Rear License Plate Bolt SEIZED!
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Rear License Plate Bolt SEIZED!
Guys, I am seeking your ideas on how to remove a seized license plate bolt from the trunk plate receptacle on my '97 LS400. I have tried soaking it with WD40...used a long handle screwdriver for extra torque, but no go. Short of drilling it out, are there any other tips for freeing it up? The nut is encased into the truck receptacle and I do not think it is robust enough to hammer on or apply heat. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, how did you resolve it?
Thank-you in advance.
Thank-you in advance.
#2
Common problem I'm afraid. Drill and tap is the solution, 6 MM machine thread.
The New RX started using a nylon plastic insert in 2016...as GM has used forever...
The New RX started using a nylon plastic insert in 2016...as GM has used forever...
#3
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
Don't hammer it. Screw extractor bits. I've also ground flats on each side of the screw head so that an adjustable wrench or locking pliers (Vise Grip) can be used. If this is a phillips/cross slot head in there drilling is easy because it is centered. I find that when I begin drilling the bit catches on and spins the screw that it can be backed out. Not always.
My order of attempts:
1. Swearing
2. Locking pliers.
3. Swearing
4. Pray that the drill doesn't wander-slip
5. Drilling a 3/16" should be safe size to not damage the threads on the lid. A #11 to follow through and the screw should be deteriorated enough afterwards that you can chase the threads with a tap.
6. Repent for all the swearing
7. Drinking Scotch and wondering why an anti-seize wasn't used.
On the re-install use anti-seize or a stainless steel type of fastener M6x1.
My order of attempts:
1. Swearing
2. Locking pliers.
3. Swearing
4. Pray that the drill doesn't wander-slip
5. Drilling a 3/16" should be safe size to not damage the threads on the lid. A #11 to follow through and the screw should be deteriorated enough afterwards that you can chase the threads with a tap.
6. Repent for all the swearing
7. Drinking Scotch and wondering why an anti-seize wasn't used.
On the re-install use anti-seize or a stainless steel type of fastener M6x1.
Last edited by RA40; 01-26-18 at 04:31 PM.
#4
Pole Position
Guys, I am seeking your ideas on how to remove a seized license plate bolt from the trunk plate receptacle on my '97 LS400. I have tried soaking it with WD40...used a long handle screwdriver for extra torque, but no go. Short of drilling it out, are there any other tips for freeing it up? The nut is encased into the truck receptacle and I do not think it is robust enough to hammer on or apply heat. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, how did you resolve it?
Thank-you in advance.
Thank-you in advance.
Csn you provide image of offending fastener and work area?
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
#6
Pole Position
#7
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
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#8
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Don't hammer it. Screw extractor bits. I've also ground flats on each side of the screw head so that an adjustable wrench or locking pliers (Vise Grip) can be used. If this is a phillips/cross slot head in there drilling is easy because it is centered. I find that when I begin drilling the bit catches on and spins the screw that it can be backed out. Not always.
My order of attempts:
1. Swearing
2. Locking pliers.
3. Swearing
4. Pray that the drill doesn't wander-slip
5. Drilling a 3/16" should be safe size to not damage the threads on the lid. A #11 to follow through and the screw should be deteriorated enough afterwards that you can chase the threads with a tap.
6. Repent for all the swearing
7. Drinking Scotch and wondering why an anti-seize wasn't used.
On the re-install use anti-seize or a stainless steel type of fastener M6x1.
My order of attempts:
1. Swearing
2. Locking pliers.
3. Swearing
4. Pray that the drill doesn't wander-slip
5. Drilling a 3/16" should be safe size to not damage the threads on the lid. A #11 to follow through and the screw should be deteriorated enough afterwards that you can chase the threads with a tap.
6. Repent for all the swearing
7. Drinking Scotch and wondering why an anti-seize wasn't used.
On the re-install use anti-seize or a stainless steel type of fastener M6x1.
#10
Racer
If it snaps, you can try buying a left handed drill bit and drilling directly into it. I was successful in removing some snapped intake manifold studs that were below flush with the part and it was able to be extracted that way.
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2008GS (01-30-18)
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