Easier Way to Replace Upstream O2 Sensor in 2007-2009??
04-21-17, 11:49 AM
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Easier Way to Replace Upstream O2 Sensor in 2007-2009??
Hello,
I looked at All Data and it looks like there are 15 steps or so, to replace the upstream bank 2 (passenger side) sensor...including removing the alternator? Looked at the sticky DIY section, and really not much on these beasts besides oil changes
.
Thanks for any help in advance
I looked at All Data and it looks like there are 15 steps or so, to replace the upstream bank 2 (passenger side) sensor...including removing the alternator? Looked at the sticky DIY section, and really not much on these beasts besides oil changes
.Thanks for any help in advance
04-21-17, 07:47 PM
#3
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I'm surprised all data even gave you directions, usually when I look up directions for something like an O2 sensor it says...step 1- remove O2 sensor. That's it. Lol.
I haven't done the O2 sensors on these cars but I'd look around...under, above, and through the wheel wells. There may be an easier way, but sometimes the easiest way is to remove everything like the directions are telling you. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
I haven't done the O2 sensors on these cars but I'd look around...under, above, and through the wheel wells. There may be an easier way, but sometimes the easiest way is to remove everything like the directions are telling you. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
04-24-17, 06:37 AM
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11-29-18, 07:19 AM
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STEPS:
(not a bad idea to remove the neg battery terminal since there is alternator wiriing in the vicinity of this job
1. Jack up vehicle Front Drivers side jack point
2. Remove Front Drivers side Tire
3. Locate a small plastic window toward posterio-medial aspect of wheel well 2 10mm bolts, remove window
4. Oxygen sensor will be visible through window just posteriorly.
5. Remove metal shielding (several 10mm bolts) and (4) 14mm bolts
6. Use a standard oxygen sensor socket 3/8' drive and seat it on the oxygen sensor.
(FROM THIS POINT ON YOU ARE UNDER THE CAR)
7. Using a thin profile 3/.8" drive ratchet with long extension (flex head if possible from Harbor Frieght is what I used worked well), the wrench handle will be posterior (down the vehicle) through a gap where the shielding was blocking. There is enough room between this gap and the lateral frame of the vehicle to torque the sensor off.
8. Once sensor is freed, will spin out by hand (in AZ/CA at least), and there is enough wire slack to spin wire along with it.
9. At this point oxygen sensor is dangling, trace wire with hand and undo from the metal hook/hangar assembly.
10. The wire is seated to a metal bracket with a plastic retainer clip. I put a 18"-24" screwdriver or pry par up toward this clip from the back, and with left arm and hand helping stabilie i remove the clip with a reasonable amount of force
11. once clip is removed, apply some tether to the wire and you'll have a view of the connector. Using a screwdriver in your left hand you should be able to negotiate the connector off, but warning this is a PITA. I recommend shooting the connector with some lubricant, before attempting. You cannot get any type of long screwdriver into the connector because female end of connector from wiring harness is clipped to another metal bracket and I did not want to damage the clip.
12. With patience and understanding of how the plastic connectors mate (see the replacement end) you should be able to negotiote the connector free
13. If you have exteremely low profile and strong hands, you can reach the connector but very difficult to get any kind of force on it.
Once removed, installation is reverse of these steps. This is a monumental PITA, however, I do think this is the most time sensitive approach, You must remove the oxygen sensor before you can reach your hand up to deal with the connector. I realize thats counterituitive. Usually I disconnect first and then unscrew the sensor. I've tranpslanted the IS250 engines and know how tight for space things are. This is not an easy approach and youll need fairly low profile arms to snake up to reach the connector. I'll update the thread if I find any other ways or tips, but at the moment, this is the best approach I can suggest.
IF YOU ARE REALLY STUCK, YOU CAN ALWAYS REMOVE THE OLD SENSOR AND CUT THE WIRING AND SPLICE THE WIRING INTO THE NEW SENSOR, THIS WAY YOU DON"T HAVE TO DEAL WITH REMOVING THE CONNECTOR. THIS IS NOT THE RIGHT WAY TO DO THINGS, BUT CONSIDERING THE COST AND TIME INVOLVED OF FOLLOWING THE BOOK PROCEDURE, THIS MAY BE A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE FOR SOME
(not a bad idea to remove the neg battery terminal since there is alternator wiriing in the vicinity of this job
1. Jack up vehicle Front Drivers side jack point
2. Remove Front Drivers side Tire
3. Locate a small plastic window toward posterio-medial aspect of wheel well 2 10mm bolts, remove window
4. Oxygen sensor will be visible through window just posteriorly.
5. Remove metal shielding (several 10mm bolts) and (4) 14mm bolts
6. Use a standard oxygen sensor socket 3/8' drive and seat it on the oxygen sensor.
(FROM THIS POINT ON YOU ARE UNDER THE CAR)
7. Using a thin profile 3/.8" drive ratchet with long extension (flex head if possible from Harbor Frieght is what I used worked well), the wrench handle will be posterior (down the vehicle) through a gap where the shielding was blocking. There is enough room between this gap and the lateral frame of the vehicle to torque the sensor off.
8. Once sensor is freed, will spin out by hand (in AZ/CA at least), and there is enough wire slack to spin wire along with it.
9. At this point oxygen sensor is dangling, trace wire with hand and undo from the metal hook/hangar assembly.
10. The wire is seated to a metal bracket with a plastic retainer clip. I put a 18"-24" screwdriver or pry par up toward this clip from the back, and with left arm and hand helping stabilie i remove the clip with a reasonable amount of force
11. once clip is removed, apply some tether to the wire and you'll have a view of the connector. Using a screwdriver in your left hand you should be able to negotiate the connector off, but warning this is a PITA. I recommend shooting the connector with some lubricant, before attempting. You cannot get any type of long screwdriver into the connector because female end of connector from wiring harness is clipped to another metal bracket and I did not want to damage the clip.
12. With patience and understanding of how the plastic connectors mate (see the replacement end) you should be able to negotiote the connector free
13. If you have exteremely low profile and strong hands, you can reach the connector but very difficult to get any kind of force on it.
Once removed, installation is reverse of these steps. This is a monumental PITA, however, I do think this is the most time sensitive approach, You must remove the oxygen sensor before you can reach your hand up to deal with the connector. I realize thats counterituitive. Usually I disconnect first and then unscrew the sensor. I've tranpslanted the IS250 engines and know how tight for space things are. This is not an easy approach and youll need fairly low profile arms to snake up to reach the connector. I'll update the thread if I find any other ways or tips, but at the moment, this is the best approach I can suggest.
IF YOU ARE REALLY STUCK, YOU CAN ALWAYS REMOVE THE OLD SENSOR AND CUT THE WIRING AND SPLICE THE WIRING INTO THE NEW SENSOR, THIS WAY YOU DON"T HAVE TO DEAL WITH REMOVING THE CONNECTOR. THIS IS NOT THE RIGHT WAY TO DO THINGS, BUT CONSIDERING THE COST AND TIME INVOLVED OF FOLLOWING THE BOOK PROCEDURE, THIS MAY BE A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE FOR SOME
The following 2 users liked this post by mobitechaz:
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02-08-20, 08:39 PM
#7
STEPS:
(not a bad idea to remove the neg battery terminal since there is alternator wiriing in the vicinity of this job
1. Jack up vehicle Front Drivers side jack point
2. Remove Front Drivers side Tire
3. Locate a small plastic window toward posterio-medial aspect of wheel well 2 10mm bolts, remove window
4. Oxygen sensor will be visible through window just posteriorly.
5. Remove metal shielding (several 10mm bolts) and (4) 14mm bolts
6. Use a standard oxygen sensor socket 3/8' drive and seat it on the oxygen sensor.
(FROM THIS POINT ON YOU ARE UNDER THE CAR)
7. Using a thin profile 3/.8" drive ratchet with long extension (flex head if possible from Harbor Frieght is what I used worked well), the wrench handle will be posterior (down the vehicle) through a gap where the shielding was blocking. There is enough room between this gap and the lateral frame of the vehicle to torque the sensor off.
8. Once sensor is freed, will spin out by hand (in AZ/CA at least), and there is enough wire slack to spin wire along with it.
9. At this point oxygen sensor is dangling, trace wire with hand and undo from the metal hook/hangar assembly.
10. The wire is seated to a metal bracket with a plastic retainer clip. I put a 18"-24" screwdriver or pry par up toward this clip from the back, and with left arm and hand helping stabilie i remove the clip with a reasonable amount of force
11. once clip is removed, apply some tether to the wire and you'll have a view of the connector. Using a screwdriver in your left hand you should be able to negotiate the connector off, but warning this is a PITA. I recommend shooting the connector with some lubricant, before attempting. You cannot get any type of long screwdriver into the connector because female end of connector from wiring harness is clipped to another metal bracket and I did not want to damage the clip.
12. With patience and understanding of how the plastic connectors mate (see the replacement end) you should be able to negotiote the connector free
13. If you have exteremely low profile and strong hands, you can reach the connector but very difficult to get any kind of force on it.
Once removed, installation is reverse of these steps. This is a monumental PITA, however, I do think this is the most time sensitive approach, You must remove the oxygen sensor before you can reach your hand up to deal with the connector. I realize thats counterituitive. Usually I disconnect first and then unscrew the sensor. I've tranpslanted the IS250 engines and know how tight for space things are. This is not an easy approach and youll need fairly low profile arms to snake up to reach the connector. I'll update the thread if I find any other ways or tips, but at the moment, this is the best approach I can suggest.
IF YOU ARE REALLY STUCK, YOU CAN ALWAYS REMOVE THE OLD SENSOR AND CUT THE WIRING AND SPLICE THE WIRING INTO THE NEW SENSOR, THIS WAY YOU DON"T HAVE TO DEAL WITH REMOVING THE CONNECTOR. THIS IS NOT THE RIGHT WAY TO DO THINGS, BUT CONSIDERING THE COST AND TIME INVOLVED OF FOLLOWING THE BOOK PROCEDURE, THIS MAY BE A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE FOR SOME
(not a bad idea to remove the neg battery terminal since there is alternator wiriing in the vicinity of this job
1. Jack up vehicle Front Drivers side jack point
2. Remove Front Drivers side Tire
3. Locate a small plastic window toward posterio-medial aspect of wheel well 2 10mm bolts, remove window
4. Oxygen sensor will be visible through window just posteriorly.
5. Remove metal shielding (several 10mm bolts) and (4) 14mm bolts
6. Use a standard oxygen sensor socket 3/8' drive and seat it on the oxygen sensor.
(FROM THIS POINT ON YOU ARE UNDER THE CAR)
7. Using a thin profile 3/.8" drive ratchet with long extension (flex head if possible from Harbor Frieght is what I used worked well), the wrench handle will be posterior (down the vehicle) through a gap where the shielding was blocking. There is enough room between this gap and the lateral frame of the vehicle to torque the sensor off.
8. Once sensor is freed, will spin out by hand (in AZ/CA at least), and there is enough wire slack to spin wire along with it.
9. At this point oxygen sensor is dangling, trace wire with hand and undo from the metal hook/hangar assembly.
10. The wire is seated to a metal bracket with a plastic retainer clip. I put a 18"-24" screwdriver or pry par up toward this clip from the back, and with left arm and hand helping stabilie i remove the clip with a reasonable amount of force
11. once clip is removed, apply some tether to the wire and you'll have a view of the connector. Using a screwdriver in your left hand you should be able to negotiate the connector off, but warning this is a PITA. I recommend shooting the connector with some lubricant, before attempting. You cannot get any type of long screwdriver into the connector because female end of connector from wiring harness is clipped to another metal bracket and I did not want to damage the clip.
12. With patience and understanding of how the plastic connectors mate (see the replacement end) you should be able to negotiote the connector free
13. If you have exteremely low profile and strong hands, you can reach the connector but very difficult to get any kind of force on it.
Once removed, installation is reverse of these steps. This is a monumental PITA, however, I do think this is the most time sensitive approach, You must remove the oxygen sensor before you can reach your hand up to deal with the connector. I realize thats counterituitive. Usually I disconnect first and then unscrew the sensor. I've tranpslanted the IS250 engines and know how tight for space things are. This is not an easy approach and youll need fairly low profile arms to snake up to reach the connector. I'll update the thread if I find any other ways or tips, but at the moment, this is the best approach I can suggest.
IF YOU ARE REALLY STUCK, YOU CAN ALWAYS REMOVE THE OLD SENSOR AND CUT THE WIRING AND SPLICE THE WIRING INTO THE NEW SENSOR, THIS WAY YOU DON"T HAVE TO DEAL WITH REMOVING THE CONNECTOR. THIS IS NOT THE RIGHT WAY TO DO THINGS, BUT CONSIDERING THE COST AND TIME INVOLVED OF FOLLOWING THE BOOK PROCEDURE, THIS MAY BE A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE FOR SOME
The op asked about bank 2 senor (passenger). I assume everything is the same just on the other side correct? Just trying to make sure before undergoing the task. Thanks in advance
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