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Lately my passenger front door speaker makes a vibrating noise (best way to describe it) when the bass hits a note. Or if I am going through some rough bumps in the road (when the music is off) it will make that vibrating/jingle noise? I know it has something to do with the speaker itself, unless it isn't.. Anyone have any recommendations on what this could be? I'd rather not go aftermarket YET, if possible I'd rather just replace the part if it is cheap. Let me know what you guys think! Happy Holidays!
The speaker surrounds do fail on the Mark Levinson speakers after some time. More than likely that's the problem with yours. I had the same problem with mine when I bought the car a year ago. I took the easy way out and glued the surround back onto the cone, which, a year later, is still working fine.
If you decide to replace the speaker, make sure you keep the OHM requirement correct. installing an aftermarket speaker with a different OHM rating will put undo stress on the amplifier and potentially cause the amp to fail.
There are loads of threads and posts on this subject here, so feel free to peruse those articles and you will become well versed in the audio system on these cars.
Yeah it doesn't seem too expensive, I might just go with the aftermarket route. Can I just replace all the door speakers (4 total?) or what do i have to change out to be completely aftermarket? I have an 02 base model LS430. I would eventually like to get a double din system with a sub and amp but as of now I just want all my speakers replaced because that one making the noise is really bothering me.
There are loads of threads and posts on this subject here, so feel free to peruse those articles and you will become well versed in the audio system on these cars.
According to the repair manual (attached), non-ML front speakers should be 2-ohm (see Inspection Procedure Step #2), and rear speakers should be 4-ohm (see Inspection Procedure Step #4).
So if I have the non-ML system I need to be looking for 4 ohm speakers?
The Non ML have 2 ohm front speakers and 4 ohm rear speakers at least for the 2001 to 2003 models...not sure about 2004 and up so you would have to get speakers to match the ohms or have factory amp issues. I posted earlier about needing a electrical diagram for the factory amp since I will eventually bypass it. If you want to be sure unscrew your factory amp, should be located in the passenger side of the trunk and look at the markings and see what they say.
According to the repair manual (attached), non-ML front speakers should be 2-ohm (see Inspection Procedure Step #2), and rear speakers should be 4-ohm (see Inspection Procedure Step #4).
Just buy the recone kit on ebay for under $20.00. It is a fun DIY and the fix is permanent and reliable. I reconed my front passenger side a year a go....and just this weekend re coned my drivers side speaker. They have step by step videos to walk u through the process....it is very easy.....can be glued and installed in same day.
Note ...previous owner of my car replaced my sub w aftermarket sub.....this caused my amp to blow.....they are very expensive......dont mess with the OHM game.....stay OEM keep your amp happy unless u are gunna replace the entire system.
Just buy the recone kit on ebay for under $20.00. It is a fun DIY and the fix is permanent and reliable. I reconed my front passenger side a year a go....and just this weekend re coned my drivers side speaker. They have step by step videos to walk u through the process....it is very easy.....can be glued and installed in same day.
Note ...previous owner of my car replaced my sub w aftermarket sub.....this caused my amp to blow.....they are very expensive......dont mess with the OHM game.....stay OEM keep your amp happy unless u are gunna replace the entire system.
Yes, what he said. To find non-OEM speakers with matching specs is likely impossible. The refoaming although a little time consuming is very easy to do. In my experience, once refoamed, all of the speakers are pretty much indestructible. I push this system to the limit every day driving my 80 miles to and from work and the only components worth replacing over OEM is the sub and sub amp. I replaced both for less than $200 and it sounds great! When I bought my car the sub was already replaced which likely caused the sub amp to blow. This is the reason I replaced it. If it was the OEM sub I likely would have just refoamed it and it probably would have never blew the sub amp.
Another vote for repairing the speaker surrounds yourself. You won't find the same speakers with the same frequency response anywhere else, and frequency response of the speakers and subwoofer are matched to the internal acoustics of the car (time domain and space domain frequency response calibration).
I repaired my 2002's subwoofer in 2013, using a new $23 USD surround from SimplySpeakers (part # FSK-8M-Toyota), which comes with a tube of the appropriate glue. If my speaker surrounds ever fail, I will definitely repair them myself as well.