I should have added in my earlier post that there are better aftermarket rotors available. I still have my original rotors, but if I replaced them I would follow the advice here to use the Centric brand.

I will also endorse the Akebono ceramic pads. I have them on my car and my wife's Jag. Best brake pads I have ever had. Well let me qualify. There may be better braking pads out there, but neither my wife nor I track the LS or S-Type. What I love, love, love is the virtual non-existence of brake dust!

 

Went with this setup in July of last year, roughly 15K miles ago, and my front left rotor is now warped. Not terribly, but it's enough to make noise and produce a little shimmy in the steering wheel when braking. Otherwise, no complaints. I'll likely just be ordering a single rotor to replace this one, not worth the hassle to have them turned.

And good info on torquing them down incorrectly, I'm wondering if this is my issue. I never pay attention to the order or how much I tighten them, but I always do it by hand and simply get them a hair past tight, so it's not like I'm putting a ton of force behind them. But, the car was in the shop for a bunch of front end work (differential) so maybe they could have done it with an impact, but I'd hope not given their reputation as one of the best independent Toyota/Lexus mechanics in N Austin. I'll be paying closer attention going forward.

 

---
Uneven torque on wheel lugs is one of the major causes for warped rotors. Other causes include washing your car (wheels) right after driving it or driving through water. In any case, following the torque specs and the right order of tightening up lugs helps reduce the risk of getting warped rotors. I have about 12K miles on my set of Centric rotors and pads without having problem. My main reason for replacing the OE rotors and pads with Centric brake components was for getting rid of the annoying brake pad/rotor noise when I pressed the brake pedal, not because of warped rotors.
---

 

Remarkably, I've yet to warp the EBC slotted rotors on my '08, and we just returned from a few days in Colorado which included a few fairly high-G, um, reductions in cruising speed.

The Yellowstuff pads are nicely aggressive but they do give off more dust than OEM.

On a semi-related note, I can say the 130 MPH governor kicks in remarkably gently and smoothly. Even with out-west elevated cruising speeds, MPG was 26+ on every tank, with 28.5, or so, on one of them.

I should clarify for those of you who have not driven on I-25 in Colorado...it's accepted the speed of traffic outside cities may be triple-digits. Even then, don't squat in the left lane. Instead, treat it like the Autobahn.

 

I was not impressed. After about 6 months the Centric Premium from Rockauto are warped again....they have been for a while now and I need to find a replacement again...

Anything reasonable priced that does not warp with a little heavy driving (I drive an hour each way to work and it involves traffic)?

 

Why do you have to be so rude? This is a friendly, helpful community here and you consistently post in a rude and condescending way...

 

No doubt, rough childhood maybe?

 

Hey Fun fact..................
Many manufacturers require you to bed in brake pads after installation to ensure proper traction between the brake pad and rotor. This stop-and-go process, sometimes called “burnishing,” alters and usually increases the coefficient of friction between the rotor and pad to ensure stable braking power.

Despite the common use of this practice, however, not all brake pads require breaking in. Akebono’s ultra-premium ceramic disc brake pads do not require this step, because they are precision-engineered to perform and mold to your rotors over time. There is no specific burnishing procedure needed with Akebono brake pads.


When installing Akebono brake pads, technicians should follow all other procedures according to specification. Old rotors should be replaced or resurfaced, and the hub-mounting surface should be cleaned thoroughly and inspected for excessive run-out. Once Akebono’s brake pads have been installed, the job is complete and pads are ready for use—saving time and increasing bay utilization.


Trust Akebono quality to not only eliminate the extra steps and costs of bedding in, but to also ensure your customers stop safe-ly and smoothly every time.


Akebono manufactures 100 percent of its Pro-ACT®, EURO® and Performance® Ultra-Premium ceramic brake pads in the USA.

 

Fun you are in Texas, come on down to Round Rock, playing 18 tomorrow.
I'll buy you a few , smoke a cigar and relax.

 

Well that is one way of handling the situation!

 

I have come across rude sometimes yes, sorry for that but, I will get more civil.
After all it is just the Web! If we were talking face to face this would not transpire.

 

Good deal!

 

I get whiskey bent and hell bound sometimes!

 

The bottom line in the argument about warped rotors is semantics. Yes, the pulsating people feel that people attribute to "warped rotors" is caused by pad deposits on the rotor, not a physical warping of the rotors. However, the accepted description for the condition is "warped rotors" and rotors of different quality are more susceptible to warping than others (heat dissipation, compatibility with pad material, evenness and consistency of the rotor material, etc).

These cars with the OEM rotors have a tendency to develop "warped" rotors.

 

Here is the rude and condescending comment just in case you can't pick it out.


FunFact, please exit this thread.

Other folks, please knock off the personal comments.