arcteryx

@ lav, fyi, the brand on that sensor is Toyoda in Japanese, which most people, incorrectly, refer to it as TEQ. You can read more here along with some pics. http://japantravelcafe.com/japanese-...-2-toyota-logo Anything that has that logo on it is a quality product

I appreciate the write-up, looks like I have another thing to add to the to-do list.

ancdmd

My car has been experiencing a persistent engine knock for a long time... I think I'll change this sensor and see if it helps. Running out of options.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Good idea. Try a bottle of the Dura Lube Severe fuel system cleaner too. It's twice the size to treat our 21 gallons of gas. I think it works well. Walmart has it for $10. I use it every 5k to help keep carbon levels down. Carbon building up on the tops of pistons and / or valve can cause pinging too. In the heat of Miami it's more an issue as you are experiencing. Are you running 93?

ancdmd

Yes I use Shell V-power almost all the time, if not then BP or Chevron premium or some other Top Tier premium. I've run Gumout and a few other products through the car and never noticed a difference. I'm going to try the water decarbonizing method tonight and see if that does anything.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

It sound like something else is going on. I would do the temp sensor of course. It should not be pinging. Is it worse during the heat of the day? There is also the knock sensors themselves but I have never heard of them going bad.

ancdmd

No change with ambient temps. I notice it mostly at higher vehicle speeds. It's most noticeable with heavy throttle, during shifts between gears. Does it at high or low rpms. I've tried to find specific patterns when it occurs but can't find anything definitive. The engine just has a generally lousy feel to it, as if it's handicapped or clogged up, although it does idle well and seems to run smooth. My mechanic has noticed it several times throughout the last few years (during test drives for other issues) but never gave me any sure fire diagnoses, and suggestions have always been just to run some cleaners through the fuel system. A few times I've tried driving around and manually shifting the car to keep the revs high, and I've been able to make it knock really bad right after a down shift followed by heavy throttle.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Normally knocking gets worse the hotter the engine gets. Let us know about the temp sensor. Sounds like your putting that engine through its paces.

Edit: You know, another idea if it's not the temp sensor could be the oil control valves. Those go with age and are part of the vvti. I would take one out and seeing if they have carbon building up.

ancdmd

I thought about the OCVs but kind of ruled them out since I don't have any CELs for them. Also just had both timing tubes replaced in the variable timing system so I'm assuming they are in good condition. Temp sensor will be here in a day or two so we'll see.

ancdmd

Got the sensor replaced last night, I think it's solved my pinging and knocking problem. I took the car for a test drive and the engine is running noticeably better, I got into it several times and the power was smoother and the engine runs quieter. Seems to feel "healthier" with a lot less harshness/chatter when I'm on the throttle either lightly or heavily. Idles better too. I'll be driving about 60 miles more tonight so I will be able to really put it through it's paces, but so far so good.

I think I've had this pinging problem for a least a few years, sure wish I had replaced this sooner. It for sure should be a maintenance item done at the timing belt/spark plug change at around a 100k miles.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Awesome. That's great news! It makes sense. If the sensor was bad and telling the car it's really cold or something the fuel to air ratio will be wrong.

jpcdmd

I replaced my sensor almost a week ago and I'm now averaging just over 21 mpg, up from 19.5 mpg.

LS430inDE.

Hey guys. I will be preparing to do this DIY soon. I have a couple questions....

I think the part # listed (89422-30030) is for 2004 to 2006 LS's. Can someone confirm?

Also, what was the final verdict with Teflon tape or anti-seize, etc, on the threads?

How much/little coolant seeped out of the hole?

Finally, does anyone have the torque spec when tightening?

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what the torque spec is but nothing should be put on the threads. I just tightened until nice and tight based on how it was to remove the sensor. I believe that some part number actually is for all 6 years of the 430.

abbyNormal

Lavrishevo,
Did you do this swap when the engine was stone cold? Did you lose/spill any coolant when you removed the sensor?

AN

arcteryx

I did mine when it was cold, no coolant spilled. took about 30 minutes for everything