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Control arm kits

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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 05:03 PM
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Actually, I didn’t mark anything. I probably should’ve but I took detailed pictures knowing that I had to get it very close to what it was. Let me ask you a question. All that’s going to do is affect my alignment correct? Will I be able to drive it to the shop 2 miles away?
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 05:23 PM
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It is going to affect your alignment regardless. Just set roughly the front wheels to look straight ahead, you should be good for 2 miles.
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Anfanger
It is going to affect your alignment regardless. Just set roughly the front wheels to look straight ahead, you should be good for 2 miles.
ok. Worst case I’ll call a tow truck if it’s driving very bad. Def harder job on AWD. I only found videos on rwd but I tackled this anyways. Wasn’t too fun but I will be very happy when done and back on road.
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 05:40 PM
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Many of us had similar experience. I had to cut out all my lower control arms because the bolts were fuses to bushing sleeves.
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Anfanger
Many of us had similar experience. I had to cut out all my lower control arms because the bolts were fuses to bushing sleeves.
holy crap.
, I think I saw that thread on here. That’s a nightmare of a job. Since this is not my every day car, I don’t mind it sitting, but I could save myself some money on the repairs. Half the shops local to me anyway they didn’t even wanna do this which is kinda pathetic. I always work on all my cars, but this is my first Lexus.
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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 2011LS460awd
Actually, I didn’t mark anything. I probably should’ve but I took detailed pictures knowing that I had to get it very close to what it was.
When I work on my own vehicles if the car went straight down the road/didn't pull or have uneven wear patterns I mark and reassemble then drive and if it's still good I leave it at that, it's mostly just camber and toe with Toyota products unless you can convince someone to start manipulating a subframe and that can be time consuming at best.

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Old Apr 6, 2025 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Gerf
When I work on my own vehicles if the car went straight down the road/didn't pull or have uneven wear patterns I mark and reassemble then drive and if it's still good I leave it at that, it's mostly just camber and toe with Toyota products unless you can convince someone to start manipulating a subframe and that can be time consuming at best.
ok good to know. Makes sense. Simple enough
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 07:30 AM
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Alright finally tackling right side. I seem to be missing that small rod/nut bolt setup that hangs. Sorry not sure of what to call it or what it does. Attaches to lower rearward arm. Can someone steer me on the correct name and if required on passenger side. Left side had it. Thanks
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 07:56 AM
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I think, your car has coils. If it is the case, you are not going to have anything installed there. If you had air suspension, you would have a height sensor over there.
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Anfanger
I think, your car has coils. If it is the case, you are not going to have anything installed there. If you had air suspension, you would have a height sensor over there.
yes coils ok thanks.

lower rearward cam slide is stuck in control arm. Spent hours. I may cut out. Anyone know of a place that sells them. Most are 2 weeks shipping lead time.
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 08:29 AM
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This one. Not sure part number
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Old Apr 13, 2025 | 11:52 AM
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Well, I had to cut out the right lower rearward “bolt”. It’s very hard to figure out the part number. Everything looks the same on the computer. Now it looks like I have to do the lower front one as well. Can anybody steer me in the correct direction?please
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Striker223
I would really recommend to do all 8, I have had way more luck (zero comebacks) with all 8 vs sometimes if I only do uppers something else wears out fast.

I agree, as long as the mechanic is pulling some, pull them all!!! They MUST be positioned under loadFor a detailed guide on the replacement process, you can refer to these videos:
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by scawley
I agree, as long as the mechanic is pulling some, pull them all!!! They MUST be positioned under loadFor a detailed guide on the replacement process, you can refer to these videos:

great info. Yea what I did was put a jack under the hub. Jack stand under front from. Jack up spindle hub until car just lifts off the jack stand and than tighten down.
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Old Apr 18, 2025 | 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 2011LS460awd
great info. Yea what I did was put a jack under the hub. Jack stand under front from. Jack up spindle hub until car just lifts off the jack stand and than tighten down.
I just want to give an update. I’m learning a hard lesson here. Anyone who attempts this repair please do yourself a favor and order not just the control arms but all the hardware. My drivers side was very smooth. Passenger the bolts in the sleeve are all seized. Everything I’ve done so far doesn’t work. Attempting again with a rigged up grinder to be able to get in this hard to reach spot without moving my axel out. I think I would’ve rather paid anyone to do this job. 🤣🫣
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