My friends ls430 and my ls460.

 

How did they do it?

 

The guy did some rewiring.... Am not sure exactly what was done.

 

Very good post I am trying to wire up my foglights to turn on with the car and off with the car (without ever needing the switch) by jumping 1 pin to another if this is possible.
Where exactly is the foglight relay? I have a JDM LS430 Celsior but the fusebox layout seems different than the USDM LS430. Here are some pics of my engine bay and fuse boxes.

http://forums.jdmvip.com/UCF31_DRL_D...lsior-7275-t#4

Thanks for any help guys.

 

You can remove the existing fog light relay and power the fog lights directly with an alternate ignition-switched 12V power source.

 

I'd prefer just to hack the relay harness. The quickest and easiest way to make the fogs turn on with ignition/acc is good for me.

Is it possible to just jump 2 pins on the relay harness for the fogs to accomplish this?
I am still not sure where my fog relay is because the diagram on the fusebox is missing wrong.

Thanks so much for your help rkw!

 

Your fog light relay is circled in red. To verify if it's the correct one, simply unplug this relay and confirm that the fog lights are no longer operational when you turn them on.

 

rkw thank you so much that did the trick perfectly and it helped me get the car on the road in time for my family in a tricky situation. Once you showed me the pic of the right relay and pin I just ran a wire from the other fusebox from the ignition and plugged into the right pin and the fogs are on with the ignition even if the switch is in the off position (necessary to pass inspection in BC, Canada).

Here is how I did it based on rkw's info:

 

For a more permanent installation, you should consider using a fuse tap (see photo below) to extract power. Here's why... Every fuse has 2 conductor legs - one connects to the power source, and the other connects to the load. The fuse is design to carry a certain rated current. If the current flow through the fuse exceeds this rated current, the fuse element overheats, melts, and disconnect the load from the source. This is how a fuse protects the circuit/wiring from overheating and possibly causes a fire. With that in mind, if you tap your power from the "source" side of the fuse, your fog-light wiring would not be protected (i.e. if one of the fog-light wire is dead-shorted to ground, it will literally turn into a heating element until another fuse further upstream blows and takes out a bunch of things). On the other hand if you tap power from the "load" side of the fuse, you are drawing additional current through the fuse element and will likely to blow fuses regularly.



Also, here are a couple more things to consider:
1) Tap power from the 30A fuse instead. Wire used for the 30A circuit is much larger than the one for a 7.5A circuit.
2) Install a new properly sized fuse for the fog lights. Divide the total wattage by 12V will give you the current draw. Use the next larger size fuse to protect the circuit. For example, if you use 35W bulbs, then 2x35/12=5.83, use a 7.5A fuse. Another example if you use 55W bulbs, then 2x55/12=9.17, use a 10A fuse.