When I apply the brakes, there is a worsening shake in the steering wheel. The rotors were turned 27,000 miles ago. Front suspension bushings were replaced 125,000 miles ago.

Is the shake likely a result of the rotors being warped again or could worn suspension bushings cause that if the rotors are not warped. Gonna have it checked out soon but I'm wondering if anyone has a solid opinion on this.
I think it's likely that the rotors are the cause but I'm also wondering if worn suspension bushings could increase the steering wheel shake or even cause it on there own.

Thanks.

 

Yep, warped again.

Rotors are so close to minimum thickness (to be useful), now, turning them is kinda pointless other than to buy time to get new ones.

This started in the late-80s. It's all about weight and MPG.

Bushes have to be in severely deteriorated condition to allow a shimmy to start, without input from something else (brakes, bump, hole).

I doubt they're in poor condition after 125K miles.

 

Thanks for the quick response. That makes sense and it's what I expected. The whole front end is shot.

I just ordered a new control arm kit off Amazon and ball joints off ebay.
Will order rotors too.

Is there anything else I should know about?
I'm privy to putting weight on the wheels before torqueing.
Air shocks are old but still function so I'll leave those for now.
Tires and alignment and I'm good to go, right?

 

So, I checked rotors. There are several options ranging in price from around $180 to $405. Any recommendations?
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...xus/ls460/2008

Recently I saw an ad on Craig's list for an is350 that had cryogenically-treated rotors installed on it. The guy said they do not warp. Any knowledge on that?

 

Oh, I'd wager your front end is okay. Oregon roads are in decent condition compared to much of the rest of the US (I lived south of Portland for a few years (Canby)).

Yeah...um, any rotors made of metal can warp. I'd run with the $180 ones, honestly.

How many miles are on this beast?

 

Have you looked into R1 Concepts?
They have their e-Line and a Geo option or something. I've had buddies that run them on their cars and never had problems, all for under 500 bucks (rotors and pads)

 

Based on the discussion on this forum, it seems that Centric Premium rotors and its Posi-Quiet pads proved to be a good choice.

 

Many of us went with Centric Premium rotors and couldn't be happier. They are awesome. I've had mine for a couple of years and they are still warp free.

 

+1 for the Centric rotors. Worked great for me as well.

 

Centric also makes cryo rotors. Could just be all a coincidence. They're pricey compared to regular non-cryo ones though.

 

I no longer have the car but was repeatedly replacing the brakes rotors, brake pads and brakes themselves due to shaking when applying the brakes on my Lexus RX 350. Lexus was telling me that I was riding the brakes too hard and while I really liked the car, I ultimately I got rid of it due to expense and the hassle of having it repaired. I am once again seeking another car -- would love to get another Lexus. So i googled the issue, and discovered many, many others have experienced the same issue on this and other models and received the same reply. I am shocked to see that Lexus continues not to acknowledge and/or fix this issue. Wondering what can be done to light a fire under them?

 

I think when you go to car forums for other makes you will see threads discussing the same issue. While the problem could result from excessive high braking, I think most of the problem is the result of tires being mounted with air guns set at way too high torque and consequently actually warping the rotor. Particularly if they don't even observe the proper tightening order. I think most tire places are lazy, or worse ignorant or untrained, and just leave the air gun at one setting without regard to the type of car/wheel they are servicing and the manufacturer specs.

I have an independent mechanic would works on my car and my wife's 2001 Jaguar S-Type. I order all my tires from Tire Rack and have him do the balance (Road Force) and mounting. Additionally he swaps my wife's summer tires for snow tires and vice versa twice a year. He hand torques the lug nuts. Neither car has ever had brake shuddering. Same is true for the place that services my Ferrari where all lug nuts are hand torqued.

 

Exactly what Nospinzone said....THEY TORQUE THEM BAD!

 

In the same boat with OEM...will be ordering a set of those as well...

 

I took the advice of the masses here and also went with the centrics, I had a horrible highway shake that I lived with for too long, and finally swapped in the new rotors about 2 weeks ago and the shaking is 100% gone.

I also have much more BITE from the akebono brake pads now that I swapped in a few months ago.