I have ordered OEM caster bushings (LCA bushings) to have installed by my Indy shop for my 01 LS430 with 132,000 miles. The originals have been cracked since I purchased the car over 8 years ago and all the fluid inside of them has leaked out about 2 years ago. I have no noises or play in steering. All tires have worn evenly. I have read numerous posts that replacing them will not make any noticeable difference. Even the tech at my Indy shop who worked for Lexus told me the same thing. I had them inspected a few days ago and although cracked there is no play in them. I wanted to replace them because I'm getting a new set of tires this week and will be doing an alignment anyway. They were cheap at $100 for two and labor will probably be $100+ to press out old and press new in. Am I just wasting my time and money?

 

I don't think it will make any difference....where it makes a difference is say when a person grabs the control arm, and because the bushing is so bad, it can be moved (I have seen youtubes showing my 4th Gen Maxima in this state). At the same time, if it's going to cost you $200, you have nothing to lose. I spent $124 or so on the OE bushings, and another I believe $250 to have them pressed out and in. Are you wasting your money? No, I don't think so, the Lexus dealer will recommend this job as soon as they see cracks, and they want over $1,400. $200 is two family lunches out, yet will last 10 years on your LS430....my .02....

 

On my '01, I had a slight vibration at 60 (after good tires carefully balanced 2x). Also a clunk when turning at slow speeds. Had the LCA's replaced. End of both problems. Was the replace a must do? No but I'm pleased with the outcome. Just my .01

 

I would call it preventative maintenance but considering the miles and the age I'm sure they are due whether you realize it or not. I think you'll be surprised with the results. Front end components especially, as they are all linked together, have a tendency to put excess strain on neighboring parts when failing. When one becomes compromised, and gets ignored, other front end parts suffer prematurely as well. Consider it a $200 investment in the overall health of you front end!

 

I would recommend a 4 wheel alignment afterwards....my car was very out the first time I took it in, after the LCA bushings....that seemed to be bang for buck, ever since, my car has been smooth as silk (embarrassed to say smoother than my BMW with 1/2 the miles and totally aligned too). I paid like $169 at Firestone for the lifetime, and may drop it off Friday to check what's happened in about 7-8k since the last one. I know the name "Firestone" sounds bad, but really they seem competent....my rear right could not be brought to within -1.8 and was at -1.9, doesn't seem to matter that much....

 

FYI...The rear right camber is usually a problem in many cars as well as the LS430.. Of course I'm planning on getting an alignment and if the entire thread was read you might see..... one reason I am installing the LCA bushings now is because I'm purchasing new Pirelli P7s and was planning on the alignment anyway! Why do alignment twice if I'm replacing front suspension parts right??

 

Correct me if I am wrong. But from what I understand the rear suspension is set and nothing can be aligned as ther is no agestment on any of the arms in the back. The only way is to get longer or shorter arms to correct any camber, toe, caster issues.

 

Here's the Toe-in adjustment procedure...

 

How's your steering wheel centered....when I bought my car, the wheel was off to the left....after the alignment, PERFECT. So besides all the values going from red to green, except the rear right camber, the perfectly centered steering wheel was worth the $169 alone (but I figure after the 3rd alignment I'll clearly have broken even and they are truly free going forward)....

p.s. I'm planning on dropping the car off for a realign tomorrow, will be interesting to see if the values changed in about 7,500.....my wife's car did in under 6k, prolly hit things I guess (one strut and two sway bar links replaced under extended warranty and dealer only aligned one wheel because only one strut was replaced, go figure)

 

Personally, if my tires are wearing evenly, I wouldn't bother with an alignment unless I did any suspension work or something was damaged. My steering wheel is dead center now and all my Primacys are wearing evenly. I'm crossing my fingers that the Pirelli P7s wear as evenly as the Primacys have. I wouldn't be getting new tires if it were not for getting a screw in the very outer edges of the tread. Only a plug would work because it was close to the outer edge and of course I am not comfortable driving this way. Even if I had road hazard which i will with the P7s it wouldn't work as the Primacys are out of production. Too bad because the tires have over 6/32nds left. No big deal. It's part of ownership. PS...I'm planning on using the same Indy alignment tech I used the last time if he's still out the same outfit.

 

On my BMW, the original front tires were scalloped since about 9k miles on the vehicle, while the vehicle was perfectly aligned and the wheels balanced. The dealer showed me the printout at the time, and stated this is a function of the tires. There was a Bridgestone TSB at the time, but not for cars with a staggered setup like mine. Specifically, these were RE050A runflats, and the dealer explained the sidewalls are super stiff and there is nothing wrong with the car (prolly BMW made a poor OE choice, I never understood why a car made in Germany would come with tires made in Japan, endorsement I guess just like at the time Castrol motor oil (owned by BP) which is actually stamped onto the vehicle, not merely a sticker that can be changed, and now they switched to Shell). Will be interesting if the Pilot Super Sports do the same, I bet they do not....

edit p.s. I used to plug my own tires despite my colleague telling me I would never jeopardize the lives of my family like that, patch only etc. I would even break the rule on how close to the edge it can be, to include plugging runflats (I'm not paying $400 times 2 for a simple screw in a tire). What I have found was that if the plug is close to the edge, and said tire is mounted on the front, it will begin to leak very quickly. If it is kept on the rear, it will never leak. Don't get me wrong, I would never, ever, plug if it's on the sidewall. I am so glad to be out of that business by going with Costco.