DIY Spark Plug Replacment
03-27-18, 04:10 PM
#106
They are $48.31 for all 8(and that is a great deal)... and RIGHT NOW there is a 15% off coupon... They came to $41.06 ! Last time I looked a set was around $100 for the same plugs...
Ebay Coupon: PREPSPRING
Ends at 8pm tonight...
Last edited by DavidinCT; 03-27-18 at 04:14 PM.
03-27-18, 06:35 PM
#107
ANYONE thinking of doing this, TONIGHT for the last 1 hour is a deal.... MOVE NOW !!
They are $48.31 for all 8(and that is a great deal)... and RIGHT NOW there is a 15% off coupon... They came to $41.06 ! Last time I looked a set was around $100 for the same plugs...
Ebay Coupon: PREPSPRING
Ends at 8pm tonight...
They are $48.31 for all 8(and that is a great deal)... and RIGHT NOW there is a 15% off coupon... They came to $41.06 ! Last time I looked a set was around $100 for the same plugs...
Ebay Coupon: PREPSPRING
Ends at 8pm tonight...
03-27-18, 08:03 PM
#108
I am wondering the same. If they are compatible then why Denso site doesn't list them for LS460? I wouldn't worry about the TT part but compatibility needs to be 100% as it is just not worth saving if they are not compatible. I don't want to rely on eBay listing saying it is compatible. Need another source. Price is great though.
https://www.denso.com/cgi-bin/global/plug/usa/4w/plug.cgi?name=LS460&filename=4w-37.txt&action=search
Edit: Autozone shows compatible but part numbers are all over the place.
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...lug/181872_0_0
Edit: These are not 120K miles plugs like OEM http://www.denso-am.eu/media/455864/...trifold-uk.pdf They are 120K kilometers or about 75K miles. That doesn't matter to me but wanted everyone to know.
This is a direct fit for even lower price. 8X Genuine Denso Spark Plug-Iridium For Lexus IS GS LS FK20HBR11 90919-01249
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8X-Genuine-...9/112786194033
Last edited by BMW7_LS430; 03-27-18 at 08:42 PM. Reason: Added Autozone reference
03-28-18, 05:38 PM
#110
I am wondering the same. If they are compatible then why Denso site doesn't list them for LS460? I wouldn't worry about the TT part but compatibility needs to be 100% as it is just not worth saving if they are not compatible. I don't want to rely on eBay listing saying it is compatible. Need another source. Price is great though.
https://www.denso.com/cgi-bin/global/plug/usa/4w/plug.cgi?name=LS460&filename=4w-37.txt&action=search
Edit: Autozone shows compatible but part numbers are all over the place.
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...lug/181872_0_0
Edit: These are not 120K miles plugs like OEM http://www.denso-am.eu/media/455864/...trifold-uk.pdf They are 120K kilometers or about 75K miles. That doesn't matter to me but wanted everyone to know.
This is a direct fit for even lower price. 8X Genuine Denso Spark Plug-Iridium For Lexus IS GS LS FK20HBR11 90919-01249
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8X-Genuine-...9/112786194033
https://www.denso.com/cgi-bin/global/plug/usa/4w/plug.cgi?name=LS460&filename=4w-37.txt&action=search
Edit: Autozone shows compatible but part numbers are all over the place.
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...lug/181872_0_0
Edit: These are not 120K miles plugs like OEM http://www.denso-am.eu/media/455864/...trifold-uk.pdf They are 120K kilometers or about 75K miles. That doesn't matter to me but wanted everyone to know.
This is a direct fit for even lower price. 8X Genuine Denso Spark Plug-Iridium For Lexus IS GS LS FK20HBR11 90919-01249
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8X-Genuine-...9/112786194033
Even though 75k life is not a big deal for most people, even the OEM long life ones people are changing them at 60K.... And if you put 10-15K a year on your car (average), your talking 6-7 years with those.
Too bad I missed the coupon... could of saved another 15% of those (it was a $25 or more purchase )
Edit: got them in, OEM Toyota boxes, nice, true OEM
Last edited by DavidinCT; 04-03-18 at 08:42 AM.
03-29-18, 11:21 AM
#112
Pole Position
I'm very sorry to hear about your engine damage however your comments above and on another thread suggest that this engine is prone for this kind of problem with a spark plug change. This is not the case at all as this can happen to any engine. I have been around forums long enough to see others that ruined their engine in the same manner. On inspection during the rebuild it was usually a washer or nut and it was acknowledged that it was the carelessness of the person doing the install.
03-29-18, 12:48 PM
#113
Compressed air is a good idea but you must really first look in the holes with a flashlight to be safe. I have seen nuts etc. lodged in there that air won't blow out. I have seen mechanics devastated by ruining engines after this happened. Luckily this never happened to me but I had my share of screw ups.
03-29-18, 02:43 PM
#114
Looks like Denso shows 2 Denso spark plugs for the LS460:
http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-pa...#searchResults
This Denso video shows the Iridium TT to last 100k miles.
03-29-18, 03:34 PM
#115
03-29-18, 03:36 PM
#116
ebay posting lists following part number and not sure if it is a mistake or not. It is just not worth taking risk on this specific posting even though as per the video Iridium TT plugs are supposed to last more than 100K miles. I am usually a risk taker but I didn't see a point spending more that what FK20HBR11 plugs are going for a listing with inconsistencies in description.
Manufacturer Part Number:SX632 Iridium TT 8
Manufacturer Part Number:SX632 Iridium TT 8
03-29-18, 04:14 PM
#117
ebay posting lists following part number and not sure if it is a mistake or not. It is just not worth taking risk on this specific posting even though as per the video Iridium TT plugs are supposed to last more than 100K miles. I am usually a risk taker but I didn't see a point spending more that what FK20HBR11 plugs are going for a listing with inconsistencies in description.
Manufacturer Part Number:SX632 Iridium TT 8
Manufacturer Part Number:SX632 Iridium TT 8
I totally agree about the risk taking on a relatively small priced spark plug parts that may be lasting about 100k miles and be responsible for how the engine burns its gasoline.
Just be careful with the eBay purchased spark plugs as apparently there have been some Denso knock-offs floating around.
05-10-18, 10:36 AM
#118
This is great, and works fine as is. However, I dropped a wrench and then one of the coil seal parts (the hard plastic bit that seats in the opening for the spark plug) down the gap between the engine and firewall. It was tough to get to, and I ended up buying 2 types of pickup tool and a mirror set to get it back.
The easy fix (before this happens) is to stuff a kitchen towel size rag, or several rags along the gap and push it below the coils. Make sure it fills the whole area, then when I dropped stuff it was right there on the towel.
Where the coil doesn't have an angle to pull out, if you hook the hard plastic ring that is seated at the top of the hole and pull it out, there's plenty of room without bending anything. You pull the coil up a bit, and catch the ring with a stiff wire or dental pick. Once it's out of the way, the hole is now considerably bigger and the angle is better.
I also had a problem where the 5/8" spark plug socket stuck to the new plug after it was in, and the extension came right out. I fought that for a while to get my socket back. The fix for that is to use electrical tape to secure a 4" extension to the plug socket, then tape a universal flex joint to that 4" extension. The assembly just makes it out of the hole so you can grab it, and it works in every spot. I mated that to a 12" extension and a socket or torque wrench. The two places against the firewall were a little easier putting the socket right on the universal joint.
When I tried to remove my battery tray, the bolts were so corroded that a socket wouldn't turn them. I knew I was going to have to destroy the battery tray to get it out, so instead I just used enough force to flex the forward corner of the tray up (without the battery bolted down, and with the little washer pried out of the hole) and pull the coil out under the tray. It worked all three times and I heard the tray give some, but the part that was cracking is out from under the battery so it isn't a structural issue.
I'll order a battery tray and cut this one off next time I need in there (maybe never, but I'll have the part).
The easy fix (before this happens) is to stuff a kitchen towel size rag, or several rags along the gap and push it below the coils. Make sure it fills the whole area, then when I dropped stuff it was right there on the towel.
Where the coil doesn't have an angle to pull out, if you hook the hard plastic ring that is seated at the top of the hole and pull it out, there's plenty of room without bending anything. You pull the coil up a bit, and catch the ring with a stiff wire or dental pick. Once it's out of the way, the hole is now considerably bigger and the angle is better.
I also had a problem where the 5/8" spark plug socket stuck to the new plug after it was in, and the extension came right out. I fought that for a while to get my socket back. The fix for that is to use electrical tape to secure a 4" extension to the plug socket, then tape a universal flex joint to that 4" extension. The assembly just makes it out of the hole so you can grab it, and it works in every spot. I mated that to a 12" extension and a socket or torque wrench. The two places against the firewall were a little easier putting the socket right on the universal joint.
When I tried to remove my battery tray, the bolts were so corroded that a socket wouldn't turn them. I knew I was going to have to destroy the battery tray to get it out, so instead I just used enough force to flex the forward corner of the tray up (without the battery bolted down, and with the little washer pried out of the hole) and pull the coil out under the tray. It worked all three times and I heard the tray give some, but the part that was cracking is out from under the battery so it isn't a structural issue.
I'll order a battery tray and cut this one off next time I need in there (maybe never, but I'll have the part).
I was shopping for a 5/8 inch magnetic spark plug socket and came across this:
Does it look like a good idea?
05-21-18, 10:46 AM
#119
Getting ready to do this next. I have read this multiple times, looked hard at all the pics. I have the plugs, a long needle nose pliers, magnetic spark plug socket with attached extension, various other extensions, as pivoting socket wrench, anti seize, will tuck a towel underneath the plug cylinders to catch dropped items, have a magnetic wand in case, and have looked closely at the job a few times under the hood. 78,000 on the 07, original plugs. This one is making me nervous, as breaking a plug or letting something get into the engine could be a disaster. I think I am totally prepared and can handle this but one last question: The module on the driver's side, I have seen the instructions on removing the bolts/nuts and possibly the bracket, but no one has mentioned if the electrical connectors need to be removed or if you can simply set the unit aside without unplugging it. If anyone who has done this can weigh in on more detail on that piece I would be grateful.
06-04-18, 07:55 AM
#120
Old Plugs
Spent about 3 hours yesterday swapping out the plugs on my 07, 79,802 miles on them. Thanks Roadfrog for the original post and for all the others who added details, pointers, and experiences. This went pretty smoothly, as I have gone over the pics dozens of times and assembled the right tools. I almost had the proverbial heart attack when I got everything done, hooked up the battery, let it sit awhile. I pushed the start button, the car started and immediately shut down. I waited a few long, sweaty and nervous seconds and tried it again, and it fired right up! Relief! Anyway, not sure it runs way better, and the plugs I took out didn't look too bad. However I am enjoying the placebo effect and the feeling of accomplishment for a job I won't have to do again for another 80k.
Some tips:
- I purchased a magnetic spark plug socket with a 6 inch swivel extension permanently attached. This worked great, and made it easy to pull the old plugs out. None of mine were in there too tightly. I also used another 4 inch extension for a few, and alternated between a small ratchet and a longer ratchet with a swiveling head.
- I didn't see any oil in any of the tubes, a good sign. Most of the rubber boots on the coil packs were pretty clean, the very first one had what looked like a bit of spider web or lint on it. wiped them clean.
- I had some anti seize, and have used that on spark plugs in the past. However, with conflicting info, and the fact that the originals came out pretty easily, I did not use this time.
- A trick I picked up years ago to gingerly get the new plugs started and avoid cross threading was to use about 8 inches of 3/8 inch rubber hose. The hose slips over the top of the plug, and you can feed it down the tube. As you start threading, if you encounter resistance you can back it out. I think you have much better feel through the rubber than the metal socket. This worked great. I was usually able to get them all the way to hand tight, then just tighten some more with the sockets. Only issue was that twice the rubber was hard to pull back off, so had to grip with the long needle nose.
- Yes, removing the gasket/boot gives you the clearance you need.
- The rear driver's plug was the last and most challenging for me. I removed the ecu box and moved it aside but didn't want to unplug it, other than the top plug. There is also something else sticking out of the engine that blocks access and view of that last one. Fortunately I was able to get the clip off the coil pretty easily. You still didn't have much room, and it was tedious using 2 hands to get the old plug out and the new one in. If all were like this one the project would take much longer. Also the only one that caused some blood, I think from the bracket.
Thanks all!
Last edited by Spudo769; 06-04-18 at 07:59 AM.
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