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Anyone Going 10,000 miles Oil Changes?

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Old 06-17-18, 09:41 AM
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colfax
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tofuprod, so you change every 10K - do you run 0-20 or 5-20, and of course I assume full synthetic, Toyota oil and any particular ?

you buy it new? how many miles on it now?

thanks!
Old 06-17-18, 09:51 AM
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tofuprod
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Originally Posted by colfax
tofuprod, so you change every 10K - do you run 0-20 or 5-20, and of course I assume full synthetic, Toyota oil and any particular ?

you buy it new? how many miles on it now?

thanks!
Hi Col,
I live in Chicago (not sure if relevant) but I do run 0w20, full synthetic yes and I use OEM filters, I usually find a deal of a two-pack for them on Amazon, much like for the 2-pack oem filters I buy on Amazon for my S2000 and my bike.

I did not purchase it new, bought it in August of just last year with about 43k on the odometer and it currently sits at about 51k on the odometer. I had an oil change done the moment when purchased, but I will be going back in shortly for an oil change (or do it myself) but also get my tires rotated (mine is AWD).
Old 06-19-18, 04:38 PM
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Richardgil
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Originally Posted by Doublebase
I used to be on board with the extended oil change intervals...was an active member on "bobstheoilguy". Read up on all these different types of oils, all their additive packages, total base number, active ingredients left, Blackstone lab analysis. Tried it myself...bought expensive "high quality synthetic " an "excellent" filter and went close to 10,000 miles. I'll never try that crap again. Never. By 178,000 mikes my engine was essentially worn. My engine began drinking oil. Rings were shot.

Here's the problem in my opinion with the extended oil drains...

First off its fueled by cafe regulations (less oil usage, government mandated laws enforced on manufacturers). So they comply - of course - plus they also can "sell" to the public that maintenance is cheap...you don't have to spend as much on maintenance now. Isn't that great?

Second -- Today's engines. These engines today are so different than even engines of ten years ago. First off most have timing chains - the chains slice right through that oil, shearing it. It's constant. Now you also have direct injection. The pistons get directly blasted with fuel under very high pressure (700-3000 psi). That never used to be the case. Soot, carbon and fuel now get blasted right past the lower tension rings...right into that oil. It's dirty. It's abrasive. It's diluted. A filter is working over time. The oil is working over time. The blowby in some of these engines is ridiculous. Take a look into the intakes of some of these engines.

Three -- Turbos. So many are coming with turbos now. The oil is being asked to do a lot, it's getting hot.

Four -- Cylinder deactivation. Some cars are using it. Lifters are asked to collapse, keep valves from opening, and the fuel is cut off. Oil pressure and actuators control these systems. Oil controls these systems. Pressure is being exerted on camshafts. Oil has to be clean on those rollers (some cars and trucks are coming in with rollers worn right off).

Five -- High pressure fuel pumps driven off of camshafts. Lots of load on camshafts. Lots of tight clearance and demand. Oil needs to be clean and capable of constantly providing protection between the pump and lobe.

This is just things ive seen.

Most techs you ask don't believe in extended drains. In fact I know guys who still won't go much past 3,000 miles. I used to do extended drains, now I keep it around 5,000.

If cost is an issue, I believe Walmart sells a 0w20 fully synthetic oil for like $18 bucks for five quarts. I think it's dexos approved. I've read it's decent enough. I'd rather use that every 5,000 miles than let Mobil 1 or Royal Purple sit in there for 10,000. Just my opinion. I love oil talk.

love oil talk too. Always changed my own, got too old and a little difficult to get rid of used oil. I'm probably the only guy i know who can't wait to go to the dealer to have the oil changed, like an "outing".
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