I am contemplating using Denso 221-4100 With Towing Radiator. For those who have used this radiator, have they held up? Or are there advantages to using the non-towing model Denso 221-3170, since my car did not come with the towing package? Or another radiator?

Also, may replace rubber footings and top brackets, since there is quite a bit of play. Or could just bend the top brackets? But 20 year old rubber becomes pretty stiff. Planning to get OEM hoses, since have heard that fit is better.

Also, should I replace the rubber transmission fluid hoses that connect to radiator, and does anyone have part numbers?

Thanks.

 

I think we have documented cases here, of the Denso failing prematurely multiple times. Also cases where they were fine.

Just yesterday I was trying to decide should I pay $121 for a OE GM water pump, or should I pay $75 (went up) for a OEM GM water pump. Comments on amazon stated OE is made in Canada and has a metal gasket, OEM is made in China and has a paper gasket. Both come with the torque to yield bolts, they cost $3 ea at a dealer. Then, Gates which I do trust is like $35. I went for OE.

The kicker? Someone posted a pic of the packaging and I could see, that unlike many GM parts, OE is different than OEM on this water pump. As mentnioned, some parts like air filters and cabin filters, identical package but OE has an additional GM hologram.

I wonder if anyone has ever gotten a dealer radiator, and a Denso aftermarket, and taken pics and showed what the difference is.

p.s. right here right now I would order a dealer radiator and blow some $$$$. That's what I would do. And with my Nissan I bought the bottom bushings but did not need them, only the top...I just figure if it failed prematurely, even with a warranty, it's not worth dealing with coolant etc. Again I'm not always one to go OE, like with the timing belt kit, Aisin is my choice. But the radiator I want the dealer part...

 

I installed the Denso Tow Pkg rad a little over a year ago and it's doing just fine through 2 Arizona summers. One thing I immediately noticed after the install, while doing a transmission drain/fill, allowing the car to warm up to temp to check the ATF level took 11 minutes. Prior to installing the tow pkg rad this warm-up time always took exactly 7 minutes. I use the jumper wire method where the shift indicator lights flash when the engine hits a temp conducive for checking the ATF level.

When is the car due for its next timing belt service? This is a great time to replace the radiator.

If you're concerned about the upper and lower bushings I would definitely order and replace the bottom pair as you can always evaluate the uppers and replace them at any time after the fact.

The oil cooler lines are pricey but they will be the correct metric ID size. Buying bulk hose from retail auto parts store will be inch sized and not an exact fit.
32921-50050 and 32922-50050

 

Does anyone know how much transmission fluid is lost or left in the radiator when the radiator is replaced?

 

It depends how fast you are plugging the hoses after you remove them. I put foam earplugs into the rubber lines when removed to prevent leaks. The heat exchanger in the radiator holds very little as it's just a tube from one port to the other. You will lose maybe an ounce of trans fluid, not enough to really even register on the dipstick.

 

Thanks for the info. At 135K my car has original timing belt. In regards to the radiator, it definitely needs to be done now due to weeping fluid across the top. The radiator is a challenge I could take on myself. My thought was to do the radiator and decide whether to go forward with the timing belt on my own or have someone else do it. Most likely the timing belt is beyond my cabilities, although I could set aside three days to work on it.

 

Unless towing or maybe extremely hot conditions it's a disadvantage to use this radiator in my opinion. You want the car to warm up and operate at temp as quickly as possible.

 

The warm up period is determined by the coolant capacity of the engine itself and the thermostat. Radiator capacity is irrelevant when the thermostat is closed. That being said, there is no difference in capacity between the "towing" and "non-towing" package radiators. I've installed two of them and couldn't find any differences between them and the OEM ones.