I just installed "Pyramid WH8 8-Inch 200 Watt High Power Paper Cone 8 Ohm Subwoofer". It took about 30 minutes. I took off the three top bolts(12mm) on the back seat, popped the two black retainers off, lifted up back shelf, unbolted (10mm) the four retaining bolts, and unplugged speaker.
The new speaker is the same size but it takes a little work to make everything fit correctly. The foam spacer is issue. Very easy to do though. I used some silicone to seal everything. Crimped on wiring connectors, plugged it in and remounted to back deck.

IT COST LESS THAN $14.00! It sounds as good, if not better than stock. This is not for the person who wants to upgrade their system, it is for the people who where perfectly happy with the oem sound.

Now If I could find this kind of price point for the front speakers!!!

Pyramid WH8 8-Inch 200 Watt High Power Paper Cone 8 Ohm Subwoofer

 

Great price. Hope you don't loose the amp. I'm going to replace mine the factory sub to keep the impedance correct. Incorrect impedance (ohm load) can cause the amplifier to overheat and fail. You are running a 8hm speaker. OEM is 16.

 

I have read numerous post on this forum that say it is 12ohm. Where did you find that it is 16ohm?
It seems that people who where having problems where using a 4ohm speaker. Have you read where a lot of people using an 8ohm speaker were blowing their amp?

 

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho....php?p=6773498

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...=666827&page=2

I have not read a lot of threads about people blowing the amp. I just consider it a risk I don't want to take as the amp is vital in the nav system and the whole thing. Generating more heat is always bad on electronics and would naturally lead to premature failure.

 

This thread seems to say it is 12 Ohm. Then again, I seems that everyone is guessing. I don't play my radio very loud, hopefully it will not blow the amp.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...=16+OHM&page=2

 

The thread you listed is from 2010. The ones I listed are from 2011 and 2012. I think the general consensus is that the impedance is between 12 and 16. Nonetheless, it is important factor to consider when replacing a sub. I honestly don't know exactly how the amplifier will react to that aftermarket speaker but I think it is important people know that these speakers are not the same impedance as OEM and it does pose a risk. Even used amps on ebay are $700.00 New they are like 2 grand. Nobody makes a speaker with the OEM impedance except ML.

I spoke with a bunch of shops and they all were trying to sell me aftermarket subs. Most were either 4 or 8 ohm subs. When I asked them about the difference in impedance they all agreed it was not ideal and then tried to pitch aftermarket amps... lol. Maybe it is a conspiracy to sell amps. I just don't want to risk it myself. I hope it does not create any problems for you as well.

 

My OEM sub blew early last year and I replaced it with another OEM unit,which cost around $300 AUD from memory. I measured the impedance on it at the time,and can confirm that it's like nothing else out there.


Justin...

 

And what impedance did it measure at, at the time? I have an 8 ohm that I can put in to my ML system, but I'm quite leery of anything below 12 OHM...

 

It would have absolutely no hesitation in using an 8 ohm sub in the LS, it is very unlikely that an 8ohm rated speaker would overload the amp on a circuit designed for 12-16 ohms. Much more likely for a 4, 2, or .5 ohm speaker to overload that specific circuit on the ML amp so I would not use anything rated nominally lower than 8 ohms. Yes there are actual .5 ohm speakers in some car audio applications (ask me how I know based on my .5 ohm Miata door speakers : ). btw speakers are rated for ohms at a nominal or average frequency - in actual practice the resistance load of any speaker will vary significantly over its frequency range. So in actual practice an 8 ohm rated speaker may be very similar to a 12 or 16 ohm speaker in its average resistance load across its frequency range based on its specific design, size and type of voice coil etc. .

 

Yeah, but when I spoke to a few of the better car audio shops when I did mine all agreed the Mark Levison sub sounded best for the way the system is designed. I waited and found a new one on eBay for $180.00 The cone lasted 10 years on the first one. That is pretty good considering.

 

Damn, my Pyramid just arrived in the mail today, and something told me to look up the post mentioned the install. Somehow I missed this post. So, there is a risk that I'll blow my amp if I install this 8 ohm sub?

 

Todd, its been 3 years since your post, so I hope your still around. If so, has the 8 ohm set up worked?

 

Yes, 8 ohm will work but it may possibly cause the amp to overheat and fail. OEM is between 12 - 16 ohm.

 

Lav, since I already have the single 8 ohm pyramid sub, and it only has a single connection thereby not allowing series wiring within it self, how can I use it? Would I need to add another 8 ohm sub? Maybe that's not as clear as I'd thought; while viewing a few of the higher end subwoofers, I noticed that they had two separate sets of terminals. On one side of the sub was a right and left connection, and the same on the opposite side, thereby allowing series or parallel wiring. The sub I bought for less $20, though it was noted that it would work, only has one set of terminal. Their also made in China, and due to the quality of China's electrical systems, I'm not sure I want to trust messing around with ohms. TTurbo, maybe this helps in understanding my problem.

 

your 8ohm sub will be fine wired normally. Usually when people are talking about wiring in series they are referring to dual 4ohm subs, thus making them an 8ohm load as an end result