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My 99 does 400 rpm idling in drive and sometimes it can be a problem.
In the summer heat in Phoenix I get battery lights / voltage drop (~10.5V) issues. No such issues in neutral/park, 700rpm (~13.5V), where I wish it would stay while in drive.
Also, again at idle in drive 400rpm there is a slight yet noticeable vibration and rumble throughout the chassis, low rpm harmonics... Up at 700rpm its smooth and quiet as new.
my 1996 lexus ls 400 is throwing misfire codes and system running lean also the car is missing badly burning fuel and smoking horribly i have no idea what this issue is we have replaced the tps / the sparkplugs and wires as well as the coolant temp sensor the code also is random misfire all 8 cylinders i am at the end of my rope with this car could it be the o2 sensors?
my 1996 lexus ls 400 is throwing misfire codes and system running lean also the car is missing badly burning fuel and smoking horribly i have no idea what this issue is we have replaced the tps / the sparkplugs and wires as well as the coolant temp sensor the code also is random misfire all 8 cylinders i am at the end of my rope with this car could it be the o2 sensors?
Hi ... my gut feeling would be to check the ECU ( I tend to call it an ECM ) ... this is the computer box that controls the engine ( located behind the glove box if I am not mistaken ) ... at this stage of life, the capacitors inside the ECM tend to break down and begin to leak onto the circuit board ... thus causing weird problems exactly as you are describing. There is much discussion about this topic ... and there are people who rebuild these electronic units really well .... I know I that need to do mine and the last time I looked it was about $300 bucks or so to do this job ....
From what I have read, it should be very easy to remove the ECU yourself and send it in to a rebuilder ..... also ... I have read that it is possible to pull the top cover of the ECU off and take a look inside to see what is really going on ... any capacitors that are leaking should be quite obvious ..... there should be photos elsewhere here on this forum that show what to look for .. .. ..
I hope this helps ... and I hope your LS is back on the road again quickly and running well once again .....
The drawing below may help you to know how 2 larger holes are connected to 8 injectors to send air. Sorry that non related parts are explained only in Japanese.
Yamae shared a link to a Japanese language website providing images and technique for cleaning injector air mix paths.
Air mix coverplate removed "Drive Joy" air mix path cleaner inserted into one of two large air mix path holes.. ..and the second large hole
One of the weaknesses of the 1UZ-FE engine equipped with VVT-i is low idling and instability. To make matters worse, this condition causes abnormal AT shifts and causes a docking start problem. Some people said that the AT was judged to be bad, and they replaced it but did not fix it.
There is no particular problem for several years from the new car, but since there is no idle port and idle control is performed only with the throttle valve, the area around this valve and the air assist system are contaminated with carbon etc., and the ECU can be controlled. If it goes out of the category, it will be out of range, and the idling will drop and be disturbed immediately. In particular, the air assist system under the lid fixed with two + screws, which is shown near the center of this photo, gets dirty, and when it reaches the injector, the idling is disturbed and the engine buzzes. It also becomes. If you do not clean this area as well as the throttle body, the engine will not be in good condition. Recently, I tried cleaning my car for the first time in a long time, but I'm feeling better.
When you remove the lid, you can see two thick holes and nine small holes like this. Below the nine holes is the throttle body, and the air weighed through these holes is taken in. The larger hole on the left is connected to the four injectors in the right bank, and air is sent to the injector's air assist port. The large hole on the right is for the left bank.
This photo shows the engine conditioner being injected by inserting the nozzle as far as possible into the hole on the left side.
After warming up the engine, it is sprayed while idling, but since the engine speed slows down, it is necessary to spray with the right hand and control the slot link with the left hand so that the engine does not stop. Sometimes it is effective to blow this hole with an air compressor. The point is that the carbon that is clogged in the system is forcibly pushed into the cylinder. If the engine is very dirty, one can may not be enough.
Do the same on the right side as well. The solvent I use is Drive Joy's engine conditioner for EFI cars, but be aware that using a strange one can deteriorate the plastic of the injector.
The link I've introduced is about an American LS400 owner who was suffering from this problem, but there were a number of people who were in trouble, and I was very happy to help.
I first cleaned this line almost 10 years ago, but since then, my neighbor Celsior owner has been having trouble with the same problem, and I've been asked to help him or the car shop I'm in and out of. I was allowed to do this work several times. With the exception of one car, not only was the idling stable and the 750 rpm was perfect, but the car was in very good condition, especially the acceleration immediately after decelerating to the point of stopping was very smooth and pleased. .. For one, it was useless to use 2 cans + a compressor, so it was necessary to remove the injector and clean it with ultrasonic waves. This owner was a person who used regular gasoline.
If you are having trouble with the following symptoms, not only the throttle body was cleaned, but also the air assist system was cleaned. As I have seen people who were surprised at the improvement, I should have posted this earlier in Japan as well.
● Low idling
● Unstable idling
● Abnormal
acceleration after deceleration just before stopping (Doccan start) Even if you try to accelerate after a large deceleration at a tight corner, the speed does not increase and you feel that the gears are not connected. After that, if you have a symptom of sudden acceleration, it is recommended that you clean this area as well as the throttle body. After cleaning, it is necessary to remove the negative terminal of the battery, erase the learning data up to that point, and relearn. By the way, about half of the cars I've done so far had to apply a pressure of about 2 kg / square cm (28 PSI) with an air compressor. This is because the negative pressure of the intake manifold alone may not be enough to remove the carbon dirt that has clogged the air assist port of the injector.
Also, when the engine is stopped, there is a risk of causing a liquid hammer phenomenon, so be sure to do it in the idling state.
Sounds like your injector's lower part is badly clogged. The Lower part means the path for the air to go through indicated by arrows. In order to clean the paths of 8, you need to use at least a can of carbon cleaner and a compressor applying to those 2 larger holes that are connected to 8 injectors air mix paths.
Depending on the clogging level, you sometimes need to clean injectors professionally using a ultra sonic cleaning machine. I also must add that any fuel treatment is not effective to clean those air mix paths because there goes only the air not the gasoline.
I just cleaned mine today for the every 2 year smog check.Hard to do with 6 inch spray nozzle to air mix path.So I ordered 2 50 inch spray can straws from ebay,should be awesome!!ORDER DATEMay 08, 2021 ORDER TOTALUS $12.92 2-Count FS250 FlexStraw Aerosol Can Replacement Neon Green 50" Party Tableware
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05-26-18, 06:36 PM
need help
