pete63

I have a 2001 LS430 in UK and have owned it for about 2 years. I jump in it 1 day and the ignition only partly turns and doesn't get to start the engine. I wrestle with it for a while, still no joy. The key fob operates the doors etc. but it will not start. I have a bloke come out from a key programming company, checks the key - all ok, then the steering lock comes on and we can't get it off. So I have a beached 430 and absolutely disappointed with it. It's done 108,000 miles which I don't think is any distance at all for such a motor with the prestige and reliability associated with the brand. 40 odd grands worth when new with a 2 quid steering lock. Does anybody out there know of any solution to this problem- surgical or otherwise - as I've seen a few postings on the net with the same thing but no real answer. Am I down to scrapping the car ? Regards, Pete.

rkw77080

Does your security indicator light flashes before you insert the key blade? Does it go off when you insert the key blade, or continue to flash?



You mentioned "...then the steering lock comes on and we can't get it off." Can you elaborate on the steering lock? Is this a warning light? A message on the dashboard?

Jabberwock

There are cases where the key will not turn due to a steering lock problem. getting the key to turn is usually accomplished by turning the steering wheel just slightly to the right or left to take the pressure off the lock pawl mechanism allowing the key to turn ignition on. I can't recall this problem ever locking in a key, and stopping a key from coming back out of the ignition switch but you might want to try just slight movement of steering wheel to right or left while attempting to turn or remove key.

If this fails you might have to pull the ignition switch out of the steering column to repair or replace the lock. Good luck.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the shift **** is completely in park. Sometimes you have to give it a little push to the left.

Johnhav430

I hope this is an uncommon issue....when I first got the LS430 last Oct., after hearing the lock in the steering column operating electrically, I thought of this problem on 2006 BMWs

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=483387

There was a time when people could steal cars with only a flathead screwdriver, and so there was imho a need for a column lock, so a thief could not steer (weren't we always taught to curb the wheels in driver ed). But those days are gone. If I am not mistaken, my 2007 BMW does not have a column lock, that was the fix to avoid all of the above. Modern cars are disabled already when a key is not present. I suppose one could say what about a tow truck, if the steering column doesn't lock, someone repossessing the vehicle will have an easier time, or even a thief with a flatbed, but now we're reaching for a reason (plus tow trucks today have those computer guided arms that simply lift the car out of any situation, even when almost parallel to the vehicle they want)....my .02 and good luck I'd be curious to know what the issue is....

pete63

Thank you for your suggestions / replies.

Because the steering wheel is locked in a position that covers up the fixing screws, I had to butcher off the console that surrounds the ignition switch and associated spaghetti.

Directly on top of this ignition switch is a cheap looking, grey steel oblong block with a covered cable about a foot long coming out of the back which in turn, goes into a further larger and shinier steel box attached to the steering column.

I plucked out this grey oblong with a flat head screwdriver and noticed that there is a raised button or nipple that corresponds with a hollow in the ignition switch top. When you operate the ignition, the button is pulled which in turn pulls the cable (like a bike brake) which then unlocks something on the column within the larger shiny box.

Fact is, when I popped out the grey oblong, I connected the battery, turned the ignition just to see what happened and it started first time after being sat for about 6 weeks. However, the steering is still locked in position.

So the conclusion is that it's whatever that's in the shiny box has the fault and not the ignition.

The part number I can see on the ignition is PA66GF30 and the shiny box has CF87 0029829 on it.

I don't know if anybody is familiar with these bits but the mystery shiny box seems very difficult to get at.

Now I can describe my situation a bit better, I'll have to take it to a specialist and get a price to fix it.

Regards, Pete.

rkw77080

Have you tried turning the steering wheel while turning the key as suggested in Post #3?

Johnhav430

As I understand the issue as described, OP has tried turning the wheel, which is a means of relieving pressure on the lock. But the lock is inoperable.

The lock, which I believe to be electronic, based on what I hear every time I turn the key to ON, and to OFF, seems to have failed. If this is the case, it appears to cause a lot of problems, like it did in the 2006 BMW, meaning it's not something where we can pull a fuse like with the tilt and telescope....

edit in plain English, if you look at the BMW, it has something similar to our door actuators, locking and unlocking the steering column, and it fails. I really think that even though this lock is unneeded, even if it's needed, it should be mechanical, because same thing, motor with plastic teeth...

edit2 the clicking is caused by simply pushing the key switch in, you can push it many times in succession and hear the motor/click, no twisting is needed to cause the switch to actuate. Hopefully it's not that often that the mechanism breaks.

edit3 deliberately locked my wheel with pressure on the lock mechanism. It's not different than any other old car that still does that. The difference is, that instead of turning a key to take the lock off, an electric motor does it. You don't have to turn the key at all--press the switch in. If that electric motor fails, one is not going to be able to unlock the wheel, just like the 2006 BMW. BMW got rid of it, so only specific older years are affected. From the BMW pics, the motor that fails probably costs $5 like the Lexus door actuator (the guy has it completely taken apart and shown in the thread). imho car cos. have to either deploy high quality components, which adds to cost, or just eliminate the low cost/quality ones where they're not really needed.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8813186&postcount=4