Hello everyone, I recently just inherited my grandfathers LS430 and he always took very good care of it and maintained it extremely well so I plan to do the same. The first thing I'm going to do is an oil change with Kirkland 5w30 oil and then after 1-3k miles I am going to start using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 for the next 4 oil changes, changing the oil and filter every 4-4.5k miles. My question to you guys is who do you think makes the best oil filters? I usually just go with OEM and I know that's what my grandpa did but then I started doing research and here's what I found:
Genuine Toyota 90915-YZZD3 : Micron ration 20 Efficiency 50%
BOSCH 3330 & FRAM XG3614 : Micron rating 20 Efficiency 99%
WIX 51348 and 51348xp : Micron rating 21 Efficient 99% (at 23 or 35 Microns not sure)
FRAM PH3614 : Micron rating 20 Efficiency 95%-96%

This being said it seems like BOSCH as well as FRAM's XG filters do the best due to having just as low of a micron rating as OEM, yet being 49% more efficient.
What do you guys think?

Also if there are any other filters you think are better or are larger overall for more filtration I would love to know what they are.

Thank you all!

 

Beyond the impressive specs of the Fram XG series, is the fact they can be run multiple OCIs, reducing cost and saving time.

I have run them out past 20k miles numerous times and they hold up beautifully. And impressively, in the 1MZ-FE engine, with it’s stupid filter location immediately under the B2 exhaust header, Fram XG is the only filter I’ve found that will not cook and disable the anti-drain back valve on a longer full synthetic OCI. I’ve had that problem with factory Toyota filters, going 7,500 miles. The Fram will do that three times and not fail. Impressive. Another note, op - you can oversize the 3614 easily, to the Fram 3600, for some added filtration capacity and oil capacity. I do that routinely. The other specs are the same besides height.

I am happy with Toyota filters much of the time. But for a tough application, or were you really care enough to send the very best, the Fram XG Ultra line does deliver as promised.

 

Get an oem filter from a lexus dealer and changed it every 5000-7500 with a full synthetic and its all you need.

 

Did you see what "ORO" said? Seems like they BOSCH and FRAM XG work better. And is everyone missing the fact that the BOSCH and FRAM XG filters are almost twice as efficient?
Also I always change my oil at 5k miles if not before, and every time I change the filter, 6.50 for a filter and 25$ for oil is not much compared to engine problems, at least imo

 

I saw what he said but I have owned 430's since they first came out I currently have 3 parked in my driveway. I am just saying from personal experience OEM filter is the way to go almost always OEM parts are the way to go with these cars.

 

For sure, thank you. Have you ever tried another filter or always just used OEM?
And I was also thinking about for the "Restore and Protect Valvoline oil", when I watched a test he opened the filter up after 500 miles and it was so dirty that it was clogged

 

I have used mobile 1, bosch, amsoil, and napa filters. I personally feel the OEM works best I plan on running a oem filter with my supercharger set up, thats how confident I feel in the oem filter.

 

sweet. thank you

 

Some people know everything, and without ever having to study the issues or ever go learn, test, or cut open a filter or do laboratory analysis. They know way better than those of us who actually do those things. Just let them be…

For the record, Toyota filters are perfectly fine for reliability if you change them early, but not up to demanding situations like the MZ-FE engine. Their filtration rate and beta ratio are so-so; but they don’t fail. The fact of the matter is the beta ratio of the filter can be tested, an exact laboratory value established, and there’s no need to “guess” about this stuff or take anyone’s word on it. Many tests show the beta ratio (basic measurement of how finely it filters) for Toyota filters is solidly in the “OK” camp, not any better. So they are OK, but certainly not “very good” or “among the best” among oil filters. I use them on a Cub Cadet zero-turn mower and a Kubota tractor we have, but not my cars that I care about. The two issues with Toyota filters is that they have a poor beta ratio, and the silicone in the ADB valve is not high-grade - which is not an issue unless you are doing long drain intervals OR in a high-heat application. But they are cheap (this should be a clue as to quality - right there) and easily available.

OEM is often good on Toyota parts, but “it’s always good” is a very uninformed approach. I can start ticking off on a hand all the failed and disastrous Aisin, Denso, etc. parts failures over the last few decades that have resulted in massive recalls, destroyed engines, and real headaches. They aren’t god-like, magical, or in most cases any better than other OE parts makers like AC Delco, Delphi, Gates, Dayco, GMB, Tokyo Roki, ZF, TRW, Nissen, etc.

I am running VRP in two cars right now as an experiment; one a long-time oil burner because of coked rings and clogged drain back holes (Isuzu 6VE1 engine). Planning to pull the filter on one of them to cut-open soon, it’s been 1,500 miles or so. I’ll try to post pics and results, let you see if you are interested.

 

If you choose to go OEM, there’s a holiday sale going on right now and the cheapest I’ve found are from Bell Lexus (AZ) and Treasure Coast Lexus (FL).

With FREE Shipping and NO Sales Tax, you can’t beat their prices as my local sales tax is over 10%.

I usually shop at Bell Lexus, as they’re closest to me, but have found Treasure Coast to be a few cents cheaper — so for more expensive OEM items, I might have to go with Treasure Coast and risk the shipping from further away to save a few bucks. Haven’t decided yet.

Product Details | SimplePart

Product Details | SimplePart

 

I've had restore and protect in my 2005 LS430/167k miles for about 2000 miles now. I don't check filter, etc., but the oil is not that dirty based on dipstick. Just normsl darkening. Suggests the engine is fairly clean. Until a year or so ago I used conventional 5w-30 every 6-7 months or so: 5k miles when car was driven more, more like 3k now. I started using syn just because (might have less wear, maybe...). I used whatever filters (Jiffy lube, etc. until i stopped going there EVER). Now I use Lexus/Toyota filter. The R&P "feels" good, whether because of some cleaning or just because it is a synthetic. My car is aging, but the drivetrain is smoother and quieter than ever, unless placebo affect... It has never consumed any noticeable oil. I could probably use good conventional 5w30 and have the engine last another 20 years, but with increased short trips in cold weather, I do like synthetic, and R&P seems really good in cars that don't claim to need Dexos spec oil, even if no cleaning needed

 

Yes owning my own shop means I have no experience with parts from all manufacturers and seeing the rate at which there is defects. There is no need to cut open filters of oem cars unless there is metal in the oil. Cutting open filters is for performance cars that are raced not DD. There are a ton of people with high hp uz engines running oem filters.

 

thank you!

 

Generally, I use WIX products in all 4 of my cars. Just picked up a 51348 master pack (12) for my '03 430 for $50. Mobil1 synthetic oil and Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

Fram is just as good as OEM.


























Just kidding. I would never use a Fram not even on a lawnmower