Can the rotors be removed without removing the pads? I just installed new pads but am still feeling a vibration. It seams that I shouldn't have to remove the pads from the calipers if I compress the pistons. This should be be like installing loaded calipers. But maybe not. Thanks

 

it'll be a pain putting the caliper back on with pads in.

 

I don't believe you're going to be able to angle and clear the studs. Removing the pads and caliper are not difficult.

 

Pull the caliper off and take the rotor off the hub. To install just do the reverse. No need to pull the pads out of the caliper.

 

Agree...

Remove the 2 caliper bolts and detach the entire caliper assembly together. The brake pad pin and the anti-rattle spring should hold everything in place nicely.

 

Its likely possible but pad removal is so easy on the LS I would remove pads on calipers just to get everything cleaned up and re-lubed if I was installing new rotors. Pulling the pads will make getting calipers back over rotors much easier plus a few minutes worth of extra work to clean pads and calipers makes sure the entire system is in good shape before putting it back together.

 

I just did my 2 rear rotors in < 45mins, first time doing it. I agree with HiloDB1 and can confirm that you do not need to remove the pads to install new rotors. The caliper easily slides over the new rotors with the pads in.

I didn't think anything mechanical was easier to do than changing the pads, which I've done twice on all 4 wheels so far, but now I see that changing rotors is even easier. If you can change a tire, changing a rotor is the same (and my winter tires even use the same socket - 19mm).

 

So what does Lexus charge to change pads?

 

Stan I am about to do the rear rotors on my 2005. While the car is jacked up. do i disengage the e-brake and leave the transmission in park?

did you have to do anything with the e-brake hardware when removing the rear rotors? did you just wack the rotors off or use the thread in bolt method?

Thanks!

 

Make sure the vehicle is properly supported. Chock the wheels. (1) Disengage the e-brake. (2) Remove the caliper bolts, caliper and pads. (3) There may be a rust lip on the rotor that needs to clear the inner e-brake shoes to get the rotor off. Banging the rotor may clear the rust. If not, you may have to back off the e-brake shoe setting to allow the rotor to clear the edge of the brake shoes. Use a bolt in the face of the rotor to help leverage the rotor off, being careful that the rotor is not getting caught up and held by the e-brake shoes. There are threads and videos on this.

 

My OEM rotors were never changed, so they were 14 years old (with 137700 kms). I decided it was time to change due to mild non-steering-wheel shudder while braking at high speeds.

I installed Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors (980199), changed pads recently (13000 km / 1.5yrs ago) using Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramics (ACT870/871), so I saved time by not removing the pads again.

Here's my 10 step process that is 45 minutes from gloves on to gloves off. At least 10 minutes faster if you have one of those floor jacks that raises the car in 3 pumps + cordless impact driver with 19mm socket.

1. Keep car in Park, chock front wheels, then remove e-brake (car may roll back slightly which will secure your chock).
2. Jack up the car - I work in a garage with barely any elbow room, so it takes awhile to turn the scissor jack with a sturdy screwdriver.
3. Undo lugs and remove the wheel. I don't have power tools, so this was all slow, manual work.
4. Remove the 2 19mm caliper bolts. Give the caliper a light yank towards the rear of the car, and don't drop it because it will only be supported by the rubber brake line. Rest the caliper above the knuckle.
5. My rotors were loose at this point and not seized whatsoever, so they easily slid off. If they were seized, I would have used a hammer to carefully/evenly bang it out. Remove the rubber e-brake adjustment plug cover from the old rotor - you'll want to install it on the new rotor.
6. Wear new gloves or get some paper towel, unwrap new rotor, handle by outside edges to ensure you don't get any grease or dirt on any surfaces. Remove dirt from hub if any, then slide the new rotor all the way in. Install e-brake plug cover into the hole that lines up with the adjustment wheel.
7. Clean the 2 bolt holes on the knuckle and clean the 2 bolts unless you are using new ones (service manual states to always use new bolts - they are coated with a friction modifier that prevents loosening during operation which doesn't function if reused). It is important to ensure no dirt gets inside the aluminum knuckle.
8. Wiggle the caliper in - the pads will make contact but caliper easily slides over. Use a flashlight to examine the lower caliper bolt - make sure the hole lines up. Torque lower bolt to 58 ft.lbs, then torque upper bolt to same (service manual says always tighten the bottom bolt first).
9. Put the wheel back on, tighten lugs to 76 ft.lbs evenly using a star pattern.
10. Pump the brakes few times to even out the pistons. Take it for a test drive. Don't get to a high speed or drive in heavy traffic when testing. To avoid transferring pad material unevenly across the rotor, don't come to a sudden stop and hold the pads in one place - keep the rotor moving or apply as little pressure as possible when you need to fully stop.

You may want to look up rotor bedding in procedures, but I think smooth, easy braking, no hard stops for the first 500-1000kms should be fine.

 

Those Raybestos rotors are decently priced on Amazon. $52 and free shipping for each rotor.