Mmmm. Creamy goodness for my 3UZ (imaginw in Homer Simpson voice). :-)

 

Didnt read through the whole thread but i've always used mobile 1 high mileage 20k full synthetic with a mobile 1 filter IF the oem lexus oil filter isnt available. It just so happens my local walmart was selling both so i stocked up on the genuine lexus oil filters. I change every 5k.

 

The YZZD3 has more filtration media by about 50% versus any other brand. I've cut a few open and measured. It's about 225sq in total. It's not even a competition. The ADV is silicone and the outer ring gasket is rubber.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/toyota-oil-filter-made-in-thailand-vs-the-competition.123608/

 

Ignorance is bliss I guess; no need to ever test and learn! Good for you, don’t ever change.

 

Someone explain why the smaller the particle trapped the better, are there microscopic bits floating around in your oil that are damaging the engine?

 

Check out motor oil geek on YouTube. He's a tribologist. He can explain the micron particle science well.

TL;DR use the OE filter, change every 5k, and don't worry about it.

 

Yes, pretty much. Some builders show particles down and even below 10 microns will do damage in rings and bearings. So you have to look at the filter rating, expressed as a percent off efficiency of trapping a certain size. The standard ATSM test is at 20 microns, and an engineering “beta ratio” established based on efficiency there - what percentage of particles are actually trapped by the filter and how many get by. Toyota media typically tests out at a beta ratio yielding 80% efficiency at 20 microns. That’s not good, because it means it’s really bad at catching even smaller particles. PureOne, Fram Ultra, etc. will be approaching 99+% at 20 microns, and very good at smaller particles down to 5 microns.

This is from an old BITOG thread on this, data is from Purolator (and old, c.2010), but it lays it out how the ineffeciency grows once you get below 20 microns. This data is for a PureOne of that time, which I used to use then and along with Fram Ultra. It is stating the PureOne is B1000 at 20 microns, vs 95% for a “good” filter. B1000 means 99.9% efficient. “beta ratio” is expressed as partical count upstream/particle count downstream of filter. Thus “B50” = 50/1, or .02 (2%). 2% of the particles downstream mean the filter is 98% efficient at that point. B1000 means 1,000 particles upstream, one downstream (near perfect). So 1/1000 = 0.1%, or 99.9% efficient. Hope that helps explain “Beta Ratio” as it’s a weird unique thing to filtration engineering AFAIK.

So, this is why I use a Toyota filter on OPE or as a “rock catcher” filter when I do a cleaning cycle for a few thousand miles on a car. For a full engine oil cycle, I use something like a PureOne or FramUltra to prevent damage. This is also why, partly, we have an ‘02 ES with 340k miles on it that runs like new and burns NO oil in 7.5k oil change intervals. I’ve been using high-efficiency filters on it.

 

You are such a clown lol

 

A healthy dose of truth is uncomfortable to some. I get it.

For the rest of us, we will use science and facts and learn together. Tag along if you’d like; everyone is welcome!

 

All my cars run flawlessly some with very high mileage. I find it difficult to mess with success.

 

I make my own oil filters out of rolls of toilet paper shoved into a tupperware roughly the same size as the oem one. My car is in the shop as we speak...totally unrelated im sure.

All jokes aside. It seems like theres mutiple great options for our cars. But oem wont steer you wrong but maybe isnt the end all be all in terms of best all out performance.

 

And yet many LS400s and LS430s manage hundreds of thousands of miles using oil and filters that meet the requirements in the owners manual, yet may not be as good as "Superior" Brand products.

I am on several car and motorcycle forums and Facebook groups and these oil & filter threads only seem to happen amongst the US members.
Can anyone explain to me why you seem so focussed on the oil & filter when the coolant and brake fluid are just as important, if not more important?
I have never seen a forum discussion on the benefits of Castrol DOT4 vs LiquiMoly DOT4 and yet people regularly argue that XYZ brand engine oil is THE BEST, and everyone has a different opinion on which brand.

I have always put oil in my vehicles that meets or exceeds the specs in the owners manual, and I use oil filters that are specified for their engines, and I have never had an oil related problem.
I don't care what the brand is and never will, and somehow my vehicles keep on working regardless and are only replaced because of other problems, mostly age/wear (non-engine) related.

 

Can you share the labs you did and all the information you gathered from cutting open filters? I could be wrong please share your research I would love to learn.

If all those other filters are garbage why can people in 3rd world countries keep the cars running with minimal oil changes sometimes its not even changed.

 

Lucky man. I always wanted to study tribbles; they wouldn't let me.

 

Focused om oil and oil filter so much because you change these the most, everything else you change after +20,000 miles. Obviously you still have to change all your other fluids and use good fluids, but you dont change the others as much as the oil and filter for your engine