When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This can be cheated by using a known good car to calibrate the module off the bad car. I regularly use my car to recal other 460s when they have this or similar problems
Interesting, can you elaborate a bit? Where is this module? Maybe I can simply swap the module with the one in my gold car. I was thinking you guys were referring to the brake actuator. Swapping them crossed my mind but would be time consuming lol.
Silver 600 items done so far....Posting this so I can keep track too. It'll be edited as I think of stuff.
- Replaced radiator
- 4 air filters Swapped
- ac blower motor Swapped
- hybrid battery Swapped
- 4 air struts swapped
- Replaced engine mounts and all 8 control arms
- Transmission filter, gasket and fluid replaced
- Drained and filled rear diff. Drain plug was leaking.
- Left bank spark plugs replaced ( very worn)
- Interior led lights replaced / updated
- Oil change, also replaced oil filter housing mount o-rings
To do:
- replace right bank spark plugs
- reseal hpfp's
- Swap tranny mounts
- Swap headlights
To figure out:
- Brake hold feature is slow to release when pressing gas pedal. Takes 1 second longer than our other car. Just annoying, not a big deal.
- Cylinder 7 misfire under moderate to heavy acceleration It doesn't throw a cel, nor can the misfire be felt. I'm crossing my fingers driving it a long distance clears this up.
- Swap mirror motors or replace, they don't fold in. Right one tries sometimes.
- Cd/ dvd fails to spin on occasion Swap stereo or fix .
- Outside odors enter cabin, blend door seems to function fine.
My newly purchased LS 600h L also has the issue, where there's a delay with the auto-hold. It isn't a second, perhaps it's half a second, but it's noticeable...especially because I've had plenty of other cars with auto-hold, including a 2011 LS 460 L, and none of them did that.
Mine is a short second too. I'm sure the guys will chime in to correct me. This is the only calibration I can think of : Linear Valve Offset Calibration. This is a good tutorial. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-messages.html
Yea, that's the one. Make sure you use battery tender in 'support' mode when/if doing that.
Procedure, described by Striker is a good known trick, but I tend to avoid messing with near-death abs units.
Edit 2 : This box is a royal pia to change on a 600. All of the components to the right interfere with removal. ( inverter coolant line, coolant container, power steering module, ect.) I ended up unbolting all of them to gain an inch. I also unbolted the fender for some more wiggle room. Then you can barely access the electrical plugs on the bottom. I used a long flathead screw driver to release and pry out the difficult harness plugs on the bottom. Both headlights now work. Swapping the box did the trick. My hands took days to recover :/
I have it unclipped. The fender and other items are in the way. My right headlight is not illuminating. Swapped headlights over from gold car and it is still out. I'm assuming the non serviceable headlight relay in the fuse box is bad.
Last edited by miket000; Nov 13, 2023 at 08:28 PM.
Interesting, can you elaborate a bit? Where is this module? Maybe I can simply swap the module with the one in my gold car. I was thinking you guys were referring to the brake actuator. Swapping them crossed my mind but would be time consuming lol.
Originally Posted by miket000
Mine is a short second too. I'm sure the guys will chime in to correct me. This is the only calibration I can think of : Linear Valve Offset Calibration. This is a good tutorial. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-messages.html
Originally Posted by Boykie
Yea, that's the one. Make sure you use battery tender in 'support' mode when/if doing that.
Procedure, described by Striker is a good known trick, but I tend to avoid messing with near-death abs units.
I'll send a picture once my wife is home of the module you can shuffle between cars since it's her daily now. It only works if you have one car that is known good though and you need to have it on a tender with full charge and clear al codes first.
Headlights and fog lights swapped. If you're tired of updates on the gold car... Imagine how I feel lol
Gold car had a glued on headlight mount. Plus it was missing the wire harness locking clip. Luckily the headlight mount was not part of the headlamp. I was able to swap it over.
Please someone stop me if I ever dare to buy another one of these. I was tired of wrenching on this a year ago.
I didn't realize our headlights had window washer fluid cleaners. My wife asked how is that supposed to work with no wipers? Another useless feature.
This front end came apart a bit easier. I don't believe it was ever in a significant collision.
On both cars I ended up unbolting the fenders to get the headlights out. The panel gaps still lined up pretty well.
Last edited by miket000; Nov 13, 2023 at 08:29 PM.
The washers actually do work, they just spray a massive amount of fluid quite hard to do so. It will end up inside the rear seat area if the windows are open and the car is standing still.
In motion you can see the aero "shell" of the car lol! It's a LOT of fluid
The washers actually do work, they just spray a massive amount of fluid quite hard to do so. It will end up inside the rear seat area if the windows are open and the car is standing still.
In motion you can see the aero "shell" of the car lol! It's a LOT of fluid
Sounds neat! The gold one is filthy. I should run it until empty to see if the entire car gets cleaned off
Sounds neat! The gold one is filthy. I should run it until empty to see if the entire car gets cleaned off
I tried it once to see if it worked, I THOUGHT it would only spray the front and I would get away with a quick detail spray session on the bumper and it would be fine.....
I ended up just rewashing the whole car. Blue staining was everywhere
I did the linear valve offset reset procedure. After a 5 minute test drive the brake hold seems more normal now.
I also attempted to reset the cvt since I replaced the filters and half the fluid. Each time within a few seconds of initiating the relearn I got an error on techstream. Likely due to to old version / chinesium dongle. Despite the error within techstream it seems the ecu was instructed to do a relearn. Each time I got this TM learning message on my dash followed by the car jerking around while in park. After 20 seconds or so the TM Learning message goes off and all is normal.
Any thoughts on if the car fully went through the TM learning process? It seems to drive fine.
Dual monitors are great lol. Thanks again yyymmm31 for the Clear Brake Malfunction Tutorial. Fixed my brake hold delay. Tutorial on one screen, techstream on the other.
I get this within a few seconds on techstream.
Yet this pops up on the dash for 20 seconds. The cars cvt seems to be doing something during those 20 seconds. I assume it is calibrating the clutch pressures. Any thoughts?
Okay, it's not straightforward, Mike.
Here it is:
----Tech Tips
Disconnecting the negative battery terminal does not initialize (clear) the learned value.
Check Item Item Specified Condition +B 9 to 16 V WOUT Control Power 1000 W or more T/M Oil Temperature 10 to 100°C (50 to 212°F)
Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.
Turn the power switch on (READY) and turn the intelligent tester on.
Note
Check that the shift lever is in the P position and turn the power switch on (READY).
Select the following menu items: Powertrain / Hybrid Control / Data List. Read the data list before performing RESET MEMORY. (!)
(this was a table, can't copypaste it for some reason - that's the pre-conditions that needs to be met)
Item Specified Condition
+B 9 to 16 V
WOUT Control Power 1000 W or more
T/M Oil Temperature 10 to 100°C (50 to 212°F)
Note
Do not depress the accelerator pedal during RESET MEMORY.
Do not move the shift lever from the P position.
If the specified preceding conditions are not satisfied, warm up the hybrid system with the power switch on (READY) until each item meets the specified condition. (!)
Select the following menu items: Powertrain / Hybrid Control / Reset Memory.
Tester menu flow:
(picture of IT2 here, basically click next, wait until reset, click OK)CAUTION:
After performing RESET MEMORY, be sure to perform a road test described earlier.
Note
During RESET MEMORY, do not turn off either the power switch or the intelligent tester.
Tech Tips
Approximately 1 minute is required to complete RESET MEMORY. (!)
The ECU is learned by performing a road test. (!!!!!!!)
----
At that point system expects you to perform 'road test', which is kind of convoluted but required for full relearn (after successful full reset!).
---ROAD TEST
Shift shock level when driving with the shift lever in D
During normal driving, inspect the shock level when shifting to LO and HI gears.
S position test
Shift to the S position, depress the accelerator pedal and check the following points:
Check shift operation (speed limits for engine braking).
CAUTION:
Do not perform this test on public roads. Perform this test only in a safe place where this type of driving is permitted.
With the shift lever in the S position (while the vehicle is stopped), shift to the "+" position to check that the shift position indicated on the combination meter changes as follows: 1 → 2, 2 → 3, 3 → 4, 4 → 5, 5 → 6, 6 → 7 and 7 → 8.
While driving at a vehicle speed of approximately 104 km/h (65 mph) with the shift lever in the S position (4th gear), shift to the "-" side of the sequential gate and check the engine braking in 3rd gear.
While driving at a vehicle speed of approximately 89 km/h (55 mph) with the shift lever in the S position (3rd gear), shift to the "-" side of the sequential gate and check engine braking in 2nd gear.
While driving at a vehicle speed of approximately 66 km/h (41 mph) with the shift lever in the S position (2nd gear), shift to the "-" side of the sequential gate and check engine braking in 1st gear.
Shift timing when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed
Accelerate the vehicle by fully depressing the accelerator pedal with the shift lever in the D position. Check that the shift timing from LO to HI gear is correct.
P position test
Stop the vehicle on a grade (more than 5°) and after shifting into the P position, release the parking brake and check that the parking lock pawl holds the vehicle in place.
It doesn't throw a cel, nor can the misfire be felt. I'm crossing my fingers driving it a long distance clears this up.
