So i noticed my temp was climbing to 3/4 to almost fully hot.. i pulled over and popped the hood to see if a hose failed... After i unscrewed the air dam on top to get a better look at the radiator.. i noticed that the driver side fan wasn't blowing, just the passenger.. I tapped at the plug on the motor and it started to spin... I was hoping maybe it was a bad connection and not a seized motor, but on the way home it started to climb again... Dealer asks 250 for the motor itself and i can manage the labor or find someone... Just wondering if there is a cheaper place to find another fan motor... Everywhere i looked referred to dealer..... I also cleaned all the connections once i got home and and rinsed off the radiator and fans good... just not sure if that is going to help any... any suggestions would be great, or if someone had a write up on how to remove the old fan motor and install the new, that would be really helpful...

 

So after cleaning all the connections, checking fluid levels, and checking all of the harness plugs and fan plugs I let the LS430 idle in my driveway for 45 min straight with the a/c on full blast.. Not once did it start to over heat and i saw both fans on and engaged when it looked like they were supposed to... The dealer said for $250 i can have the fan motor overnighted.. But i'm wondering if i should still go ahead and order or just wait and see if it seizes up again.. This was the first time this happened, and i have been meaning to do a radiator flush.. should i just do the flush and go as normal, or do you guys suggest i shell out for the new motor even though it seems to have kicked back on for now... thx

 

2001, I would say iffy choice whether it's just a loose connector, or the fan is really going. If it's a loose connection, it might be coming loose because of the road vibration and such, so leaving idling in driveway won't loosen it. I would say perhaps electrical tape the various connectors, take one quick road trip and see if it overheats agian. If it does, then replace it. Would not gamble with $350 and risk getting the engine burned out.

 

^^^+2 I would replace if your sure that's the problem. Hate to see you mess the engine up over one fan motor or connector. You might far away from home one day and bam overheating on you better safe then sorry.

 

Just to add another possibility to the cause of the fan not turning on... There are thermal switches / sensors that tell the fan's when to turn on. These have been known to go bad sometimes. I'm sure there's a diagnostic procedure to eliminate different components. It may be worth paying for the diagnostic, unless you're able to do it yourself, before buying a new fan assembly.

 

Absolutely change the thermo switch first to see what happens. The switch will more likely cause a problem before the fan motor. I would keep the driving local to be absolutely sure of the problem. Cooking the engine is not reversible.

 

Electric fan motor failure is pretty binary event - it works or it doesn't in most cases - more likely you have switch, sensor or connector problem. Maybe have an experienced mechanic check it out and make a recommendation. Paying the price for an educated second opinion is worth it - cooking the motor is a very bad thing.

Along those lines, I suggest you never leave the car running for more than a minute or two unless you are sitting in it and paying attention to the temp gauge.

 

I agree. You said in your very first post that you tapped it and it started spinning. It can't be "seized up" and then not seized up if that's the case. Overheating is usually a problem that starts out with a seemingly simple fix, but can require more investigation than you might think. Especially when it can't be recreated every single time (i.e. when you let the car sit and nothing happened).

The thermal switch sounds like a very likely candidate. If it isn't that or the fan you need to begin looking into a cooling problem... from coolant obstructions to headgaskets.

 

So today i drove my car as i usually do and didnt have a problem the whole day... Highway was cool and stop and go rush hour was cool.. towards the evening i did notice the car start to have the temp creep up just a bit to the 3/4 hot range when its normally right at or a little under the half line.... I immediatley pulled over and looked to see if the fan wasnt spinning, and it wasnt... with a pvc pipe i keep handy for my hood stand.. i tapped at the fan motor plug right on the motor itself.. and it started right back up.. I pressed hard against it to make sure it had a good connection and during my stop and go traffic on the way home it ran very cool with no problem.. Is this faulty wiring? or connections? autozone tried telling me to buy a temp coolant sensor but i dont think that is right.. Anyone know what the part is everyone is mentioning... thermo switch? or is that the same as the coolant sensor i was told to possibly try.. thanks members

 

Here's the info & diagrams you need to diagnose the fan issue... It's two posts because there are two many pictures for a single post... The diagrams in post #2 are listed in order (7,8,9,10,11)...

LOCATION
Fig. 6: Identifying Cooling Fan System Component Location
Courtesy of TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, U.S.A., INC.

 

Fig. 7: System Diagram
Courtesy of TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, U.S.A., INC.
ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION
1. CHECK COOLING FAN SYSTEM
a. Look at the chart below. Check that when the cooling fan is in the condition on the left, its operation is what is written on the right.
Standard when engine coolant temperature is below 82°C (180°F):
CONDITION AND OPERATION SPECIFICATION
Condition Operation (Fan Speed)
Ignition ON at engine stopping = Not rotating
A/C switch OFF at idle speed = Not rotating
A/C switch ON at idle speed = Rotating (Low speed)
Disconnect ECT sensor connector at idle speed = Rotating (High speed)
If the fan does not operate as specified, proceed to next step.
2. INSPECT COOLING FAN MOTOR
a. Remove the air cleaner inlet No. 1.
b. Disconnect the 2 connectors.
c. Connect the battery and ammeter.
d. Check that the fan rotates smoothly, and then check the amperage on the ammeter.
5. Standard: 9.2 to 11.0 A at 20° C (68° F)
If the result is not as specified, replace the fan motor.
If the fan operates, proceed to the next step.

Fig. 8: Checking Cooling Fan System
Courtesy of TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, U.S.A., INC.
1. INSPECT COOLING FAN ECU WIRE HARNESS
a. Remove the air cleaner inlet No. 1.
b. Disconnect the 2 connectors.
c. Inspect the connector on the wire harness side.
d. Measure the voltage between terminals 1 and 3.
5. Standard: 9 to 14 V
If the result is not as specified, check the fuse, relay and wire harness.
If the result is as specified, replace the fan ECU.

Fig. 9: Measuring Voltage Between Terminals 1 And 3.
Courtesy of TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, U.S.A., INC.
INSPECTION
1. INSPECT RELAY (Marking: FAN)
a. Remove the FAN relay from the FL block
b. Measure the resistance of the relay.
STANDARD SPECIFICATION
Tester Connection Specified Condition
3-5 10 kQ or higher
3-5 Below 1 Q (when battery voltage is applied to terminals 1 and 2)
If the result is not as specified, replace the relay.


Fig. 10: Measuring Resistance Relay
Courtesy of TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, U.S.A., INC.
2. INSPECT ECT SWITCH
a. Measure the resistance of the switch.
STANDARD SPECIFICATION
Temperature Specified Condition
Above 98° C (208° F) Below 1 Q
Below 88° C (190° F) 10 kQ or higher
If the result is not as specified, replace the switch.


Fig. 11: Measuring resistance of switch
Courtesy of TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, U.S.A., INC.

 

JimsGX - excellent info - posts like yours make this forum a wonderful resource for all of us - thanks.

 

How hard is it to remove the fan motor assembly all together ? I notice that the fan motor keeps coming off and on now and you have to keep tapping it to make it stay on.. I notice the temp gauge go up to 3/4 hot back to right under the half mark.. I wonder if i pulled out the assembly, maybe i can make sure all of the connections are good? Also does anyone know if the fan motor wires coming "from" the fan near the magnet can unplug from the unit, or are they connected permantly.. i dont want to pry it off if it isnt supposed to... Thanks alot i really appreciate the help !

 

this link has a pic of the entire radiator, but just to remove the fan assembly, would this be hard to do... thanks
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ent-ls430.html

 

Your fan motor is going out. The bearings and parts are starting to stick together therefore everytime you tap on the motor, it loosens up to spin. I've experienced this situation before. Hope it helps.