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I pulled it apart today.
Cylinder head intakes are all gummed up with oil. What to do about that? Brake / carb cleaner flush it down into the cylinder? Or only on the closed valves and attempt to suck the garbage back out, then rotate crank and repeat? Walnut blasting?
The new pcv seals better than the old one ( sucked on them). I also noticed the big oil seperator case thingy might have delaminated. It had white flaky residue all the way around its seam. Plus many of the hoses were old and brittle I'm sure some were not sealing.
The valley plate showed evidence of minor leaks so I pulled it too. What is the preferred sealant for it? Factory sealant seems kinda lacking imo. I've heard some dealers use Permatex The Right stuff gasket maker. I'm familiar with the right stuff. It's worked well on many of my engine rebuilds. Leaning toward using it for now.
To finish sealing the valley plate I need the 2 orings for the coolant tube and sealant. Anything else? I have a few gallons of new coolant.
Oh and all 4 black connectors for the high pressure fuel injectors cracked ( locking tabs broke off). What's the official and non official ways of reattaching them? Replace the connectors, dab of the right stuff sealant, safety wire, probably too hot in there for duct tape? Obviously kidding about the tape. I probably could have squeezed the plate out without disconnecting those 4 fuel injectors. Having them disconnected made it a lot easier. I didn't crack any injectors which was my concern.
Intake manifold was wet with oil. It didn't have any pour out when removed.
Oil separator with white residue all the way around on the seam. Cracked? I have a new one to install. Thanks Boykie!
Pcv valves Old vs new
Lot's of nasty stuck to the sides of the cylinder head intake.
More nasty. This valve has some carbon or something on it.
Top view of the cylinder head. The intakes are red / brown from the oil.
A bit of dried coolant around the valley plate. This explains my slow loss of coolant.
Valley plate removed. I lost a bit of blood during the process. As a result the coolant is a bit darker than normal.
Partially cleaned up. The yellow arrow pointer is directly on the silver high pressure fuel port I loosened up ( took the 2 allen bolts out). My current plan is to bolt it back together and check for leaks when I'm done. Unless someone recommends otherwise.
I had difficulty pulling the valley plate out. To gain better access I loosened this high pressure fuel port, I only pulled it out 1/8" or so. Should I order gaskets for it or simply bolt it back on the fuel rail? I didn't pull it out far enough to see any gaskets, I assume it has some thick o-ring as it feels spongy. In hind sight I think I could have squeezed the plate out without messing with the fuel rail, oh well. Moving on.
Last edited by miket000; Aug 27, 2022 at 11:38 PM.
The valves are fairly clean due to EFI rinsing them with gas. If you want to get in there to clean, you should make certain valves are closed. A brush and a cleaner like Sea Foam, brake or carb cleaner should soaked up by towel after letting it sit a few minutes and scrubbing. Don't let debris into cylinder. VW and Audi have only direct injection which means their valves build massive amounts of carbon over time. Do a search for cleaning Audi valves and you'll se what real buildup looks like. Congrats on getting in there and doing battle yourself.
Great job! So. Use only PINK toyota sealant on valley plate, otherwise it will leak again soon. I have part no somewhere for it.
Careful with HP fuel relief valve - better replace the gasket.
Yea, massive amounts of oil and carbon. Though I've seen worse. You can carefully try removing some carbon. But at least remove all oil residue. I usually take a cloth, spray it with carb cleaner, then carefully rub away stuff I can reach. Good vacuuming of debris is a good idea before reassembly.
Yes, looks like separator is delaminated.
Add: Valley sealant - 'Seal Packing 1282B' 08826-00100
What to do with connectors? Tough question. We usually have some spare new connectors, repin and done. Way worse when injector stalk breaks - those aren't cheap.
BTW you should take pics/record what color are your injector rings. Those are visible after socket is off. Usually those are all black or one side black one side brown. But there's 4 color codes in total in existence. ADD: I see your B2 is all blacks, that usually means B1 is also all blacks. Ok.
Idk perhaps some ziptie rigging? Although yea, it's hot in there.
I have 3 gallons of toyota pink coolant. Plus a new water pump, I purchased these shortly after buying the car. Seems like a good time to swap it out.
Anfanger do you have the P/N handy for those black injector connectors? I'm not sure how to look those up.
This is the p/n for the fuel relief valve 20320-31020 https://parts.lexusofqueens.com/a/Le...4410-2211.html
It is $900! I see why you said "be careful"! I'm wondering if trying to fully remove it from the rail could possibly damage it.
I'm also going to need torque's for..
1. Valley plate
2. Knock sensors
I need to order 2 of these coolant pipe o-rings. 9676135035
Reminder for myself to order seals for the separator.
Last edited by miket000; Aug 28, 2022 at 10:32 AM.
Ok. Main concern with HP fuel system is that it runs at insane pressures. This relief valve is rated at 15MPa (MEGApascals) e.g. Also hard to re-access after assembly.
I need to stop by local brewery before it's shut for the day, then I'll post the proper torques.
Connectors - I hope Anfanger got those numbers.
Mission complete, here's torques:
Valley plate - Torque: for bolt A and B21 N*m { 214 kgf*cm, 15 ft.*lbf }; for nut21 N*m { 214 kgf*cm, 15 ft.*lbf }
For knock sensors - Torque: 20 N*m { 204 kgf*cm, 15 ft.*lbf }. Extra note - reinstall in exact positions/orientation! This is somewhat critical.
Sep case - 10 N*m { 102 kgf*cm, 7 ft.*lbf }
Oh yes, those are the ones. Thanks Anfanger!
Relief valve - 600 is different from 460, yours got solenoid and teflon seals, mine got just an oring and screws into rail. So you may be able just to reinstall the valve and tighten two mounting screws and that's it. Just make sure there's nothing in the bore.
From FSM:
"Apply engine oil to the O-ring. Using a 5 mm hexagon socket wrench, install the fuel relief valve to the fuel delivery pipe with the 2 bolts.
Torque:9.0 N*m { 92 kgf*cm, 80 in.*lbf }; Note
Make sure there is no gasoline on the O-ring and inside the installation hole."
That separator picture.. It made quite a noise when I shared it with some fellow mechanics. Wow. Good thing I replaced mine last month without taking any chances of future delam.
The separators are an issue on these and the tundras now since it's an age/heat related failure not miles. Should have been stainless steel if you ask me.....
But I wouldn't worry about this one. There's no pressure there, just oil dripping back into pan. You may also have trouble accessing back tube and that tube (+second seal) isn't available separately. No need for unnecessary risk, believe me.
PS. Parts cannon can be addictive, especially at those prices (who knew that e.g. that separator is like couple of bucks. Imagine price of similar part on beamer lol), but exercise restraint please Get a new coolant cap (those are service items), new gas cap (too), while barrel is hot. How's your plug tube seals? HPFPs seals? Noisy pulleys/idlers?
Ok. I wondered if that seal was part of the tube. I'm happy to leave it alone. Thanks. I do see some oil in that pipe. Should i blow on it to check for obstruction? I'm still wondering what caused the oil to blow into the intake. I'm guessing delaminated separator.
I twice replaced the tensioner pulley, it's quiet. I have new tube seals, hpfp gaskets, plus new valve cover gaskets. All still boxed up (My hedge against inflation . It's not currently leaking enough to justify replacing said parts.
Plus the valve covers look impossible to reinstall They are so close to the fender walls the bolts aren't visible. Is it even possible to remove them engine in car? Makes the 460 valve covers seem like a walk in the park.
I'm happy the parts are relatively cheap. I could use new caps No beamers for me.
Get a new coolant cap (those are service items), new gas cap (too), while barrel is hot. How's your plug tube seals? HPFPs seals? Noisy pulleys/idlers?
. It's not currently leaking enough to justify replacing said parts.