A quick call to the dealer confirmed that I do in fact have the Touring Package so I need the Bigger Brakes and Rotors. Of Course !!!

 

OK, it looks like the Pads are the same but the Rotors are the only difference. Imagine that.

 

Just a quick one.... In the past with breaks, the OEM ones tended to last a long time before needed replacing with very little problems. My front has a warp, so of course getting the heavy vibration on breaking. I assume the last owner just put cheap breaks on. My plan was to just replace rotors and pads (why not while we are here).

In my LS430, I tried Pepboys models, they were reasonable priced but, 10K miles they were warped.

Should I get a good result going with OEM, as I just don't want something that warps in 10-20K miles. An OEM set with rotors and pads are like $220 or so, and I thought that was reasonable.

 

Dave

If you have read anything in this thread I believe that you will find that almost no one recommends the OEM rotors.

Dennis

 

Looking over ROCKAUTO going by the suggestion of roadfrog the CENTRIC 12044150 Premium Disc seems to be what he is using (and seems like exactly what I want). I have a LS460 L so I assume I need to use the " Front Left; L Model; Touring package" I didn't know they were different and I wanted to make sure I am shopping for the correct parts. I didn't know the L was defined as a Touring model.

 

Dave
I also have a 460L but I do not have the touring model option. There is a difference in parts so just make sure you indeed have that option. Most folks have been very happy with the CENTRIC Premium Coated Rotors. I know that I am.

Dennis

 

Dennis,

To be honest with you, I didn't even know there was a "touring model", how do I tell if my car is one ? I have the Window sticker, would it be listed on there ? and what is the real difference between a touring or non-touring ?

There is a noticeable difference in price for the Non-touring model, so I wanted to make sure...

Thanks !

 

I called the dealer and was told that I have the touring model and the Touring model uses the larger Rotors. Of course I have the touring Model.

 

Dave
I believe it is just a larger rotor. If you have to window sticker, I would guess it would be listed as a package or part of a package option?

Dennis

 

Smart man!

I've run drilled on two cars, now, the '95 Intrepid ES 3.5L we used to have and the 2005 Cadillac STS which was immediately prior to the LS.

Drilled = 'sizzle', though if you have the radio on, you probably won't hear it.

I just finished the rears, yesterday, fronts were last week. I had to wait for rear rotors to be made.

What. A. Difference!!!

EBC all-around, Yellowstuff pads, slotted Ultimax rotors all-around, reused shims & clips/springs, $636 for parts, another $60 for shipping (which, with rotors, ain't bad), and their price could not be beat. They have a brake guy who calls you to check this is exactly what you both want and need. He asked if this was my DD...I said 'yes'. He then asked how I drove it. He was all ready to dissuade me from Yellow pads, but after a few more questions, when he asked, "do you drive it like you stole it?", I told him, "yeah, I drive it like I stole it, that's exactly it", he understood I knew what I wanted. These are borderline track pads, but honestly, they feel wonderful on the street.

I think the main concern was excessive dust. I can live with brake dust, if the performance is very good to excellent. Hell, I've owned both a W126 and W124 Mercedes. Those things generate brake dust even if you don't move them!

The initial ultra-aggressive bite is gone from quick application of the pedal, as is near-constant adjustments as the car slows. They're very, very linear and honestly, make the car feel markedly different.

The front rotors, OEM, were severely warped, and I've not had luck with turning rotors on vehicles newer than about the mid-80s. I think most of this is MPG-related, as that un-sprung weight is a killer for everything...ride, handling, efficiency, cost, and other stuff I probably don't even think about.

Now, if they're warped, I just get new ones. This wasn't inexpensive, no, and my brakes cost as much in parts, alone, as many of y'all paid to have it done. I did mine in the garage, no biggie, though the LS's setup was something I'd never seen before. Minor things, but I'd never seen them before. For example, I've never seen springs which were also pin restraints, before.

FWIW, the front pads were very obviously new when I bought the car about 15K miles ago. The old pads were maybe 1/16" "thinner" than the new ones. The rears were about 1/2 gone, but the wear sensor was, strangely enough, about to start dragging.

Also, one of the best things about electric power steering is it's relatively easy to crank the wheel while the car is 'off', especially if one wheel is in the air. No need to start the engine.

Summarized:

Pads: EBC Yellowstuff

Rotors: EBC Ultimax, slotted, not drilled, not dimpled, not cryo'd

Hardware: Put OEM back

How long or how many miles: About a week on the fronts, two days on the rears, figure about 350 miles

Vendor: buybrakes.com

Comments: This is the way they SHOULD feel!

 

I didn't realize cross-drilled rotors are prone to b
noise. Back in my youth I wanted to get drilled and slotted rotors for our rice grinder Integra but changed my mind after reading that many of the aftermarket brands back then were a little too aggressive with the cooling and gave up too much surface area and you ended up with longer stopping distances. Granted, this was 20 years ago.

I don't think I have the right rims to show off a rotor and brake caliper upgrade anyways. If only they made the Lexus 5-star split-spoke in 19". Sigh.

 

Wheels, dude...they're wheels.

The rim is the outer edge of the wheel.

/rant

The sizzle of drilled rotors is really only noticeable when above 50 MPH and windows are down. You've gotta be moderately on the brakes, too, they don't make noise if you're really gentle with them.

 

On my ‘13 -

is is there a difference in rotors/pads between the AWD and RWD platforms (non f sport)?

 

They use the exact same rotors and brake pads between the RWD and AWD NON F Sport models.

 

My friend that owns a slightly older year (but also AWD) said that RockAuto.com has the AWD rotors with a different part # than the RWD?

Please advise?