No A/C. Brought to place today that only does A/C and radiators, only. Old school place that actually rebuilds antique radiators, been around at least 50 years (his father started it). He said the coolant was not out. He'd have to do a formal diagnostic, but said compressor was not turning on. He does not replace sensors or open up the dash, but said he would check if the compressor is getting voltage when the A/C is supposed to be on, in which case the problem is compressor. His tool was broken today and it's a Saturday so he did not go beyond a visual today, saying the compressor does not engage.

What is a fair price range for a new, installed compressor? (He said he would not do the compressor alone, not sure if the coil also goes with it? He said best to replace both, if it is the compressor.) Sorry if not getting every detail, but overall, fair price range for installed compressor and related parts?. He warned we it would not be cheap, like $1k-$2k but said I'd need to call during week for him to look up a more exact price.

BTW, I have an Ultra with the rear A/C. I am guessing this does not affect the repair, assuming it is not a problem with the rear line or the parts in the trunk.

 

Very rare the coil operating the compressor clutch is bad. So he only had 1 meter in his shop. Even a test light would show voltage there. If you can get to the connector just test it yourself. Don't think there is any way to tell how much coolant is there without it being on. Also if it is low coolant there could be a safety switch preventing clutch from activating. Did you notice air getting real cold before it quit? Just my thoughts.

 

Not quite following you, AlexTV. I did follow that low coolant might be the issue itself. Not quite sure if you are saying that the controller is unlikely to be bad. The last 2 years I had occassions where 1 side of car (the right) did not cool down on occasion. Not a blenmd door thing. But the A/C worked broadly fine last summer. This year it is out. So I thought coolant was low. The guy today said there was some, not sure how, I am looking for honesty in diagnosis and a worst case price, which I am assuming is the compressor (hoping for something cheaper).

I just got quoted $1100 to install a brand new Denso OE. At a Firestone chain, but they did my alternator fine in past. That is better than I feared, so I might start down the diagnostic tree with them, with this as a possible outcome. I remember my parents A/C on their LS400 years ago, and it was worse, over 2k, but that was at a dealer. I'll probably get a dealer quote just for kicks.

 

No the clutch is in where the pulley is and the coil inside the clutch that when energizes activates the clutch is what I was referring to that rarely goes bad. The clutch assembly is generally also replaceable without compressor. See new compressors on ebay for LS430 with rear ac for $299. If in your car and turn switch just to ignition without starting do you hear a click and if so that is clutch engaging but if coolant low circuit could cut that off once started.

 

$299 on ebay for a new compressors. Sounds like you are trouble in the long run. If you really want to get it fix, I would suggest to go with Lexus/Toyota part unless you are not planning to keep the car for long. AC is always tricky, could be compressor, would be condenser or any leak in between. I also has a UL, not sure the rear AC will make it more difficult. Good luck

 

Don't buy compressors/hard parts off ebay.

Rockauto has the Denso compressor for ~$500. Assuming you mean "Refrigerant" not "Coolant." Don't put coolant in your A/C system.

 

Yes, of course... quick typing word error!

 

The ebay reference was just to give the lowest price. Call the Lexus parts dept and ask price of there rebuilt. At this point it could be anything and if it were me I would carry it to a shop that does ac work and get an accurate diagnosis. Did you do the test of turning ignition on and hear click as that will tell a lot?