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Nice setup! Are you porting the sub box into the cabin area or just keeping it sealed? I have my custom enclosure ported thru the rear center armrest and to me it is much cleaner bass and zero trunk rattle.
its vented into the cabin thru the oem sub opening..(u can see the bottom half of the vent in the center chamber). i did square it up so the vent could go all the way thru then i'll seal it off from the trunk the best i can..
i didnt fully trim an dress the 1st encl.. i usually tune them before i build trim panels an cut plexi so as not too waste materials.. also i wait a week so the sub fully breaks in to see if i need to add air space or adjust port lengths once the suspension loosens up..
dunno a price yet.. i plan on using 3/4" plexi (which isnt cheap) but a wood an f-glas is already labor intensive..but i can always be persuaded to build something similar..(i do still have the 3-10 encl in its raw form.. no carpet or vinyl etc just wood and glass)
adam i love dynamat extreme an roadkill expert..(the spray stuff never really impressed me) in our cars not much is really needed but i'm old school an ounce of prevention an all that.. plus if i left the fiberglass sit against the metal of the seat back you would hear them touch as the car twists during driving. i did a double layer on the seat back and all four doors.. side body panels got single.. plan on doing the roof soon..since the headliners comin out anyway..
since i'm REALLY impressed with this set up.. i'll pull it in the next week or so an start the trim process..stay tuned for pics. but i'll be doing a lil traveling(an miss the V2Labs meet) so no big rush..
its vented into the cabin thru the oem sub opening..(u can see the bottom half of the vent in the center chamber). i did square it up so the vent could go all the way thru then i'll seal it off from the trunk the best i can..
i didnt fully trim an dress the 1st encl.. i usually tune them before i build trim panels an cut plexi so as not too waste materials.. also i wait a week so the sub fully breaks in to see if i need to add air space or adjust port lengths once the suspension loosens up..
dunno a price yet.. i plan on using 3/4" plexi (which isnt cheap) but a wood an f-glas is already labor intensive..but i can always be persuaded to build something similar..(i do still have the 3-10 encl in its raw form.. no carpet or vinyl etc just wood and glass)
adam i love dynamat extreme an roadkill expert..(the spray stuff never really impressed me) in our cars not much is really needed but i'm old school an ounce of prevention an all that.. plus if i left the fiberglass sit against the metal of the seat back you would hear them touch as the car twists during driving. i did a double layer on the seat back and all four doors.. side body panels got single.. plan on doing the roof soon..since the headliners comin out anyway..
since i'm REALLY impressed with this set up.. i'll pull it in the next week or so an start the trim process..stay tuned for pics. but i'll be doing a lil traveling(an miss the V2Labs meet) so no big rush..
so small success!!!! i have figured out the issue with the ML sub and the audio control LCQ1.. apparently the oem amp needs to see a proper load to give a stable output.. whats needed is a 12ohm 100watt resistor ( 5 bucks on fleabay) wired across the input leads(one side to positive and the other to negative) before its connected to the processor.. this should work on any audio control processor that has "accuBASS" the accubass corrects the roll off of the factory amp above half volume.....its the only processor that i have found to correct the roll off.. the LCQ1 has an eq built in so you can fine tune your bass.. if u add the remote bass ****.. now u can adjust the output level from the drivers seat as well as turn on or off any bass boost u set up..
so if your like me an the wife complains theres toooo much bass.. simply tap the **** and your back to factory settings..but fear not you can still increase the bass to a reasonable level with the eq off..its just diminished from the eq settings
so small success!!!! i have figured out the issue with the ML sub and the audio control LCQ1.. apparently the oem amp needs to see a proper load to give a stable output.. whats needed is a 12ohm 100watt resistor ( 5 bucks on fleabay) wired across the input leads(one side to positive and the other to negative) before its connected to the processor.. this should work on any audio control processor that has "accuBASS" the accubass corrects the roll off of the factory amp above half volume.....its the only processor that i have found to correct the roll off.. the LCQ1 has an eq built in so you can fine tune your bass.. if u add the remote bass ****.. now u can adjust the output level from the drivers seat as well as turn on or off any bass boost u set up..
so if your like me an the wife complains theres toooo much bass.. simply tap the **** and your back to factory settings..but fear not you can still increase the bass to a reasonable level with the eq off..its just diminished from the eq settings
that whats up man!!! Once again comin thru! Sure would of been nice for you to tell us that in person at Luxury Car Meet 4 here in ATL
Good looking out. I'll check locally and see if anyone has it, if not, I'll order one monday. Its right on time since Im also going to probably rip the system out and start that over along with the wheels.
This just in Mark Levinston has FINALLY met its match!!! Meet the New Alpine PXE-X09!!! 16 (low or high level) input channels & 16 output channels!! More than enough to handle the ML audio processing w/o losing the Dolby Dts 7.3 built into the car.. (back story.. i currently have 3 Eqs, (2) 12 channel crossovers going to 2 Mmats Pro Audio Hifi 6150 6 channel amps & 1 Mmats Pro Audio 2000.5 )
Now I still need the amps.. but 5 components replaced by 1!!! PRICELESS!!!! 10 band Parametric or Graphic input Eq (per channel) 31 band Parametric or Graphic output Eq (per channel) built in xover with time alignment That can be tuned from a laptop or your smartphone!!!