Please help with humming cabin noise
Here are some of the work I’ve done to the car:
1. Took the car to Lexus dealer and was told that I had a bad front wheel hub. I decided to purchase the parts and replace both front wheel hubs myself. No change in the cabin noise. Note: I checked before the work, one wheel hub has a slight play and the other 3 were tight.
2. Took the car to another Lexus dealer and was told that all LS430 makes that noise, but later suggested that the motor mounts were bad. Again, I purchased all 3 mounts and did the work myself. No luck, the cabin noise persists.
At this point, I have very little confidence left in the dealer. Looking around on this forum, I found suggestions that the differential can be the culprit, and so I drained and refilled the fluid. The old fluid actually didn’t look too bad and I did not see any metal shavings on the magnetic plug. While the car was on jack stands, I put it in gear and try to locate any knocking or grinding sounds (put a large screw drive tip against the part and put my ear against the handle). Nothing unusual found. The fluid change did not get rid of the cabin noise.
I originally planned to replace the rear wheel hubs next, but with my track record so far, I’m probably replacing the wrong things again. Please help!
If front hubs have replaced, I would seriously look at the rear. Could be a drive shaft U-Joint that's going dry. Stupid question - have you ruled out tires, as you rotate tires does anything change?
Has it gotten worse with time?
Now I’m really reaching, you don’t have a brake hanging up. How’s you MPG? How’s the emergency brake working? Wondering if maybe pulling the rear rotors to check the E-Brakes….
Just thinking out loud.... Keep us posted.
My RX330, I could have sworn I had a tire going bad, it was a front wheel bearing hub.
2001 LS 430 now has 178K on it,
1. Rotate tires - test drive
2. Check gear selector gasket - visual inspection
3. Check drive shaft center support bearing - put car on jack stands and in gear, then listen with stethoscope.
4. Remove rear wheel hubs from car for inspection - I've tried the 6/12 O'clock and 3/9 O'clock rocking test already. Both seemed tight with no play.
Thanks again...
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1. Had all 4 wheel balanced and rotated (tires are around 1 year old). Test drove the car and for the first 1-2 miles, the noise seemed to have significantly lessened. But after a few miles, the noise gradually returned. By the way, NTB guy suggested that the noise could be from a bad strut mount that's transferring vibration from the strut to the car's body.
2. Checked drive shaft center support by unbolting the bearing from the car. The rubber surrounding the bering looked good, and the bearing turned freely without making any noise.
3. Checked shifter gasket/seal from under vehicle. Used compressed air to spray from under the vehicle and tried to listen and feel for leaks into the cabin. None found!
4. Next weekend, I'll remove the rear wheel hubs from the car to check for noise. It's difficult to turn the rear hubs while they are attached to the drive shafts.
5. Thing to try in the future is to replace struts/mounts.
Any other ideas?
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We replaced the tank mounted fuel pump and the humming noise went away.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; Jul 19, 2014 at 09:53 AM.
I wonder what would have happened if you had THEM replace what they analyzed to be wrong, and the problem still existed? I wonder if they REALLY knew what the culprit was, but were giving you a jacked up estimate to replace the 'listed' parts, and never would have replaced them, but merely only replace the rubber isolator on the strut?
How much was the new isolator? How easy was it to fix once the issue was identified? Who found the problem?
I wonder what would have happened if you had THEM replace what they analyzed to be wrong, and the problem still existed? I wonder if they REALLY knew what the culprit was, but were giving you a jacked up estimate to replace the 'listed' parts, and never would have replaced them, but merely only replace the rubber isolator on the strut?
How much was the new isolator? How easy was it to fix once the issue was identified? Who found the problem?
One of the things I tried, to eliminate the humming noise, was to have my tires balanced and rotated at NTB. I talked with the technician there about the noise, and he suggested that it could be caused by a bad strut mount. I decided to replace both sets of rear struts and mounts. Unfortunately, the KYB strut mounts I ordered did not come with new isolators. With my car torn apart on a Sunday, I cannot wait for mail-ordered isolators to come, so I picked up a pair of Monroe strut mounts/isolators ($42 each set) from a local auto parts store.
It was my first DIY on replacing the rear struts, and I did not find any step-by-step instructions for it. The first strut took me over 4 hours – mostly spent on trying to get the strut/spring assembly off of the car. Turns out if you separate the upper control arm ball joint from the axle carrier, you can create enough room to easily remove the strut/spring assembly. The second strut took about 30 minutes to remove.
I'd definitely credit the NTB technician for making the correct diagnosis.
Last edited by rkw77080; Jul 29, 2014 at 10:34 AM.
One of the things I tried, to eliminate the humming noise, was to have my tires balanced and rotated at NTB. I talked with the technician there about the noise, and he suggested that it could be caused by a bad strut mount. I decided to replace both sets of rear struts and mounts. Unfortunately, the KYB strut mounts I ordered did not come with new isolators. With my car torn apart on a Sunday, I cannot wait for mail-ordered isolators to come, so I picked up a pair of Monroe strut mounts/isolators ($42 each set) from a local auto parts store.
It was my first DIY on replacing the rear struts, and I did not find any step-by-step instructions for it. The first strut took me over 4 hours – mostly spent on trying to get the strut/spring assembly off of the car. Turns out if you separate the upper control arm ball joint from the axle carrier, you can create enough room to easily remove the strut/spring assembly. The second strut took about 30 minutes to remove.
I'd definitely credit the NTB technician for making the correct diagnosis.











