Originally Posted by diamente

here's my update.
My mileage on street is 19MPG. and on freeway up to 28MPG but almost 95% of time is 19mpg combined.

I decided to spend about $3.4K in parts and labor cost for a shop to change all my 02 sensors (4), spark plug seals, fuel pump gaskets, water pump, engine coolant, differential fluid, transmission fluid, transmission oil filter, pcv valve, thermostat, valve cover gaskets (2 of them, right and left side, no interchangeable), serpentine belt.

I got all my parts from Ebay and I made sure they were genuine DENSO. if you need my ebay order history, let me know.

I changed air filter, spark plugs, cabin air filter (make sure you follow the steps, push the recirculate button so vent is up). I didn't follow that and damaged the AC. it's fixable but I am too lazy to fix it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIKP...&index=88&t=0s

I was out of time and energy after changing out spark plugs. While changing i found out spark plugs were soaked in oil. The spark plug seals need to be replaced. I decided to let someone change out the seals. The spark plug was one of the hardest job i had ever taken. But it's actually easy now since i know how to do the job. I was stuck on removing spark plugs closest to the firewall and that took me about 2 days. Spark plug #4 and #8.
Refer to engine diagram here https://www.2carpros.com/questions/f...-expedition-v8

here's my youtube playlist https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ry_dygegHpNcxy

the one on spark plug https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avk2...&index=15&t=0s
make sure you remove all seals. I think there are 2 at least and it should be bare metal. otherwise, there is no clearance to pull out and install spark plugs #4 and #8.

Make sure you check out my post on fake denso parts on Ebay. I got fake Denso O2 sensor from ebay. I was able to replace one of them myself with a genuine part.

Originally Posted by scutch

Hi, -I just want to confirm something. You had trouble with plugs #4 and #8 because you did not pull up the plugs seals first, correct? Or was it still a problem with #4 and 8, plug seals pulled up or not?
I am having a shop replace seals, plugs and coil boots tomorrow, and I want to be clear what the advice is when they come to plugs that seem like they won't come out with some engine movement. I have a 2007 LS460.
Thanks
Eddie

Originally Posted by Spudo769

I did this job a few years back and I didn't have to move the engine at all. I did remove the plug seals. you do have to remove the battery trsy and loosen up the ignition box to get at those back ones.

Originally Posted by Spudo769

Old Plugs
Spent about 3 hours yesterday swapping out the plugs on my 07, 79,802 miles on them. Thanks Roadfrog for the original post and for all the others who added details, pointers, and experiences. This went pretty smoothly, as I have gone over the pics dozens of times and assembled the right tools. I almost had the proverbial heart attack when I got everything done, hooked up the battery, let it sit awhile. I pushed the start button, the car started and immediately shut down. I waited a few long, sweaty and nervous seconds and tried it again, and it fired right up! Relief! Anyway, not sure it runs way better, and the plugs I took out didn't look too bad. However I am enjoying the placebo effect and the feeling of accomplishment for a job I won't have to do again for another 80k.

Some tips:

• I purchased a magnetic spark plug socket with a 6 inch swivel extension permanently attached. This worked great, and made it easy to pull the old plugs out. None of mine were in there too tightly. I also used another 4 inch extension for a few, and alternated between a small ratchet and a longer ratchet with a swiveling head.
• I didn't see any oil in any of the tubes, a good sign. Most of the rubber boots on the coil packs were pretty clean, the very first one had what looked like a bit of spider web or lint on it. wiped them clean.
• I had some anti seize, and have used that on spark plugs in the past. However, with conflicting info, and the fact that the originals came out pretty easily, I did not use this time.
• A trick I picked up years ago to gingerly get the new plugs started and avoid cross threading was to use about 8 inches of 3/8 inch rubber hose. The hose slips over the top of the plug, and you can feed it down the tube. As you start threading, if you encounter resistance you can back it out. I think you have much better feel through the rubber than the metal socket. This worked great. I was usually able to get them all the way to hand tight, then just tighten some more with the sockets. Only issue was that twice the rubber was hard to pull back off, so had to grip with the long needle nose.
• Yes, removing the gasket/boot gives you the clearance you need.
• The rear driver's plug was the last and most challenging for me. I removed the ecu box and moved it aside but didn't want to unplug it, other than the top plug. There is also something else sticking out of the engine that blocks access and view of that last one. Fortunately I was able to get the clip off the coil pretty easily. You still didn't have much room, and it was tedious using 2 hands to get the old plug out and the new one in. If all were like this one the project would take much longer. Also the only one that caused some blood, I think from the bracket.

All in all think I had about $70 in the plugs, tools, etc. So I figure I am $300-$400 ahead.

Thanks all!

Originally Posted by williamb82

The rear most plugs are not hard to change. Passenger side its easiest to pull the battery and the tray. I had to break my tray to get it out as the bolts were so rusted, they were little domes. I spent 2 hours getting them out so I can bolt a new tray in later. The drivers side, you can unbolt the igniter for easier access.

I changed the valve cover gaskets, plugs tube seals, high pressure fuel pump seals and gaskets, and the o rings for the cam caps to the valve covers when I did my plugs earlier this week. FInished all of it including cleaning up afterwards by like 4pm. Would have been faster, but wasted 2 hours getting the damn battery tray and the rusted bolts for it out. Also, I had to unbolt the 2 nuts for the motor mounts and jack the engine up probably 4in or so to get the front two plug coils out on each side. My motor mounts are sagging bad. Likely from the valve covers leaking onto them. I think the motor mounts are the cause of the mystery rattle to be honest. I will be changing them, but not for awhile.

Removing those 2 nuts so the engine can be jacked up only takes a couple min (less than 5 including jacking the car up to get to them), so if they try to add hours to the job, they are ripping you off!!!

Originally Posted by AZGS4

Can anyone confirm what the torque spec is for our spark plugs. OP list it as "about 13" foot pounds, but most of what I am seeing online is 15 foot pounds. Not sure how much difference 2 foot pounds makes either way. I have the plugs in now and have tightened to 13, but want to make sure I do not need to bump it to 15 before I close everything back up.