2004 - 2006 Lexus LS430 operational running costs
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Oxfordshire
2004 - 2006 Lexus LS430 operational running costs
Hey all,
I'm new to the forum and I was hoping you guys could help me.
So I'm currently researching 2004 - 2006 LS430 models and I've heard great things about them: from affordable luxury to reliability, but I had a few questions.
The big thing for me is long term running costs and reliability, so basically how reliable are these amazing cars? What sort of yearly running costs do you guys face on average if possible? What sort of things tend to need repairing and/or replacing?
In terms of what to look out for when purchasing, what should I look out for in particular? Naturally rust on the body work, but also the condition of the air suspension etc. What sort of things do you guys recommend?
A huge thank you in advance for any responses.
Paddy
I'm new to the forum and I was hoping you guys could help me.
So I'm currently researching 2004 - 2006 LS430 models and I've heard great things about them: from affordable luxury to reliability, but I had a few questions.
The big thing for me is long term running costs and reliability, so basically how reliable are these amazing cars? What sort of yearly running costs do you guys face on average if possible? What sort of things tend to need repairing and/or replacing?
In terms of what to look out for when purchasing, what should I look out for in particular? Naturally rust on the body work, but also the condition of the air suspension etc. What sort of things do you guys recommend?
A huge thank you in advance for any responses.
Paddy
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 128
From: GA
Running costs are really minimal except the following.
Tires don't last long are are expensive. It is a heavy car. Depending how much you drive, count on $1000 michelins every 30K or so.
Air suspension. Avoiding will minimize costs but if you must have it then around $1000 per air strut. or spend $1500 or so to convert car to non-air.
Mirrors will probably give you problems. replacements will be expensive but if you forgo folding function then it won't cost you money, just the absence of the feature.
Door locks will probably give you problems. DIY is close to free but dealer quoted $1200 per door when mine went out. I had it go out on 2 doors till now. Both times I did DIY and it costed me total of $12 plus 4 hours of DIY time.
Lower control arm bushings will probably need to be changed at some point.
Motor and engine mounts may need to be changed although some people have never changed then even 200K+ and have no issues.
As far as the drivetrain, you will probably fine just changing oil when needed. It just takes 5 qts. I drained and refilled transmission thrice but that is because I am OCD.
Most people do not have issues with alternator but I changed mine twice till now.
It just depends if you are going to run to the dealer or other mechanics for every issue. If so, avoid this car. This is still a top of the line V8 and parts/labor costs a lot.
Tires don't last long are are expensive. It is a heavy car. Depending how much you drive, count on $1000 michelins every 30K or so.
Air suspension. Avoiding will minimize costs but if you must have it then around $1000 per air strut. or spend $1500 or so to convert car to non-air.
Mirrors will probably give you problems. replacements will be expensive but if you forgo folding function then it won't cost you money, just the absence of the feature.
Door locks will probably give you problems. DIY is close to free but dealer quoted $1200 per door when mine went out. I had it go out on 2 doors till now. Both times I did DIY and it costed me total of $12 plus 4 hours of DIY time.
Lower control arm bushings will probably need to be changed at some point.
Motor and engine mounts may need to be changed although some people have never changed then even 200K+ and have no issues.
As far as the drivetrain, you will probably fine just changing oil when needed. It just takes 5 qts. I drained and refilled transmission thrice but that is because I am OCD.
Most people do not have issues with alternator but I changed mine twice till now.
It just depends if you are going to run to the dealer or other mechanics for every issue. If so, avoid this car. This is still a top of the line V8 and parts/labor costs a lot.
Moderator
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 244
From: Milwaukee, Wi
You're probably looking at an engine change at about the 1,500,000 mile mark, the transmission no doubt will need to be replaced around the 730,000 mile mark. Door hinges will probably need to be replaced at 600,000 miles. Rear differential Will probably need to be replaced around the 500,000 mile mark. New wheelbearings, or hubs at around 300,000 miles......
in all seriousness, Ive put close to 90,000 miles on my car in the last three years, (bought it with 104K and currently just shy of 194K) and all I've done is oil changes, new tires, brakes, a throttlebody cleaning, lower control arm bushings and a transmission mount just for peace of mind. I am going to do the timing belt when I'm on vacation in June, so that will set me up for another hundred thousand miles or so.
I know it's been said many times, but you really would be hard-pressed to find a more reliable vehicle. I may be a little biased, but it really is amazing how well built these cars are.
in all seriousness, Ive put close to 90,000 miles on my car in the last three years, (bought it with 104K and currently just shy of 194K) and all I've done is oil changes, new tires, brakes, a throttlebody cleaning, lower control arm bushings and a transmission mount just for peace of mind. I am going to do the timing belt when I'm on vacation in June, so that will set me up for another hundred thousand miles or so.
I know it's been said many times, but you really would be hard-pressed to find a more reliable vehicle. I may be a little biased, but it really is amazing how well built these cars are.
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 61
Likes: 3
From: Texas
These are used cars. People trade them in or sell them when something they don’t want to fix comes up. There are a few that Dad or Mom can’t drive anymore, and maybe there are no kids close buy and no one wants a V8.
Keeps some money in reserve, and go in with your eyes wide open. I bought a very very clean 2005 Ultra Luxury model, with just a hair over 60,000 miles. Searched for the right car for a little over year. I needed rear brakes, timing belt and rear differential oil change; about $2,000 at the dealership. It probably would have been $1,400 at a specialist shop, but I didn’t want to drive it 900 miles back home without the TB being done.
I would do do it all over again today. Since these repairs, I did lose the ECU for the radar cruise control ($1,000). I figure the previous owner who drove all of 4,000 miles a year likely never turned it on. So, it wasn’t unexpected. I’ve made several long distance road trips over a thousand miles one-way. No issues, and I absolutely trust the car to take me where I need to go. Been over 100 mph, quite a few times and it was smooth as silk. My first 10k is under my belt with no further repairs. I plan on keeping it for the next ten years, what would I ever replace it with??
Keeps some money in reserve, and go in with your eyes wide open. I bought a very very clean 2005 Ultra Luxury model, with just a hair over 60,000 miles. Searched for the right car for a little over year. I needed rear brakes, timing belt and rear differential oil change; about $2,000 at the dealership. It probably would have been $1,400 at a specialist shop, but I didn’t want to drive it 900 miles back home without the TB being done.
I would do do it all over again today. Since these repairs, I did lose the ECU for the radar cruise control ($1,000). I figure the previous owner who drove all of 4,000 miles a year likely never turned it on. So, it wasn’t unexpected. I’ve made several long distance road trips over a thousand miles one-way. No issues, and I absolutely trust the car to take me where I need to go. Been over 100 mph, quite a few times and it was smooth as silk. My first 10k is under my belt with no further repairs. I plan on keeping it for the next ten years, what would I ever replace it with??
Lead Lap
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,682
Likes: 304
I have my 2001 LS430 for 9 years. Purchased with 98,000 miles. Now has about 136,000 miles. I do very little driving. I will not even attempt to add up the cost of ownership over almost a decade......but it's quite a bit. Nothing major but regardless between tires, batteries, brakes, rotors, bushings, speakers, and a number of other relatively minor but not cheap items I'm sure I've spent many thousands. Still cheap if I had to buy a similar newer luxo barge equivalent to the LS430. As DavidSofia mentions.....keep your eyes wide open. Owning an LS430 is not a free ride. Yes it is reliable and most likely will not leave your stranded, but the small items will add up if you keep the car long term. Regardless, I wouldn't trade it for anything else out there other than another LS430 which is not happening anytime soon.
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 430
Likes: 11
From: CA
Interesting. I've owned my LS since it was brand new and (excluding oil changes, battery, tires, brakes, TB change - all DIY) I've spent in the low HUNDREDS in mechanical repair costs but thousands in body repair from minor fender benders. Best car I've ever owned. None of the things people have mentioned in this thread have gone out on my car.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,574
Likes: 390
From: PA
Put it this way, I seem to be just like everybody else...I purchased a 2006 with 81k, in Oct. 2016. Really, the only thing that broke were two front left park assist sensors.
I did pay to have the timing belt done ($850), had lower control arm bushings pressed in ($450), these two items probably are a given on 10 y.o. cars.
imho somewhere around 2004 to 2008, the best cars were built period, and the LS430 is no exception. I was looking for a car to replace my 1998 Maxima SE, as far as reliability goes. Then, I was hoping to find something I would enjoy driving. The LS430 fits the bill. Is it thirsty being a V8? Not really....I get 19.x commuting to work, which is about a 1.5 mpg penalty over the Maxima. Probably worth it actually....hard to go wrong--not impossible, but hard...
I did pay to have the timing belt done ($850), had lower control arm bushings pressed in ($450), these two items probably are a given on 10 y.o. cars.
imho somewhere around 2004 to 2008, the best cars were built period, and the LS430 is no exception. I was looking for a car to replace my 1998 Maxima SE, as far as reliability goes. Then, I was hoping to find something I would enjoy driving. The LS430 fits the bill. Is it thirsty being a V8? Not really....I get 19.x commuting to work, which is about a 1.5 mpg penalty over the Maxima. Probably worth it actually....hard to go wrong--not impossible, but hard...
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Advanced
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 627
Likes: 76
From: Wisconsin
I've owned my 2004 ML LS430 for 18 months now. Here is a link to the first post I made on this forum outlining what some of the issues I needed to deal with. Since then, I've spent a total of $1477 on maintenance and parts for repairs not including the cost for a set of winter and summer tires.
I've got it to a point now where everything is functional and all of the maintenance is up to date. I am not expecting to have to spend all that much money on repairs at this point for hopefully, a good long while. I do have an advantage as I perform all of my wrenching myself and have likely saved about $4000 in repair costs compared to if I had taken the car to the dealer to have the same repairs and maintenance performed.
Do you due diligence when you find the car that you're interested in. If it passes muster and you end up buying it I don't think you will have any regrets.
Good luck...
I've got it to a point now where everything is functional and all of the maintenance is up to date. I am not expecting to have to spend all that much money on repairs at this point for hopefully, a good long while. I do have an advantage as I perform all of my wrenching myself and have likely saved about $4000 in repair costs compared to if I had taken the car to the dealer to have the same repairs and maintenance performed.
Do you due diligence when you find the car that you're interested in. If it passes muster and you end up buying it I don't think you will have any regrets.
Good luck...
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Oxfordshire
Hi all,
Many thanks for all of your replies everyone. I'm definitely seeing a theme of servicing costs being quite high but overall reliability is excellent.
@ BMW7_LS430 - does it just tend to be the folding ability in the mirrors that have problems? Also how often did you change your alternators?
@ 2KHarrier - haha that did crack me up! Thanks for your input.
@ Davidsofia - yes when I embark on purchasing one of these, I'm definitely going to keep some money in reserve! Also I'm not thinking about doing work at a dealership as they're really expensive! I'm currently sourcing good specialists.
@ Bocatrip - definitely point taken. You did mentioned speakers though. I've heard that subs can blow relatively easily on these - did yours blow?
@ campisi - wow so how long have you had your LS? That's impressive!
@ Johnhav430 - how much if I may ask did you pay for the park assist sensors? Was it at a dealership too?
@ MedicalDoc - surely that will not affect responses and problems that much? I'm basically looking for common themes, costings, things to look out for etc... I hope that's ok?
@ Gronemus - that thread you linked is very useful so thank you very much. I'll take a look at it.
Paddy
Many thanks for all of your replies everyone. I'm definitely seeing a theme of servicing costs being quite high but overall reliability is excellent.
@ BMW7_LS430 - does it just tend to be the folding ability in the mirrors that have problems? Also how often did you change your alternators?
@ 2KHarrier - haha that did crack me up! Thanks for your input.
@ Davidsofia - yes when I embark on purchasing one of these, I'm definitely going to keep some money in reserve! Also I'm not thinking about doing work at a dealership as they're really expensive! I'm currently sourcing good specialists.
@ Bocatrip - definitely point taken. You did mentioned speakers though. I've heard that subs can blow relatively easily on these - did yours blow?
@ campisi - wow so how long have you had your LS? That's impressive!
@ Johnhav430 - how much if I may ask did you pay for the park assist sensors? Was it at a dealership too?
@ MedicalDoc - surely that will not affect responses and problems that much? I'm basically looking for common themes, costings, things to look out for etc... I hope that's ok?
@ Gronemus - that thread you linked is very useful so thank you very much. I'll take a look at it.
Paddy
Driver
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 174
Likes: 10
From: SC
Purchased an 04' in 2011 with 81k on it. I now have 183k on the dial. Since buying, I have had door actuator replaced ($430.00, under extended warranty I purchased), starter replaced (can't remember cost, but also under warranty), timing belt and water pump replaced ($788 out of pocket), a transmission hose coming loose (drained transmission fluid and stranded me, but minimal cost to repair), and on 3rd set of tires. Primacy MXV4 set gave me 46k, Premier AS set gave me 48k, and the Defender T&H set I have on now is rated at 80k. By the way, the Defender is the quietest and smoothest of the 3 Michelin brands I have had on the car. Other than those expenses, oil changes and a couple batteries have been it. I DIY'ed the throttle body cleaning, MAF sensor cleaning, and spark plugs. DIY the brakes.
These cars are truly a pleasure to own.
These cars are truly a pleasure to own.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,574
Likes: 390
From: PA
On the park assist sensors, I haven't fixed yet, but bought the $14 eBay knock-offs, so that's $28 less a 20% discount. They are in the left front corner, so are supposed to be accessible without removing the bumper....fingers crossed. I've gotten used to no park assist, but I like having it working....
Tires:
don't know what it is about my '04 UL with air susp removed long long ago, but I'm up to 292000 miles, and both Michelin MXV4 and also Kumho Solus (17") give me 65k-70k miles always. I keep them at 37-38 psi on dealer's recommendation; ride quality doesn't seem to suffer.
Other stuff:
2 LCA bushings, and my 12 ton press can barely manage but it gets them in and out so very economical
1 fouled fuel injector; felt trapped, went to Toyoyta dealer, spent $600; my only big spend ever.
1 radiator; new Denso was under $100 and very easy to replace
(1) electric radiator fan set: $125 at salvage yard; I think I read I might have been able to rehab the old fans (replace brushes and clean out excessive carbon where it doesn't belong?)
(1) modded my rear lower control arms to be adjustable for camber: fun and cheap project (I should have marketed that trick and retired by now)
Looking back, I don't believe a Camry would have been much less $ to operate all those miles.
Just returned from a 500 mile trip; BUT: I am starting to get worried all those 292k miles things I have never replaced. So she'll probably get relegated to backup duty around town.
don't know what it is about my '04 UL with air susp removed long long ago, but I'm up to 292000 miles, and both Michelin MXV4 and also Kumho Solus (17") give me 65k-70k miles always. I keep them at 37-38 psi on dealer's recommendation; ride quality doesn't seem to suffer.
Other stuff:
2 LCA bushings, and my 12 ton press can barely manage but it gets them in and out so very economical
1 fouled fuel injector; felt trapped, went to Toyoyta dealer, spent $600; my only big spend ever.
1 radiator; new Denso was under $100 and very easy to replace
(1) electric radiator fan set: $125 at salvage yard; I think I read I might have been able to rehab the old fans (replace brushes and clean out excessive carbon where it doesn't belong?)
(1) modded my rear lower control arms to be adjustable for camber: fun and cheap project (I should have marketed that trick and retired by now)
Looking back, I don't believe a Camry would have been much less $ to operate all those miles.
Just returned from a 500 mile trip; BUT: I am starting to get worried all those 292k miles things I have never replaced. So she'll probably get relegated to backup duty around town.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 128
From: GA
Hi all,
Many thanks for all of your replies everyone. I'm definitely seeing a theme of servicing costs being quite high but overall reliability is excellent.
@ BMW7_LS430 - does it just tend to be the folding ability in the mirrors that have problems? Also how often did you change your alternators?
Many thanks for all of your replies everyone. I'm definitely seeing a theme of servicing costs being quite high but overall reliability is excellent.
@ BMW7_LS430 - does it just tend to be the folding ability in the mirrors that have problems? Also how often did you change your alternators?
Changed alternator twice. Once at 90K and again now at 113K. Part during the second replacement had no additional cost due to lifetime replacement warranty from AutoZone. It is not a difficult DIY.
If it helps, My total repair and maintenance (brakes/tires/oil/filter etc.) costs over 9 years is around $3K.
$1100 of it was really my mistake for tightening lug nuts too much resulting in rounded studs. This was the only dealer service.
60K service was at an Indy for $200 and rest was all DIY.
I probably paid $10K in insurance costs in those years. I don't know what to do about that.
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