I’m planning on doing a maintenance tune-up. Along with everything below, I’ll be replacing the fuel filter, cabin filter and thermostat.


Spark plugs

Which spark plugs are you guys running?

I’m contemplating between:

NGK Iridium IX - BKR6EIX @ $9.49
NGK Laser Iridium - FR6T11 $ $11.99

Or is there a better option?

Also, do you guys use anti-seize on the threads since they’re going into an aluminum block? (I ways that was dangerous since it’s easier to over-torque them).


Air Filter

I’ll be throwing in an OEM filter (somehow never liked the concept of the fancy oil coated filters).


Oil

Which brand are you guys running?

Given the higher mileage (almost 230k), should I throw in something thicker than the prescribed 5w30? Or stick with the OEM 5w30, and replace one of the quarts of oil with Lucas Oil (pure petroleum)?

Also, are you guys running oil catch cans to keep the intake clean? (I run one on my Suburban, and it catches a ton of oil that would otherwise blow right into the throttle body).


Other fluids

I’ll check the PS fluid to see how dark it is, and flush it with a turkey baster method if it looks dark. Brake fluid getting changed.

Should I drain/fill the transmission fluid? (Not complete flush)

Also, should I drain/fill the differential fluid?

Thank you for reading this far… and thanks in advance for any insight.

(Btw I did browse through the FAQ; although very informative, somehow I didn’t see this info in there).

 

I'm using the NGK BKR6EIX-11
I don't apply anti-seize. This is debated with frequency across many forums. I've not done it on the cars we've had.

OEM Denso air filter.

Mobil 1 5-30 oil. If the engine is still tight and you don't notice any symptoms on the plugs or engine oil consumption the 5-30 is fine.

The others fluids you mention doing are .
Do a drain of the ATF and refill at what comes out goes back in.
Yes do the differential fluid too.

 

Transmission 48mo
Power Steering 48mo
Differential 48mo
Brakes 24mo
Coolant 24mo

As best as I could guess from the owners manual. The way it's laid out is weird with their intervals of "minor" and "major" service. I had to count the # of months manually instead of just having a QRF to tell me.

If you don't know the last time the fluids were changed on the car, it's my personal prerogative to just change them and have peace of mind knowing it was actually done. I do this for every new car I buy unless I have records of the last time it was performed.

Drain & fill is usually fine unless the fluid is particularly foul, then a flush may be pertinent. Though that would indicate accelerated wear of that particular item and dirty fluid may be the only thing keeping the transmission from slipping if it's really bad.

My car has never burned a drop of oil without a catch can, so as far as I'm aware, when the engine is operating healthily it's not necessary. I've never seen people running stock engines talk about catch cans - though obviously if you're modifying the engine that's a different story.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...l#post10411641

This is a pretty good list encompassing most of the common gremlins.

 

How many quarts of trans fluid can I expect to drain/refill if I'm not doing a complete flush? Two quarts would be enough to purchase?

Also, the Toyota type T-IV fluid is identical to Mobil1 3309... correct?

 

Regarding brake fluid, I understand some people use DOT 4 (given its more hygroscopic), but it also breaks down faster, meaning it doesn't maintain it's higher boiler point as long as DOT 3, so it would need to be replaced more often (even if marginally).

Is anyone using DOT 5.1?

I stumbled upon this interchangeability chart, as well as a compatibility chart from Motul, both showing that DOT 5.1 might be the new winner for brake fluid?

http://snctuning.com/store/product/i...553&make=LEXUS

 

Buy 3 Qts just in case.
If you'd like to expedite the process you can evacuate ATF via the lines running through the cooler at the bottom of the radiator. Plenty of info on this process here in the forum.
Yes, Mobil 3309 is T-IV.

 

This is the way I would do it. It's faster and ya get more out without flushing it (which is not good) and your not mixing old with new fluid. Plus your not opening up the pan which will avoid future leaks maybe. This way you'd have to buy alot more then 2 quarts.

 

So the consensus is to use synthetic oil for the differential, and conventional (3309) in the trans?

Is anyone using Valvoline MaxLife (or any other synthetic fluid) in their trans?

 

Pay close attention from 35:00 to the end, especially 39:15.
John's Youtube channel, Weber Auto, is a wealth of information.

 

Wow that video was incredibly informative. Its baffling how fluid manufacturers are allowed to sell fluids, which are essentially bait and switch products!

The laugh at 38:40 when he clarifies how the Valvoline MaxLife has absolutely no licenses for the 24 different fluid compatibilities listed on the back of the bottle really captures the ridiculousness.

Thanks for posting that and reaffirming the Toyota type T-IV (aka Mobil1 3309) as the one and only trans fluid to use in the LS400.

 

So, does the above mentioned logic regarding trans fluid apply to brake fluid?

Many people are using DOT 4 brake fluid instead of the OEM fluid (DOT 3)... and now DOT 5.1 is interchangeable with DOT 3 and DOT 4... or is it really?

 

For brake fluid use what is easy to obtain. Dot 3 is still fine for the type of driving these cars usually see.

As Brad mentions Mobil 3309 is good. If buying from the Toyota dealer you can ask for a case quantity discount. If this is your only Toyota car then buy what is necessary.

I've used Mobil 1 75-90 in the differential.

 

It actually makes a lot of sense when you look past the labeling and think about it rationally.
Marketing gone awry!!!

 

The DOT 5.1 seems just as available as as the DOT 3, and for pretty much the same price when purchased online.

So, if there is no true benefit to upgrading brake fluid, why do so many people feel compelled to upgrade to DOT 4... and by that logic, why not just upgrade to the (arguably) even better fluid (DOT 5.1).

Indeed I won't be racing the car, nor doing any threshold braking while cutting up the canyons, but I do live in a city with notoriously steep hills (although still don't imagine I'd be reaching the boiling point of DOT 3 since this type of braking would be done on occasion)...

A more important long term concern is the possibility of internal corrosion of the steel brake lines, and wondering if there is any benefit of helping to prevent that by use of DOT 5.1?

 

Ok, so doing little more research... DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are all glycol based (therefore interchangeable), while DOT 5 is silicone based (therefore doesn't remove paint, hence more commonly used in classic cars to reduce risk of damaging paint), and so DOT 5 is NOT compatible.

Just for comparison here are the boiling points of all of them:



So although DOT 5.1 has significantly higher boiling points than DOT 3 and even DOT 4, that being said I don't imagine maxing out the boiling point from racing or heavy towing, so seems like DOT 3 would be fine after all...

However, given that DOT 3 will contain the most water, it seems like DOT 5.1 (having least water) would indeed provide some benefit to help prevent internal corrosion of the brake lines (even if ever so marginal), but this benefit would become even more marginal (if not non existent) if one is diligent about changing out the fluid on time (every 30k miles or 36 months - whichever comes sooner).

Does that sound right?