Just read a thread about rust- started thinking about mine
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From: Ontario
Just read a thread about rust- started thinking about mine
So as some you might know from my threads I do not live in the US, getting things done is not so easy.
BUT what are kind of shops do you have there that do rust abatement ? maybe there is a website I can go to look that lists steps and procedures, maybe I can get the same done here if I know what steps are taken. Also I know there is a layer of felt under some parts of the car so would be great to know if those come down etc. THANKS
BUT what are kind of shops do you have there that do rust abatement ? maybe there is a website I can go to look that lists steps and procedures, maybe I can get the same done here if I know what steps are taken. Also I know there is a layer of felt under some parts of the car so would be great to know if those come down etc. THANKS
What exactly do you mean by rust abatement? Rust repair? Rust prevention? In either case, modern automobiles have the best rust prevention treatment you can get right from the factory and shouldn't be rusting in any climate if they are less than 10 years old (unless you have had poorly done accident repair or aftermarket body parts).
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From: Ohio
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From: New Hampshire
I'd advise the following products...Krown rust prevention or Fluid Film. I'm sure there's are others but twice a year treatment with either of these two and you're way ahead of the game. Both products seep into pinch welded body panels and prevent moisture from accumulating. In the US a Fluid Film treatment for a car is around $150. Krown is a little more. Another company is NH Oil Undercoating (same concept).
All three treatments don't dry, they stay tacky, they can flex and it won't crack letting moisture in. But it is not a permanent covering, it needs to be done once or twice a year.
I used to use the Fluid Film on my LS460...did it myself along the pinch welds and certain areas that were only painted. The problem with the LS460 is that to truly do a treatment you'd have to remove all the plastic sound insulation under the car. I never went that far.
All three treatments don't dry, they stay tacky, they can flex and it won't crack letting moisture in. But it is not a permanent covering, it needs to be done once or twice a year.
I used to use the Fluid Film on my LS460...did it myself along the pinch welds and certain areas that were only painted. The problem with the LS460 is that to truly do a treatment you'd have to remove all the plastic sound insulation under the car. I never went that far.
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: New Jersey
X2 on the Fluid Film! I use this stuff on ALL my snow equipment and it still looks new after many New Jersey winters.
Another product I have used on my winter beater and DD is the Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, I sprayed this in all nooks and crannies (doors, fenders, etc) on my 2010 Chevy PU and inside/outside of my frame rails and I have had great success with staying rust free on a truck that is driven every day and sits outside. www.amsoil.com
Fluid Film can be washed off with soap and water because it is lanolin based...... The Amsoil HD Metal Protect does not wash off and you need to remove it with mineral spirits.
Another product I have used on my winter beater and DD is the Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, I sprayed this in all nooks and crannies (doors, fenders, etc) on my 2010 Chevy PU and inside/outside of my frame rails and I have had great success with staying rust free on a truck that is driven every day and sits outside. www.amsoil.com
Fluid Film can be washed off with soap and water because it is lanolin based...... The Amsoil HD Metal Protect does not wash off and you need to remove it with mineral spirits.
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: New Hampshire
X2 on the Fluid Film! I use this stuff on ALL my snow equipment and it still looks new after many New Jersey winters.
Another product I have used on my winter beater and DD is the Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, I sprayed this in all nooks and crannies (doors, fenders, etc) on my 2010 Chevy PU and inside/outside of my frame rails and I have had great success with staying rust free on a truck that is driven every day and sits outside. www.amsoil.com
Fluid Film can be washed off with soap and water because it is lanolin based...... The Amsoil HD Metal Protect does not wash off and you need to remove it with mineral spirits.
Another product I have used on my winter beater and DD is the Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, I sprayed this in all nooks and crannies (doors, fenders, etc) on my 2010 Chevy PU and inside/outside of my frame rails and I have had great success with staying rust free on a truck that is driven every day and sits outside. www.amsoil.com
Fluid Film can be washed off with soap and water because it is lanolin based...... The Amsoil HD Metal Protect does not wash off and you need to remove it with mineral spirits.
Both go on a little thin. Don't know if the Amsoil product is available in the five gallon containers, but if you go that way with the Fluid Film it's a totally different experience...the five gallon bucket compared to the cans is much much thicker and goes on much tackier. I like it better than the cans.
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What exactly do you mean by rust abatement? Rust repair? Rust prevention? In either case, modern automobiles have the best rust prevention treatment you can get right from the factory and shouldn't be rusting in any climate if they are less than 10 years old (unless you have had poorly done accident repair or aftermarket body parts).
What do people do on parts with some surface corrosion/scale or parts like bolts/pulleys with rust on them, replace them or are there any steps to take to rescue them?
Last edited by UDel; Sep 6, 2018 at 09:15 AM.
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