the 1100rpm range 90 percent of the time. Even while flooring it they only exceed 4k for a brief moment. I think that's why the throttle plate had such a hefty buildup in the idle position.
I ordered every hose attached to the intake. All are brittle. Hopefully the inverter coolant lines can remain attached. They could add some unwanted complexity. There sure seems to be a mess of items to remove. At least I won't be laying on my back removing parts.
I think those are the Inverter coolant lines.
Can that actuator stay attached? Darn I see a line I didn't order...
Last edited by miket000; Aug 23, 2022 at 02:00 PM.
Pull the intake asap and replace: sep to block seal, separator, pcv valve. Inexpensive parts. You're sucking oil from engine into intake. Very bad for your cats and everything.
Hoses too, especially pcv to intake one.
Pulling intake is actually pretty easy (DIY crew - go!). Main concern is lifting the harness enough to pull it. Yes, it can be just lifted and suspended by something to the hood. There are different schools on how to do it. I do it by carefully removing black brown (in your case) tape around 'spider' plastic two-piece harness holder. Careful retaping afterwards etc. Remove oil from the intake too.
Eeerily familiar issue. Hope your valve guides are fine.
Yes, you'll have to unhook coolant twins. Not much will drain, less than 1qt. Unhook connectors closer to firewall for convenience.
ACIS actuator stays with the intake, EVAP solenoid needs to go (one screw, careful with captive nut on the manifold - bugger to fish out if spun).
Those thin hoses are EVAP hoses. You can replace those too, even better.
Two visible PCV hoses (ones from covers to intake T pre-TB) are just small vacuum vents (direction is T -> covers). Good to replace too. I did recently.
Main parts to get are pcv valve, separator and seal.
Really it usually takes me less than two hours and my young hire recently dazed me by pulled intake within 25mins of car pulling in.
NEW intake gaskets (pair) NEW tb to intake gasket!
LP fuel rails stay IN. When under there dont touch anything HP fuel related. Everything under there will be very brittle. Unscrew the separator and pull it up and towards yourself (drain tube slots in towards the back, where 'bugger' bolt is, you'll see). Pick out the old hard seal and press in new one (easy).
If you are sucking a lot of oil then that's why the plugs are dying quickly/eroding like that. The 460 plug isn't as bad but there is very little top strap electrode left on the plugs you linked
Start with the intake pull and fix all of that then try rings, if those don't solve it then you may be screwed.
Pull the intake asap and replace: sep to block seal, separator, pcv valve. Inexpensive parts. You're sucking oil from engine into intake. Very bad for your cats and everything.
Hoses too, especially pcv to intake one.
Pulling intake is actually pretty easy (DIY crew - go!). Main concern is lifting the harness enough to pull it. Yes, it can be just lifted and suspended by something to the hood. There are different schools on how to do it. I do it by carefully removing black brown (in your case) tape around 'spider' plastic two-piece harness holder. Careful retaping afterwards etc. Remove oil from the intake too.
Eeerily familiar issue. Hope your valve guides are fine.
I've parked the car until I replace these parts. Wish this thing would have held on until December weather.
Thanks for the quick summary, using the hood as a hanger will be helpful.
Is this the separator you refer too? Also I'm not seeing a separator to block seal, got a p/n?
Yup, although thing in this pic is nothing like real thing. PM me your vin for part numbers.
Those appear to be universal -
Seal 12273-38020
Valve 12204-38010 for 1UR or 12204-38040 for 2UR (for future generations)
Hose 12261-38040
Intake gskts x2 17171-38020
TB gasket 22271-50050
Separator case 12215-38020 (google image search this no to see pics of real thing. it's rather big)
One more thing - there will be HP crossover pipe hanging over the sep case. Kind of S-shaped between HP rails. Carefully remove it using a good union nut spanner (or just a regular one but a good one - it's soft alloy). Reinstall afterwards. Use your best judgment when torquing.
My bad, absolutely. 12204-38040 is the correct one for 2UR. And yes, ebay is a funny place. That valve is probably worn, hose is just too wooden to come off and separator is in unknown capacity.
I have changed all rubber hoses in the engine bay including transmission lines. It was significantly more expensive than I thought. However, vacuum lines had cracks and were very stiff. I am glad I got it done.
They do add up fast. I changed a few of these hoses on my 460. However I haven't replaced the radiator or trans rubber. Whenever I'm on a long road trip I start thinking about them.