Can the car be hooked up for diagnostics and will it show where the draw is or could be coming from?

 

as in now it’s fully charged or it was fully charged and voltage was ok when you handed it to them ? If it was good when you handed it to them voltage was ok then you don’t have an issue with the charging system battery it might be the starter and starter issue is potentially relay and solenoid which can be replaced without replacing the whole starter.

 

When I handed it to them it was more than dead - 100% so it is now fully charged. I called my Lexus dealership and they said the most common problem is the Lexus/Toyota batteries have a reserve in them to handle the electronics or draws but most aftermarket dont or people purchase the wrong ones. Not sure how true this is, but even the Lexus battery is no more expensive than an aftermarket or at least my quote from my dealer.

 

So Lexus told me the check the reserve amps the car requires 133 and my battery is rated at 120 so is there that big of a difference, I guess if it needs 133 and only getting 120 its going to drain correct?

 

well who sells or what brand of batteries makes no difference, you must get the right type and a quality brand that’s fresh, there are usually date codes to determine when the battery was made, you want to get as recently manufactured as possible. Just out of curiosity what’s the specs on yours I was using Bosch s4, 95ah, 800 cca. Now I’m using Varta G7
95ah, 830 cca. This seems to be the safe bet spec wise. Type batteries, those made for European cars, deplete to a certain level then charge, batteries for Asian cars continually deplete and recharge. I don’t know about American cars.

These types of batteries which are usually mid range, do not like being left unused for extended patiods and do not do well being drained too low, which is essentially only a volt or 2. AGM batteries are the best but are spendy, they can be drained down and recharged and not suffer from it. Conventional batteries do not do well in that scenario.

 

Part NumberMT-34
Group Size34
Cold Cranking Amps700
Cranking Amps875
(RC) Min @ 25 Amp120
Length10 1/4
Width6 7/8
Height7 3/4
Weight37.4

 

how are you finding out the reserve amps? I don’t see that info listed for both batteries I mentioned.

Ah or amp hours are not the same as reserve amps, google to understand, I just did lol. I think basically it’s x 2 the, I looked deeper I do see Bosch does list reserve amps for their batteries 120 would be 65ah battery. 133 if using that would be 73ah or so. The funny thing is different companies list different capacities. For Bosch they say 65ah, varta says 95ah.

I go with the theory that would should put the biggest battery that will fit in the holder and that’s about 95ah, i dont think a bigger one will physically fit.

 

yeah I look at the website strange they don’t list ah like the batteries here anyways from the cca 700 vs my 830, you can see that it’s probably at the edge of what’s ok so you don’t have room to play with. I suggest going minimum with the specs I have which I think is the max you can physically fit. Hope that helps

 

Yes my battery is smaller than the holder. I have to take the car into Lexus Friday for ZLZ I will just have them replace the battery.

 

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-question.html

 

So my rear passenger door lights won't work. I played with switch and no luck? Is there a fuse? Could this be the issue and all of a sudden my fey fob won't work either and I just changed the battery in it.

 

If it’s only one light not working it’s the switch or the bulb, try taking a bulb from another light and swapping it in, you might need to flip the bulb polarity for it to work, if you are lazy and don’t want to disconnect the battery don’t use metal tools to mess with the electrical connections you might short something out, use plastic tools to remove the light etc, if you see that it’s not the bulb then change the switch, it costs 10 bucks or less on rockauto. You only have one fob ?

Btw I advise that you get a my size battery, the one you want to get that Lexus recommends is not going to give you much of a buffer.

 

Yes the light works in the other side so its not the bulb so the switch can mess with it even when open shouldn't it come on? Neither light works on the entire door.

What do you mean my size battery?

 

if the switch is faulty how is it going to tell the circuit it’s open ? When it’s faulty you have no idea when it’s doing what. It could be on when you close eye door off when your door is open etc Simple take a working door switch from another side and swap it to see, tip .....tape the switch connector to the body so it doesn’t fall into the cavity.

I have a 95ah battery Lexus is suggesting 70+ Ah, I’m suggesting you do what I did and go biggest that would fit. Less issues.

 

I understand. I appreciate it. What is the right part number I need I didnt see it one rock auto for the door switch.

I mean key fob connection is messed up and i changed the battery.