The pads MUST be ceramic to prevent deposit transfer. Semi-metallic pads are the worst for this. Organic aren't much better.

 

CENTRIC10512830Posi-Quiet Ceramic w/Shims and Hardware

Those are the ones I picked up.

Looking around for a budget friendly set for the front that wont warp again... I do a lot of heavy driving in traffic so even the OEM ones were only 3-5 months old before they warped...

 

Very, very surprising.

 

I had progressively worsening shaking while braking for the past couple of months. Just replaced the front rotors and pads, and wow, the car feels like a cloud again. Did the labor myself which took about an hour. This video helped a ton and shows you how easy it is -->
Here is the kit I bought --> https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1434552&jsn=22

Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads with Centric rotors. Also came with all new hardware. So far so good! I did some research on the Centric website and they said you don't need to do the break-in procedure because normal daily driving should do the trick, but I did end up doing about 10, 60mph-10mph hard decelerations to break-in the pads.

 

I learned a long time ago how important properly torquing down the lug nuts evenly is to keeping brake pad deposits even on the rotor.

Uneven torque will accelerate rotor “warp” very quickly! Break out that torque wrench

 

The industry doesn't agree with warped as a commonly used term being correct:

https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia...c-8-2018_1.pdf

https://alconkits.com/support/brake-...d-brake-rotors

I have managed to get brakes really hot. Not hot like street driving, but genuinely hot to the point of fading full race pads by overdriving with the stability controls turned on. The Lexus on the caliper was silver at the start of the day. It is still the color you see in this picture.





I have also worn pads to their ultimate limits:



I've never warped a rotor. Ever. Sounds like something is missing in the equation with these cars, but I can certainly say if you don't use a torque wrench and install the OEM lug nuts at 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs), you're making a big mistake. FWIW, I am the guy who loosens all the lugs on the car after I have new tires installed and retightens them with MY torque wrench (Snap On Techangle) because I don't trust them to do it right, and I even like these guys because they're better than most around here.

The factory service manual's instructions for inspecting the brakes on a car are very explicit and call for a runout measurement when installing the rotors. Very few brake techs actually do this. It is also mandatory to remove any corrosion from the hub face to ensure the rotor sits flat on the hub. It's also critical to check the wheel bearings in the hub - if they are worn/loose, your brakes won't last long.

Most brake issues are a result of failing to adhere to sound maintenance practices, or failure to properly bed new pads based on the pad manufacturer's recommendations.

 

103 ft pounds I understand is the correct wheel lug torque on LS 460’s

 

Straight from the user manual. Lug nut torque 103 ft-lbs

 

Fair enough. Everything else Toyota makes besides the Tundra and Landcruiser is 103 Nm. Literally everything else. Still, the most important thing it to ensure the basics are right. If they are not, all bets are off, and yes, you could very well cause a rotor to warp as measured by runout with a dial indicator.

TIS say this: 14. INSTALL FRONT WHEEL

Torque:

140 N·m {1428 kgf·cm, 103ft·lbf}

Apparently there is a small discrepancy between the owner's manual and the factory service manual.

Also, the runout spec on the front rotors, regardless of which size rotors you have, is:

(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the disc runout 10 mm inside (0.39 in.) the outer edge of the disc.

Maximum disc runout:

0.04 mm (0.0016 in.)

 

Google "warped rotors" tell a mechanic you have "warped rotors", look at everybody here using the term "warped rotors", its the commonly used description of this condition.

My mechanic told me that the reason this happens on these cars is Lexus' OEM pads are extra thick non-ceramic pads, and they deposit a lot of pad material on hot rotors. Thats why he never recommends using the OEM pads and rotors when you replace them.

 

It's pretty hard to get rotors "hot" driving on the street. If the pad material is that low temperature, do they fade easily?

Warped may be common. Doesn't mean it's accurate. There's a huge difference between uneven pad deposits and a rotor that isn't true. I can kill uneven pad deposits with garnet paper and a die grinder pretty easily. Straightening a rotor that isn't true doesn't happen. Cast iron is too brittle for that.

 

I've not known them to fade, but they definitely "warp". All you have to do is look at the comments here to see that.

 

Is there a link to these?

 

I am also confused and ready to replace the pads and rotors. Are all the Centric pads "cryo"? The pads are ceramic? Any specific link to what is working would be great. I am at 28K on my 17 with the dreaded brake shutter. Are we only doing the fronts is my other question?

I am pretty handy and the video seems simple enough although I dont own impact tools. Is this a must for removing the caliber?

Thanks to all- great thread and a problem I have never research through all my Ls's

Bruce

 

These are the rotors and pads I bought. Be sure to lookup the right pads for your year and AWD or RWD:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...36903&jsn=1010

The Centric Premium rotors can be cryo treated but they aren't all cryo. The ones I've used are not cryo treated. You want the post-quiet ceramic pads. They also make a post-quiet semi-metallic pad, but you want the ceramic pads.